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Acoma Pueblo and Big Balloons

Hot Air and Cool Nights

By Robert Painter

Every autumn in Albuquerque there is held a grand celebration for my birthday.  It is early in October and the night and early morning air is cool, sometimes even cold.  I am honored that such a special event as the Albuquerque Hot Air Balloon Fiesta has encircled the annual day of my birth for so many years.

The cool mornings are perfect for the 700-800+ balloons involved in the mass ascension. It is a sight like no other to be seen anywhere in the world and at no other time than my birthday. I feel even more proud that this spectacular festival of fun goes on for 10 full days.  What have I done to deserve such an ovation? Well, I’ll not question that.  Let me just tell you about this single most photographed event in the world.

I imagine you have probably seen photographs of the fiesta. Perhaps in newspapers, magazines or even books.  You may even have a calendar with every page showing a different balloon - or even dozens or hundreds of balloons.  Or you may have seen television coverage.  Every once in a while the capricious wind stirs and takes a balloon where it would prefer not to go - like a couple of years ago when the Smokey Bear balloon sailed into a very tall radio tower.  No one was hurt but Smokey was injured and retired.  But don’t worry, there’s a new Smokey flying again. Events like that typically make the national news.  Strangely enough, however, they never seem to mention my birthday.  I wonder how that can be?

People come from all over the world for this wonder filled spectacle.  Balloons come from Europe and South America as well as from all across the nation.  Many special balloons are now being created in Brazil.  How appropriate that the land of Carnival! should provide many of the colorful and amusing special shapes balloons.  Special shapes?  Many balloons are custom made to create objects or characters.  There is the space shuttle balloon that is actually larger than the real space shuttle.  Airabelle the cow is enormous.  The bees are fun.  There are trucks, champagne bottles, stagecoaches, flying pigs, monsters and any number of innovative and delightful special shapes balloons. Even Jesus and Elvis have appeared.

Albuquerque is an exciting city.  The public art collection here is, in my opinion, one of the best in the country.  If you have to get stuck in an airport, try for ABQ.  You can easily spend a couple of hours taking in everything from world class sculptures (one is by Jemez Pueblo artist Cliff Fragua  whose work can be found on the Washington mall in our nations capitol) to exquisite pottery by the masters of the art to fabulous weavings and many other pieces. And no, I didn’t forget jewelry.  Around town you will view delightful bronze sculptures on city sidewalks in the business area, an unbelievable stone sculpture in front of a bank, even a street (Lomas Avenue) where all the bus stops between Old Town and downtown are works of art.  My favorites are the Avanyu serpent and the beautiful blue tile stops. Instead of taking the bus, walk from your downtown hotel to Old Town just to see the bus stops.  Now isn’t that a strange suggestion?  Try it, you’ll like it. And the added benefit will be walking off a few calories so you’ll have more room for New Mexico’s fabulous food.

It would be hard to find a bad Mexican restaurant in Albuquerque. My favorite is Sadie’s, but you’d better like it hot.  Of course, you can ask for milder sauces, but I don’t know why you would.  The chiles are good for you.  Lots of vitamin C and anti-oxidants, or so I am told.  Your best bet is to ignore the “tourist” restaurants and walk into anyplace with a lot of locals and pick anything on the menu.  You’ll be thrilled with the taste and amazed at the bill.  You may want to leave a tip almost as large as the bill.  The food is that good and the price is that low .

This year I celebrated my birthday in style. First I had a perfect evening at the world renowned Galisteo Inn in the little village of Galisteo, not far from Santa Fe and Albuquerque. I dined with a good friend and a group of new friends.  When I lived in Albuquerque in the past I often heard about the Galisteo Inn.  It’s one of those nearby treasures that you keep hearing about but never quite get around to visiting.  Now I know what I’ve been missing and will surely return the first chance I get.  When you go be sure to take your camera.  The early morning light will make you think you’re the best photographer in the world. And you will be, especially when it comes to capturing your own memories and experiences.

Back in Albuquerque to attend the Balloon Fiesta I spent an evening at the wonderful Hyatt Tamaya Resort. I had only one night in my busy schedule for this visit, but I can tell you that I am definitely going back for more.  I remember telling someone that the Tamaya Resort was the most comfortable hotel that I have ever visited.  Not just my beautiful room, but the hotel itself.  I found myself sitting in the lobby by the fireplace waiting for my dinner partner to arrive and almost hated to get up to eat - and I do love to eat - when it was time to dine.  The famous Corn Maiden was fully booked so we ate at the Santa Ana Café. And the meal was splendid.

The next morning, unfortunately, I did not have time to indulge in the spa treatments, but I did have a few minutes to check out the spa and it was very inviting . . .  next time for sure. I was up very early and did get in a nice walk through the bosque and by the river. And if you’re a golfer you’ll want to give the Twin Warriors course a go.  It’s rated as one of the top courses in the country.

So, you’re wondering, what is my rush to move on from this beautiful spot.  Well, I’m heading west to visit Acoma Pueblo and to see the new museum.  This birthday celebration has to be one of the most memorable ever.  I had the opportunity to meet with two of the finest gentlemen I could imagine. I had breakfast with Marvis Aragon, head of the Acoma Business Enterprises - a young man with a grand vision for Acoma Pueblo.  We talked for more than an hour and could have spent the whole morning discussing his hopes for Acoma.  His love for his people and his sincerity must surely be a great example for the people of Acoma to follow.

My first stop after leaving the Sky City Casino Hotel (my home for three days and nights) was a short drive to Sky City and the beautiful new Haak’u Museum and Cultural Center. Brian Vallo, the head man there explained how the museum was conceived, planned and eventually built.  It is notable that because the building can be seen from above, the roof lines are kept amazingly clean.  No air conditioners, cable lines or other junk typically found on the roof.  Brian has been involved with the museum from conception to opening and is now running a facility that surely makes all Acoma people proud.  And the exhibits are exceptional.  My particular favorite is the pottery Matriarchs show.  I know a number of these potters and they are deservedly famous worldwide, with many of their pieces in collections from the Heard Museum in Phoenix to the Smithsonian in Washington, DC  to private collections scattered around the globe.

A special treat following the museum visit is a bus ride to the top of Sky City and a guided tour around the old city.  When you hear that St. Augustine is the oldest inhabited city in the U.S., try to remember that Sky City has been continuously occupied for over 1100 years.  But, at least, we can give them Florida, o.k.?  If you can get Orlando for your guide you’re in for a real treat.  He’s very outspoken and I think he may say a few things the other guides do not say.  But, I don’t know for sure since I haven’t been with the other ones.  So, chances are, whoever your guide might be you’ll have a great adventure.

I know you’ll be tempted to buy some beautiful Acoma pottery that some of the potters are selling in front of their homes as you pass by on your tour.  Just remember, if your guide doesn’t give you time to buy and you see something you like be sure and ask for the potter’s name.  After the main tour is over there will be another guide who can take you back for some last minute shopping.  So buy it and enjoy it - you won’t be sorry. If you’re up to it be sure and walk back down to the Cultural Center. You’ll discover why Acoma Pueblo was such a good fortress.  And if you arrive early enough in the day you can have lunch in the Yaak’a Café at the Museum.  I had some terrific bread pudding while meeting with Phil Robertson, the PR manager for Acoma Business Enterprises and he introduced me to the chef, Jay Riley, an Acoma tribal member.

I can’t end this story without telling you about my favorite birthday gift from this trip.  My wonderful new friends from Acoma Pueblo invited me to take a ride in their balloon at the fiesta.  Wow!  How exciting.  I don’t have room here to do a whole new story on hot air ballooning so I’ll just tell you that the experience is lots of fun and you need to try it for yourself.  You get to help unload the balloon, inflate it, fly in it and then reverse the procedure at the end.  And, believe it or not, if you have a fear of heights it doesn’t seem to matter.  Somehow that fear doesn’t seem to be a part of hot air ballooning. Of course, the obligatory glass of champagne at the successful completion of the flight just adds to the pleasure.

So pack your winter duds for the early morning chill and a nice comfortable short sleeve shirt for the warm, sunny afternoons and come help me celebrate my birthday next October.  Or come out anytime - New Mexico and the Pueblos will make you welcome.

When you Go:

http://www.galisteoinn.com/ - Galisteo Inn
http://www.tamaya.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/index.jsp - Tamaya Resort and Spa
http://www.abqcvb.org/ - Albuquerque Convention and Visitors Bureau
http://www.balloonfiesta.com/ - Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta
http://www.skycity.com/- Acoma - Sky City

Story and by Robert Painter - rpainter2006@comcast.net.

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