New Irish Cuisine : Farmgate at the English Market

by Dona Bauer

When I mentioned to friends I was coming to Ireland to check out the regional restaurants, everyone cautioned, “Irish food?  You’ll be eating corned beef and cabbage or lamb stew the whole time.”   

Farmgate Café at Cork’s English Market easily dispels that myth of beige, boiled and boring food.  This vibrant bistro is the perfect example of eateries that are wonderfully combing the traditional Irish dishes with new Irish flair. Farmgate is among a growing number of Irish restaurants supporting small-scale local food purveyors in a “farm to table” initiative “Every meal is created with only the freshest local ingredients, down to the seasonings,” owner Kay Harte told me.   “The oysters were brought in 30 minutes ago and are opened as they are ordered.”

There are two dining options at Farmgate.  There’s a large self-serve café that provides wholesome offerings at reasonable prices.  And then there’s the smaller, cozier restaurant which specializes in traditional Irish food.   The menu selections change daily based on freshness and availability of ingredients. 

Oysters were probably not served at your Irish grandmother’s table, but the rock oysters freshly shucked from the stall downstairs were the freshest and most flavorful I’ve ever had.  As we sampled signature dishes, it became evident that this new cuisine evolution is placing Ireland among an international group of gourmet food destinations.   

One of the inventive starters we enjoyed was the smoked fish salad that included salmon, mackerel and goat cheese crostini nestled in vibrantly green butter lettuce deftly dressed with herb vinaigrette.  

The featured traditional Irish lamb stew and seasonal jacket potatoes illustrate the new approach to time-honored favorites as tender morsels of lamb, barley and vegetables are prepared in the lightest of broths incorporating restrained seasonings, fresh herbs and spices.

 Shepherd’s pie is to Ireland what pasta is to Italy and there are probably hundreds of variations of the recipe.  I must say, however, that Kay’s kitchen turned out an entrée that  combines expertly seasoned meat cooked to  peak  flavor and tenderness, with the creamiest potato “crust”  resulting in a  savory and tantalizing pie.  My friend, who had never had this dish before, wanted to order a second portion. 

 For those who might like a lighter option, I recommend the Café’s Savory Tart of the Day.  This pastry is baked with local cheeses and vegetables and served alongside organic greens. 

Of course, no meal is complete without enjoying the noteworthy Farmgate desserts.    Two varieties of brownies – rocky road and turtle – were moist and dense and the local Irish chocolate provided a remarkably clever twist on classic baked goods.  And you have to try the Irish apple cobbler to appreciate how local fruit enhances a time-honored favorite.  The generous gluten-free cupcake is a satisfying alternative for those on a special diet.

After your meal, be sure to stroll through the lively Cork English Market’s stalls where over 140 artisanal butchers, bakers, fishmongers and greengrocers offer their wares.  Organic fruits and vegetables, top-quality meats, a vast array of seafood, locally made charcuterie, breads, chocolate and even a champagne from a local wine merchant will have you assembling a picnic or planning your next gourmet dinner.  Packages of Irish coffee, salt from the Irish Sea and a variety of seasoning packets (such as Irish Lamb Stew) are great gifts to take back to your friends. The Market is gaining an international reputation as exemplified by Queen Elizabeth’s request to include it on her recent Ireland itinerary. 

The countless delights available at the Farmgate Café and the Cork English Market place them at the heart of the New Irish Cuisine evolution.   The trip to bountiful Ireland begins here. 

Know before you go:

The Farmgate Café is situated above the English Market.    The English Market has four entrances with the two main ones on Princes Street and Grand Parade.   There are two laneways leading to the Market, one from Oliver Plunkett Street and the other from Patrick’s Street.

Reservations are recommended and are available by phone only.  They do not take email reservations. 

Farmgate Café Hours:
Monday - Saturday
9.00 - 5.00
Breakfast 9.00 - 10.30
Lunch 12 - 4.00
Tea, coffee & cakes until 5.00

Address: 
Farmgate Café
English Market
Cork, Ireland
www.farmgate.ie/corkhome
Email:  marketcafe@farmgate.ie
Local Phone:  021 427 8134
International:  00 353 21 427 8134 

The English Market
www.corkenglishmarket.ie

Below is general information relating to the market.   This info may vary from time to time, i.e.: Opening hours and days that the market is open.

Opening Hours:  The market is generally open to the public from 8 am until 6pm each day. Some stalls may open later and close early.

Opening Days:  The market is open from Monday through Saturday each week and is closed on Sunday, it is also closed on public holidays.