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One Hundred Thousand WelcomesBy Geanie M. RoakeTraveling from Chicago’s O’Hare airport to its miniature equivalent in Shannon Ireland is like stepping into another dimension. Of course the two airports are polar opposites – finely tuned chaos compared to small-town bustle, but it’s the shift in scenery that takes your breath away. Our ten-day bus tour of Southern Ireland began in the rural area of County Clare, where the countryside is dotted with traditional cottages, lush valleys, and ancient stone buildings. There are over 300 hundred castles, or the remains of such, in County Clare alone. It’s not unusual to see a country farmhouse sitting a stone’s throw from a crumbling 12th century cathedral, the farmer’s cows grazing peacefully among the ruins.
While you’re in County Clare you’ll also want to see the dramatic Cliffs of Moher, a sheer rock face that drops 700 feet into the Atlantic Ocean. On the morning of our visit, misty rain and heavy clouds threatened to obscure this famous view, but as we neared the site, the gloom receded. Within ten minutes, the sun was out and we had a pristine view of the entire coastline. As it turns out, extreme weather changes are not unusual in Ireland. During the course of a day, conditions can vary from blustery, to nearly sweltering. Dress in layers, wear sunscreen, and bring an umbrella.
From the ring of Kerry we drove through Killarney, and east towards Blarney Castle. One thing that stands out as you cross the Irish countryside is the surprising tidiness of it all. Ireland has made a serious effort to clean up its act, and for the last few years the government has sponsored a county-by-county competition for the prettiest town. Apparently the residents take this challenge seriously. The winding roads are lined with jewel-toned houses, complete with lace curtains and flower boxes at the windows. Immaculate farms and outbuildings caused us to wonder aloud, “Where is all their junk?” If they have it, it’s well hidden.
Continue east and you’ll come to Waterford, home of the Waterford Crystal factory. Here, you can take an interesting tour of the operation, and once again, this is a great shopping stop.
In addition to sampling the local accommodations, you’ll want to be sure and duck into one of the pubs. Soft drinks are readily available if you’re not a Guinness fan, and you can usually catch a band playing traditional Irish music. Our favorite place was T&H Doolins, in Waterford.
From here we completed our circle of Southern Ireland, and headed back to the Shannon airport. All in all this is delightful area. The Irish people are enthusiastic and friendly and it’s not surprising that the traditional greeting, “Cead Mile Failte Rowhat” means One Hundred Thousand Welcomes. After spending some time enjoying their warm hospitality, I believe they really mean it. For Irish tourist information on line, go to www.ireland.ie, or www.irishinsight.com Air Lingus offers dailey flights to Shannon Airport, departing from Baltimore, Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles and New York. A good source for self-drive, or guided coach tour
information is CIE TOURS |
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TM
The
first stop on our journey was Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, located about
20 miles from the airport. The castle dates back to the year 1277, and
visitors quickly appreciate the challenge of medieval accommodations. Steep
narrow stairs wind up and down between floors. Tiny rooms are set deep into
stone walls, and a dungeon is located far too close to the family living
quarters. Our luxurious room at the Bunratty Hotel was greatly appreciated
in comparison. 
If
you’re single, you may want to travel north to the tiny village of
Lisdoonvarna. This is a popular place, especially in the month of September,
when the matchmaking festival takes place. Singles from miles around flock
here in search of an Irish match. Women sport their traditional Claddagh
rings which – depending on how you wear them – indicate whether you’re
available, considering, or your heart is already taken. Many happy unions
have taken place as a result of this celebration of romance.
Traveling
south from Lisdoonvarna, you can reach the lovely Ring of Kerry; a
one-hundred-mile panorama of mountains, cliffs, and beaches. One
helpful tip if you’re driving the ring, is to heed the unspoken rule of
traveling counter clockwise. The roads are narrow with a sheer drop on the
outside and when travelers meet in opposite directions the resulting
do-se-doe can be rather hair raising, especially if both vehicles are tour
buses. On occasion a foreign bus driver will commit this alarming faux pas.
When we asked our driver what happened in this case, he smiled and said, “I
don’t have to worry about it. They’re on the cliff side”. 
In
addition to knowing how to “do” the Ring of Kerry, our driver/guide, Tom
Keane of CIE, was a master of terrible jokes, traditional songs, and great
stories. The tour drivers are incredibly well informed about the details and
history of their particular territories, and it was fun to have someone
along who knew all the answers. 
Arrive
at Blarney Castle early to avoid the crowds. Here you’ll want to trek
to the very top of the castle and kiss the Blarney stone (or practice a bit
of the blarney and just say you did). There is also Blarney Woolen Mills for
the shopping inclined, or for those on shopping overload, a lovely park with
miles of meandering footpaths. 
Waterford,
like most of rural Ireland, is top heavy with bed and breakfast
establishments. We stayed in two during the course of our trip, and both
were outstanding. The food was good, though Irish vegetables tend to
be overcooked by American standards, but the pureed soups, and fresh salmon
were a delight. The B&B owners were efficient and very friendly. One
hostess even got on the phone and helped an acquaintance track down a long
lost relative. 
From
there we changed courses. We headed north through Kilkenny and on to Dublin
for a tour of the city, and a visit to Trinity College. Here you may want
to see the Book of Kells, an ancient illuminated manuscript of the four
gospels. While this was an interesting stop, the actual display of the Book
of Kells was a little disappointing. The traffic flow was unorganized, and
the whole site too crowded to get a really good look at the famous relic.
The real treat was upstairs where the original Trinity Library was housed.
The luminous barrel vaulted ceiling, and hushed atmosphere of age-old
knowledge made you feel as though you’d walked into a sacred place.
From
Dublin we traveled west to Clonmacnoise, the home of St. Ciaran’s monastery
founded in 545 AD. To see it now, Clonmacnoise is the picture of peace
and tranquility, but its history belies that impression. Clonmacnoise, was
attacked 40 times from the 8th to the 12th century, and was destroyed by
fire 13 times. After each onslaught the monks rebuilt, but when the
monastery was reduced to ruin by the English in 1582, it was finally
abandoned. The site has been painstakingly restored in recent years, and
now stands as a monument to its former glory. If you’re a photographer, you
won’t want to miss this one. Crumbling stone churches and tilting headstones
rest on the banks of the River Shannon, and the haunting beauty of the place
stays with you long after parting. 
While
you’re in the neighborhood, you may want to travel to the village of Cong.
This is the area where the famous John Wayne, Maureen O’Hara movie “Quiet
Man” was filmed, and if you’re in need of some exercise, you can enjoy the
Quiet man Walking tour. Many of the movie sets, Reverend Playfair’s house,
for instance are still in use today. 