A Time and Place to Retreat

by Catriona J Nicolson

Tranquillity meets passengers disembarking the British Columbian ferry onto Salt Spring Island’s Fulford harbour.  Even in the height of summer as tourists flood onto the island to soak up the atmosphere created by the sun drenched scenic beauty of the island coupled with the creative ingenuity of the islanders show-casing their work at local markets, there is a laid-back ambience which carries you on its breeze into a gentle wave of magical contentedness.  It’s often referred to as the Canadian Caribbean, maybe due to the fact it has the mildest climate in the country or maybe referring to the welcoming ambience.   This spirit drew to it the so-called hippies in the late 1970s.  Building yoga retreats, an inclusive yet open-minded community and a wealth of innovative and original businesses, an exciting alternative culture thrived.  To ensure the island’s beauty was maintained and respected, the island’s trust controls local by-laws also overseeing the amount of building on the island. Indeed it’s rumoured that Oprah Winfrey herself was turned down as her building proposals for a holiday home were ‘too big’.

While the islands trust ensures the land is of prime concern when it comes to residential and building concerns, National Park status ensures protection for a land and ecosystem still sacred to the first nation tribes.   The National Park extends 200 metres into the ocean. Many endangered and threatened species including the killer whale are at home in these parks making it a haven for not just people.  There are some magnificent sites to be seen.   The occasional cougar and bear have been known to swim over from Vancouver Island. Deer are plentiful while eagles and orca whales are often sited.  Kayaking either in the lakes or by sea offers some of the best views and sunsets.  Hiking is another fabulous option to get closer to the natural beauty.

In the summer, drive to Ganges via Lake Cusheon.  The crystal clear, warm waters are too inviting not to dive into, the kayakers don’t mind and the fishermen stay clear…probably out of politeness as skinny dipping is commonplace on Salt Spring Island.  A local reveals that  ‘an original Salt Springer’ lovingly refers to the hippies that arrived here in the seventies bringing with them an ethos off individuality, innovation and spirituality , quickly turning it into ‘the coolest island in Canada’ according to the Washington Post.   While many a successful businessmen, world class restaurant owners and more than a couple of famous people have since taken up residence, there remains an open mindedness, a happy co-existence of many religions and an interest in the new eco friendly and spiritual pursuits. Cobb housing a form of house building with mud can be learnt here, bring the kids as turns are taken between childcare and cobb housing. One particular group of Salt Springers even bought 60 acres of land in 1981 which still hosts yoga classes and retreats.  

After enjoying a couple of the outdoor pursuits on offer, check out the main town of Ganges.  Quaint pubs and shops nestle around the rugged coastline with views out to the pine covered sister islands.  There’s a festival vibe to the town in the summer which loses momentum till it eventually seems to fall asleep in the winter.  Spring sees the markets come to life thriving every weekend, yachts begin to gather in the harbour, kayakers and hikers enjoy a drink at the pub before more exploration.  Then there’s the art galleries and theatre, the orchards and organic farms, the art and jewellery studios.  All made by the local residents but enjoyed by all.

Admire the local talent and their idyllic homes on the open day tours.  There is the apple tour every summer where the orchard owners open their fields to you, educating you in the varieties, showing how apple juice is pressed and best of all sharing with you the beauty of their land including private beaches and some of the most stunning views.  Many artists and potters studios are open to the public, check out the tourist office for more information.  Winery tours make for a fun day out.  Then there is the plethora of yoga classes and retreats available. 

Serenely the sun rises as a private yoga class enjoys the quiet of the woodland clearing looking out over the Pacific Ocean.  The mobile private yoga classes are at your beck and call, wherever and whenever you want. It’s an amazing way to bring in a new day but it needn’t stop there.  The Salt Spring Yoga centre offers courses and classes as does the Ganges yoga centre. In fact there is not an hour of the day when a yoga class cannot be found. Salt Spring kayaking on both the lakes and the sea is a popular pastime to locals and tourists a like.  Tours to Chocolate beach are highly acclaimed.  A visit to Ruckle Park will show the island’s nature in it’s most pure form, with a glorious forest and some incredible views to be seen.  Back in Ganges town, restaurants make use of the abundant fresh organic ingredients to create delicious dishes. 

There’s a beauty to this place that goes deeper than that which you see, it’s runs through the countryside, through the towns but more than that, it runs through the people.  The residents of Salt Spring are a transient group often staying for just a few months or years then moving onto pastures new, but they bring to Salt Spring new skills and ideas so don’t expect the same thing twice in this little place.  Maybe it’s the folk that you find here that make this place so special, their inventive minds, their willingness to follow their heart whether it causes them to skateboard from one side of Canada to Salt Spring, create a multi million dollar cable channel, create a new type of flower, be invited to the Oscars for best set design or those who decide to teach themselves to be an organic farmer, there’s something inspiring in these people.  What lures them to this little place?  Probably the values long ago instilled.  Openness that allow this island the great amount of differing religions to cohabit amicably, that the land is of the greatest importance, housing and roads regulated so that they will leave only the gentlest footprints on the island and the community spirit that thrives here, with retired millionaires from the east coast positively revelling in the idea of giving money back to the locals.  Maybe that respect and truth of identity is the true beauty of this island.