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Austrian Wines Well Worth Pursuing

By Darryl Beeson

The wine world is watching Austria. Most especially, they watch a particular grape. Grüner Veltliner (nick-named “Gru-vee”) is the World’s hottest new white wine, produced only in small quantities from Austria. The grape shot to fame following a tasting held in the UK conducted by Masters of Wine (MW) Jancis Robinson and Tim Atkin. Austria’s leading Grüner Veltliners and Chardonnays were countered against top Chardonnays from around the world, important white Burgundies. Judges voted the Austrian wines into seven of the top 10 places. The Rieslings are great as well.

These wines may be difficult to find in American retail wine shops. Inquire, though, and be patient. To learn more, visit the US importer’s website with links to specific producers at www.vindivino.com.

Schlumber Brut “Cuvee Klimt” Austria NV
Price       $25
Rating 90
A complex, racy nose with charming mineral influence, then there are dry creamy flavors of apple and crisp, earthy white fruit.

Kracher Pinot Gris “Illmitz”, Burgenland, Austria 2003
Price       $15
Rating 91
This softly complex white is almost oily on the palate with firm, mineral in the long finish. This focused wine is extremely dry.
The vineyards are located on the eastern most portion of Austria on the border with Hungary, adjacent to the eastern bank of Lake Neusiedl. The climate is hot and dry during the summer. The wines derive a certain focus from the weather.

Wieninger Grüner Veltliner, Wiener (Vienna) 2003
Price       $16
Rating 93
The exceedingly dry sip paints the palate with subtle spice and lemon peel zest.

Loimer “Lois” Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria 2003
Price       $13
Rating 91
The nose offers a citrus sherbet lilt. The sip refreshes with complex herbal, citrus peel and interesting mineral in the medium length.

Loimer Riesling, Kamptal, Austria 2003
Price       $18
Rating 92
All of the grapes are estate grown. The nose offers charming apricot blossom and apple. The sip shows oily complexity of lemon peel zest, racy apple and limestone like mineral.

Rudi Pichler Grüner Veltliner Wachau, Austria 2003
Price       $25
Rating 91
There is delicate citrus and apple within the nose. The sip is all about subtle as well. Hints of apple, lemon peel, laced with firm mineral.

Prager Riesling “Kaiserberg Vineyard” Wachau, Austria 2003
Price       $50
Rating 95
Rich, complex flavors of dried apricot, dried apple and racy citrus, the sip paints the palate and lingers with a great length.

Prager Grüner Veltliner “Achleiten Vineyard” Wachau, Austria 1999
Price       $45
Rating 93
Bright lemon, dried tropical fruit, and an exciting array of fruit flavors are all in the sip. This library vintage is still available in the marketplace and is aging nicely and will continue to do so.

Franz Hirtzberger “Rotes Tor Vineyard” Grüner Veltliner Wachau, Austria 200
Price       $30
Rating 94
Rich and complex with herb, spice apple, and citrus zest, there are round flavors of ripe honeydew melon and a touch of Crenshaw melon.

Franz Hirtzberger Riesling “Singerriedle Vineyard” Wachau, Austria 2003
Price       $75
Rating 97
The sip explodes with zesty flavors, not shy this white wine. Things begin with dried mango, limestone, dried apple, brown spice and citrus peel/floral.

 
Kracher Auslese Burgenland, Austria 2003
Price       $25 (375ml)
Rating 91
Lots of raisin, dried tropical fruit in an oily, complex mélange. The blend is primarily Chardonnay.

Kracher TBA “Number Six” Burgenland, Austria 2001
Price       $88 (375ml)
Rating 94
The blend is primarily Chardonnay. Raisins and complex spice, dried tropical fruit, dried plum, cocoa powder and lots of other excitement are in this beautiful wine.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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