Two Days in Cuenca, Ecuador
by Richard Frisbie
 Cuenca (pronounced Quen -
ka) is in the Ecuadoran Andes, higher in elevation then Quito, which is the
3rd highest Capital in the world. I was slightly dizzy and short of breath
when we arrived.
Fortunately, we stopped for a brief hike (for some, more of a photo op at
a beautiful vantage) so during the 4 hour drive up from the coast I got used
to the altitude. “Cajas” National Park spans Ecuador’s Great Divide in South
America. Filled with pristine lakes and streams, the vantage point we chose
looked over a valley where the waters flowed either to the Pacific or the
Atlantic. The alpine wildflower blooms swayed in the steady winds of the
summit. Winding paths through the green hillsides beckoned in all
directions. It is a beautiful entry into the small city of Cuenca in the
valley below.
  We
were going to fly in to Cuenca, but it is a good thing our plans changed. A
direct flight, short, but almost vertical, would have left me immobilized
for the morning with altitude sickness. This way we acclimated as we toured,
eating our way slowly up the slopes of the Andes, enjoying the sights and
tastes of the green, but austere, countryside.
 Cuenca is called the city
of four rivers, but you probably know it for the “Best Town to Retire In”
award it received last year. Talk about perfection. We drove into a clean
little city filled with beautiful architecture, warm, friendly people, and a
perfect climate. Residents of Cuenca don’t have air conditioners OR
furnaces. With seven universities, Cuenca is a young, vibrant city. The
hospitals are excellent, with Medical Tourism to Cuenca a major draw. The
eternal, Spring-like weather and the low cost of living (you can build a
nice house for $50,000 to $200,000) complete the short list of reasons so
many Americans and people of other nationalities have chosen to move here.
To experience the long list, you should spend some time looking around this
beautiful city. You won’t be disappointed.
 We stayed at the Crespo
Hotel on the edge of the old city, on the heights above the river fed by the
lakes we’d just seen. It is convenient to great shopping and restaurants, or
just for a leisurely stroll along the park-like river shore. The woodwork is
magnificent, showing the craftsmanship of decades ago, and the rates are
reasonable (beginning at about $80) including a freshly prepared full
American breakfast. If I stayed there again I’d be sure to ask for a room on
one of the higher floors, away from the street noise and nightlife this
section of the city is famous for.
 We only had two days in
Cuenca, and one was spent on a day-trip. It was hardly enough time to find
the magnificent town square with specimen trees from around the globe, let
alone enjoy the art deco and colonial architecture that fills the narrow
cobblestone streets. I’d have stayed in the city the second day, but the
lure of Inca ruins meant a trip to the Ingapirca archaeological complex
about 2 hours drive away. It is the most significant Inca ruin in Ecuador
(and the only one!) so it is definitely a must-see stop on any tour.
 Ingapirca is perched on
the heights above a beautiful valley of farms whose fields sprawl up the
surrounding mountainsides. The sunlight and clouds splashed light and
shadows across the multi-colored fields making it look like an Incan
sweater. The ruins themselves reflected the various occupations from the
Canari, to their conquest by the Incas, and their subsequent fall to the
Spaniards. Through it all, the 500 year old walls of the sun temple stand
sturdy to this day.
 While we were there a
group of native school children were touring the ruins of their ancestors.
They were curious and friendly, but shy, ducking out of sight behind partial
walls when we looked at them. Then, a group of the older ones, 11 & 12 year
olds, appeared before us in file and asked our names. With permission, we
took pictures of Sylvia, Hector, Louisa, Lucretia, Patricia, Anastasia, and
Nina. The girls were more forth-coming when we asked their names, so I only
have one boy’s name even though there were three.
 That evening we finished
off our stay with a visit to a newly created dinner theater in the “Artist’s
District” in the foothills above Cuenca. Called “Likapaay”, which means
“looking down”, the theater hosts an energetic young traditional native
music and dance troupe, as well as a chef who prepares traditional native
dishes (using ancient recipes) which are served on the same dishes they
would be in the homes of indigenous peoples. It is an impressive and
important preservation of a way of life which could soon disappear.
Too soon it was time to leave Cuenca for a flight to Quito. Cuenca's
airport is in the city, only 15 minutes from downtown. It is a small modern
facility with upscale shops and all the comforts of a big airport without
all the bustle and hassle. It was a pleasure to use, even though it meant
leaving this perfect jewel in the Andes. I hope to fly back into it for good
one day.
All photos by Richard Frisbie
Aerogal Airlines
https://www.aerogal.com.ec/en/
Cuenca Visitors’ Bureau
http://www.cuenca.com.ec/
Ecuador Travel
http://www.athecuador.com
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