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Gunder Wonder- Great Rheinhessen Wine

by Darryl Beeson

In 1890 the German banker Carl Gunderloch purchased the "Gunderloch" manor house in Nackenheim. He also purchased property in the Rothenberg and Engelsberg vineyards which still constitutes the nucleus of the Gunderloch estate. As the story goes, he used to trek from Gundersblum, his place of birth, to his bank in Mainz. On these daily journeys he carefully observed how the sun played off the hills along the Rhein Terrace. Based on these observations he purchased vineyard property that appeared to collect sunlight most efficiently. Today the estate, as a result of these shrewd acquisitions, owns unquestionably the best vineyards in Nackenheim.

Gunderloch is situated in the town of Nackenheim, close to the Rhine River in the south east of Frankfurt. Gunderloch is situated in the town of Nackenheim, close to the Rhine River in the south east of Frankfurt. Rothenberg means in English "red hill". Red stands for the color of the soil and hill describes the steep slopes facing to the river Rhine. All vineyards are entirely situated at the banks of the river. The proximity to the river, the steep slope and the red slate give our Rothenberg vineyard a perfect microclimate for the Riesling grape. Find out more at www.gunderloch.de.

Gunderloch Estate Riesling Dry, 2003
Price $16.99
Rating 91
Clean aromas of mineral and apple taffy, and then there mineral driven flavors (the vineyards are mainly red slate) of apple, grapefruit juice and interesting floral notes.

Gunderloch Riesling NIERSTEIN PETTENTHAL, 2003
Price $19.99
WOW Rating 92
Clean aromas of mineral and apple blossom, followed by flavors of subtle green apple, mineral, citrus elements, all wrapped within gentle floral. This wine is not yet in the American market, but should be in the future. “The Nierstein Pettenthal tends to be more floral, while the Nackenheim Rothenberg tends to be more mineral by nature,” explains assistant winemaker Charlotte Hess. “The Nackenheim Rothenberg is slower to develop and has a bit more acidity.”

Gunderloch Riesling NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG, 2003
Price $35
Rating 93
Deep mineral aromas with subtle, roasted nut nuances are found in the nose. The mouth shows green apple, nutty nougat, bright lemon, soft floral, all within the mineral statement within the long length. The producers consider this to be their finest vineyard. “The Nackenheim Rothenberg tends to be more mineral by nature,” explains assistant winemaker Charlotte Hess. “The Nackenheim Rothenberg is slower to develop and has a bit more acidity.”

Gunderloch Riesling “Jean Baptiste” Kabinett, 2003
Price $19.99
Rating 92
The name of this wine comes from a character, Jean Baptiste Gunderloch, in a regional play called “The Jolly Vineyard” based upon the founder of Gunderloch. There is subtle mineral in the nose. The sip brings flavors of green apple, ample mineral, grapefruit, violet and perhaps fig.

Gunderloch Riesling “Diva” Spätlese, 2003
Price $21.99
Rating 93
The sip reveals notes of candied green apple, apricot nectar, mineral and magnolia blossom. Winery co-owner Fritz Hasselbach came up with the name “Diva” reminding the consumer that the wine is appealing, a little extravagant and definitely memorable. He suggests serving this wine as an aperitif, with spicy food, or a pumpkin soup.

Gunderloch Riesling Spätlese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG, 2003
Price $35
Rating 95
The sip offers big flavors of apricot nectar, candied grapefruit, lemon peel, firm mineral and interesting floral.

Gunderloch Riesling Auslese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG, 2003
Price $45
Rating 96
The bright nose showcases mineral, apple taffy and a bit of cilantro spice. The flavors that follow are of candied green apple, brown spice, lemon cream pie, dried fig and spicy dried floral.

Gunderloch Riesling “Gold Cap” Auslese NACKENHEIM ROTHENBERG, 2003
Price $87
Rating 98 
There are aromas of caramel apple, roasted nuts and mineral elements. The sip is chewy, filled with flavors of dried green apple, caramel, dried floral, lavender, dried fig, brown spice and resounding mineral.

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Darryl Beeson, a sommelier at the Gaylord Texan Resort, hosts "Food, Wine, Travel & More" every Saturday in the 2pm Central time slot on Dallas radio KMSR 990am (audio is streamed on www.990mainstreet.com).

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