Buffalo, New York – An Architectural Museum

From Frank Lloyd Wright to Fibonacci

By J. J. Scott

In 1901 Buffalo hosted the Pan America Exposition which celebrated the modern developments of the day. Buffalo’s location at the juncture of the Erie Canal and the Great Lakes plus its proximity to the power generated by Niagara Falls along with these developments helped to create more millionaires per capita than any other American city – and that was when being a millionaire really meant something.  The millionaires left their mark on the architecture of the city.

1.  City Hall: The observation deck on the 28th floor of the monolithic Deco–style building is the perfect place to start a tour of Buffalo. The panoramic view presents Joseph Ellicott's radial street plan and views of the tops of buildings where much of their beauty is hidden from street level. Don’t miss City Hall’s spectator gallery with its magnificent sunburst skylight.

2.  M & T Building: Capped with a gilded dome, the Beaux–Arts building still carries the name “Buffalo Savings Bank.” One highlight is the interior of the dome with its spectacular 16 wedge-shaped ornamentation against a background of gold, some of which feature signs of the zodiac.

3.  Electric Tower: A tower that brings to mind the Pharos Lighthouse in Egypt dominates the wedge-shaped building that was once home to Niagara Mohawk power company. The tiered wedding cake-style was modeled after the Electric Tower that impressed visitors at Buffalo's 1901 Pan–Am Exposition. It is where crowds gather on New Year’s Eve to see the ball drop signaling the start of a new year.

4.  Albright-Knox Art Gallery: Located in a Greek Revival building that includes caryatids that support the side porches reminiscent of the Acropolis, the gallery features 20th –century art from abstract expressionism to pop art and includes Andy Warhol’s soup cans and architectural drawings from the L.J. Cella Collection. www.albrightknox.org, 716-882-8700

5.  Darwin Martin House: Considered one of Frank Lloyd Wright’s most important Prairie School houses, the Darwin Martin House has the signature horizontal lines with broad overhanging eaves, windows grouped in horizontal bands, earth tones, and Wright’s distinctive “Tree of Life” windows. The reconstruction offers a unique opportunity to see a progress in work. www.darwinmartinhouse.org, 716-856-3858

6.  Graycliff: With a jaw-dropping view of Lake Erie, Frank Lloyd Wright’s Graycliff was the summer of the Darwin Martin family. It features Wright’s signature integration of the land with the building that makes it outstanding. Like the Darwin Martin House, Graycliff is in the throes of reconstruction. It makes revisiting at regular intervals to see the progress especially interesting. http://graycliff.bfn.org, 716-947-9217

7.  Forest Lawn Cemetery: Pick up a map at one of the entrances so as not to miss the many highlights of the rambling, picturesque cemetery with stone bridges over meandering creeks.  Highlights include The Blue-Sky Mausoleum, the only Frank Lloyd Wright-designed memorial available to the public, the Blocher Memorial with life-like figures under glass, plus the resting places of President Millard Fillmore and the great Seneca chief, Red Jacket. www.forest-lawn.com

8.  Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens: When the Gardens opened in 1900 it was part of the Pan American Exposition. The Victorian tri-domed glass conservatory’s design is based on England’s Crystal Palace and the Palm House in Kew Gardens. The Gardens offer one surprise after another from secluded sitting areas to dinosaur topiaries to a 27-foot waterfall along with it collections of plants, flowers and trees from around the world.  www.buffalogardens.com, 716-827-1584

9.  Our Lady of Victory Basilica and National Shrine: In a classic Baroque Revival style the Basilica is a testament to the faith of Father Baker, the “Padre of the Poor,” who wanted a shrine to pay homage to the Blessed Mother.  Without any seed money the Basilica went from a vision to completion in four years and opened in 1925 debt-free.  www.ourladyofvictory.com, 814-237-7832

10.  Market Arcade: Originally named "The Palace Arcade, " it was modeled on similar buildings in London and Naples.  Of Neoclassical beaux-arts design, it was constructed as a place for indoor shops and offices much as it does today – an early version of the mall.

The architectural treasures of Buffalo are found in the city center and in parks plus also along Delaware Avenue, dubbed “Millionaires’ Row,” which is lined with large elegant homes built during the Gilded Age. For more information architectural treasures check www.buffalocvb.org, www.walkbuffalo.com, or call 800-BUFFALO.

Favored accommodations: Hampton Inn, www.hamptoninnbuffalo.com , a city center hotel where the indoor pool has a Greco-Roman feel and the Hotel Indigo, www.ichotelsgroup.com, a trendy hotel which incorporates the principles of a universal design constant found in nature, art and architecture known as the Golden Mean, the Fibonacci Sequence or Phi.

Favorite eatery: Everyone has heard of Buffalo Wings, and the Anchor Bar, www.anchorbar.com is where they originated.  It is a must-do in Buffalo.