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Historic Dutch-Sint MaartenA Get-A-Way With FlareBy Chris Millikan
Vacationing on the island’s lively Dutch-side, for a mere $1.50 we hopped local afternoon buses from Maho village to Sint Maarten’s historic port-capital. Serious shopping-bustle begins at Wathey Square near the still-used 1793 courthouse, originally home to city-founder John Philips. Across the way, a vintage salt-storage-vault houses a patio-café. In Kangaroo Court’s leafy courtyard we sipped luscious mango-smoothies and munched succulent seafood amid 19th century weigh-station remnants. Surviving hurricanes and restorations, heritage buildings remain scattered among glittering boutiques, restaurants and casinos.
Our Maho Beach balcony overlooks spectacular Caribbean vistas, a fantastic pool and luxuriant tropical gardens. Our Sonesta Resort suite also offers a peaceful haven above this lively hub of island action. After the sun goes down in Maho, a vibrant nightlife comes alive in glittering bars, casinos and disco-clubs pulsing with reggae, zouk and soca rhythms. Evenings often found us at Cheri’s open-air cafe for fixes of plantain-bananas, rice and fresh-grilled tuna topped with fiery Creole sauces. Spontaneous eruptions of pink and green clapper-toys added to a party-atmosphere. Neighbourhood beaches offered surprises as well as relaxation. At the end of Juliana Airport runway, Maho beach fascinates sightseers with radiant tropical sunsets frequently punctuated by dramatic-plane take-offs. At dusk as we innocently trudged the roadway bordering this pretty beach, wildly gesturing bystanders shouted warnings, “Grip the fence! Grab on!” and thundering jumbo-jets roared. Apparently those ‘in-the-know’ intentionally search out these powerful jet-blast thrills, but MY excitement was in surviving the unexpected force and not being blown seaward like so many beach-bags, hats, and towels lost by other unsuspecting holiday-makers!!
Peppered with heritage touches, our winter escape proved to be a little European and lots Caribbean. Dutch-Sint Maarten proved a getaway with fun-filled-flare and festive charm. Travel Suggestions: Island Transportation: Regarding car rentals beware of potholes, narrow lanes and sudden stops. Buses provide economic service between Phillipsburg and Marigot. Negotiate taxi rates before getting into the taxi. If island-hopping, bring your passport. Fantabulous Digs: Sonesta Maho Beach Resort www.sonesta.com/stmaarten/ General Tips: Dutch Sint Maarten, visit st-maarten.com. Part of the Netherland Antilles, the official language is Dutch; English is widely spoken. Prices are set in both florins and US dollars. A link on the website provides wedding advice regarding residency requirements, required paperwork and special arrangements. Family Fun: Include a visit to St. Maarten Park at stmaartenpark.com. |
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Originally “land of salt” to the Arawaks, Columbus renamed
“Soualiga’ for Saint Martin of Tours. Predictably, early Dutch, French, British
and Spanish battled over the lucrative salt-ponds; island control exchanged
hands over a dozen times before drawing a permanent border in 1817. Hilltop
ruins of the Caribbean’s first Dutch military outpost, Fort Amsterdam offers
spectacular views of present-day Philipsburg, stretching between Great Salt Pond
and Big Bay.
Cruise ship-shoppers stream the short length of Front
Street’s cobblestones to duty-free shops overflowing with sparkling gems,
designer watches, fashions, electronics, cigars and liquor. Adjoining a
picturesque beachfront promenade, the upscale St. Rose Arcade stands on the site
of the island’s first hospital. Nursing sisters worshipped in a chapel across
the street, now a sophisticated Hilfiger outlet. Nearby, the island’s oldest
inn, Royal Guest House once hosted Queen Juliana, a princess escaping Nazi
invasion of the Netherlands during WWII.
A brightly coloured specialty-shop prospers where an old
Jewish synagogue once stood. Guavaberry Emporium conjures folk-liqueurs once
distilled in homes for special occasions. While tasting frosty Guavaberry
coladas made from wild blueberry-like fruit, we selected exotic take-home gifts
from hand-made preserves, mango, lime and spice liqueurs, vintage rums and
gourmet pepper-sauces particular to the island.
Connected by Dutch-named alleyways to the city’s two main
streets, Old Street offers unique gift-stores and art-galleries. A lively
marketplace overflows with bargain crafts, T-shirts, hats and beach-wraps.
Rustic Caribbean-style shops and craft markets along Back Street replace
gigantic salt-warehouses that operated there during the centuries long salt-era
ending in the 1960’s.
An easy walk along the quiet golf course led us to Mullet
Bay, a laidback, powdery-sand beach and another romantic place for sunset
gazing. Further on, a trail meanders atop dramatic ochre-coloured sandstone
cliffs above Cupecoy’s golden-sand beaches and shoreline caves.
Just beyond, a monument at the permanent Dutch-French
border observes 300 years as prosperous neighbours. According to legend, a
beer-toting Dutchman and a wine-sipping Frenchman set off on foot to determine
Sint Marten’s boundary. Walking in opposite directions, they met again at Oyster
Bay. The Dutch gained Dawn Beach, a nearby local favourite where white-sands
curve along sparkling turquoise-blue waters.
