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Ghosts, Romans and Snickelways Galore!By Gilly Pickup
Then you have to remember that the ‘Gates’ are ‘Bars’, for instance, ‘Monk Bar’ and ‘Bootham Bar’. The ‘Bars’ are the ancient defensive ports of entry to the walled city…but that’s not all! The City is also honeycombed by a maze of about 50 narrow alleyways called ‘Snickelways’ (sometimes misspelt ‘Snickleways’,) which lead to some of York’s scenic backwaters and which are not wide enough for vehicles. Local author Mark Jones coined the word ‘Snickelway’ to describe the city’s picturesque alleys and although the word was invented, it quickly became part of the local vocabulary and has even been used in official council documents. The word consists of three existing words: ‘Snicket’; the passageway between walls or fences, ‘Ginnel’; a narrow passageway between a building and ‘Alleyway’, a narrow street or lane. But don’t worry - once you’ve got your head round all that, you’re ready to roll!
Another phantom has been seen in the churchyard of the city’s 15th century Holy Trinity Church in Goodramgate. This headless ghost was Thomas Percy, Earl of Northumberland in his lifetime, executed in 1572 for plotting against Queen Elizabeth 1 and his head was displayed on a pole. According to local legend, he has been looking for his head ever since……
Nearby All Saints Church has a plethora of curly haired chubby cherubs hurtling down from the ornate ceiling and one stained glass scene depicts a 15th century representation of the Nine Orders of Angels – including a man wearing spectacles! And there’s the monastic site, complete with medieval stocks. But what’s this? There are only five holes …… legend has it that a permanently drunk one-legged sailor was a frequent visitor to the stocks, so they were designed especially for him as well as a couple of two-legged people! But no time to dilly dally. We were off to visit York Brewery, where informative tours - which include a pint of beer - provide an entertaining insight into the master brewer’s art. Visitors can see, smell and taste some of the finest cask conditioned ales brewed using traditional methods. This independent brewery has scooped Brewing Industry International Awards, led by their popular beer, ‘Centurions Ghost Ale’, named after a local ghost story…. which led to the discovery that York simply bristles with atmospheric inns, with fascinating histories and more lively spirits than those bottled behind the bar. The Golden Fleece dating back to 1503, York’s oldest coaching inn, originally belonged to the Merchant Adventurers who were responsible for the woollen trade on the River Ouse. It is reputed to have more ghosts than you can shake a stick at though I didn’t see – or feel - any that day.
Energy renewed, it was time to see what ‘Yorkwalk’ had to offer. These themed walking tours take place throughout the year, so whatever your interest, from bizarre (Saints and Sinners Tour) to bloodthirsty (Graveyard, Coffin and Plague Tour) - there will be something to suit you. Ghostwalks are a perennial favourite in York too, there are several to choose from and all guarantee a ‘shockingly enjoyable’ evening! No trip here is complete without visiting Jorvik Viking Centre, the nearest you will get to Viking York short of hopping into a time machine. Archaeologists uncovered Jorvik, a 9th century Viking settlement that preceded York, about 25 years ago. This is the fun tourist version – think along the lines of ‘Jorvik, The Ride’. Travel in a ‘time car’ back to the Viking era, recapturing the sights, sounds and smells. If you want to catch the delicate aroma of a Viking piggery (phew!) or examine the workings of a Viking toilet (yuk!), now is your chance! Unsurprisingly Jorvik Viking Centre is top of the pops with children, but a word of warning - at peak times you can spend longer waiting in line than you do on the ride.
York is soaked in tradition and stacked with undiscovered charm. With over 30 museums and countless award winning attractions to choose from, shops galore and great eateries, this is one city that truly has it all. All images © Gilly Pickup I Want To Go: Stay Longer Campaign…stay for three nights, pay for two. Special promotion runs 1 Nov 2006 to 31 March 2007. Wide choice of accommodation. Prices from £52 (USD $90) per person for three nights. Self catering options also available. Contact Visitor Information Centre, (details above) or book online at www.visityork.org. Quote ‘Stay Longer’. (Subject to availability.) Car Hire in York Europcar – Tel: +44 (0)1904 656161 York’s Events - York has a year-round calendar of events
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TM
Almost unbearably eccentric, the historic city of York is
filled to the gills with winding streets with strange-sounding names – Coffee
Yard, Mucky Peg Lane, The Shambles and Grape Lane - formerly ‘Grope’ Lane, the
medieval red light district, which in those days was frequented by the lesser
clergy. And then there is Mad Alice Lane - ah, poor mad Alice Smith! The
lane was her home until 1825 when she was taken to the castle and hanged for the
‘crime’ of insanity – but ssh! they say that her restless spirit haunts the
alleyway….
But things can get confusing in York because ‘Streets’ are
‘Gates’ – like the quaint ‘Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate’ which is the city’s shortest
street with the longest name! In the 15th century it was called ‘Whitnourwhatnourgate’,
meaning ‘what a street!’ and indeed it was; in the dim and distant past men
brought their errant wives here to be taught a lesson or two.
And so Mike and I started our tour
in 
How we both love visiting York with
its beautiful Gothic Cathedral, great shops and plethora of phantoms! It is the
most haunted city in Europe – and that’s official! The Treasurer’s House, built
over a Roman road, is mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records for hosting
‘Ghosts of Greatest Longevity’. One of the city’s most famous ghost stories
happened here in 1953 when a plumber was spooked to see a troop of Roman
soldiers and a horse appear through a wall. The young man described their
uniforms and equipment in precise detail; this was later verified by experts as
members of the 9th Legion, stationed at York over 1,600 years ago. 
Next on our must-see list was the vast Minster, which took
a mind-boggling 250 years to build! This, the largest Gothic Cathedral in
northern Europe, dominates the city and its great east stained glass window -
one of 128 in the cathedral - is believed to be the largest area of stained
glass in the world, roughly the size of a tennis court!
Jane Hodgson, wife of a Chancellor to the Minster, has a memorial inside the
Cathedral dedicated to her memory. She died in 1636 aged 38, presumably of
exhaustion, after giving birth to 24 children. After we had soothed our souls by
listening to a lunchtime recital and taken in a bird’s eye view of the city from
the tower, we descended into the beautiful Undercroft, Treasury and atmospheric
Crypt to see the remains of the Roman Legionary Headquarters and the seven
chambers, all on Roman ground level. In 1984, a fire destroyed much of York
Minster's South Transept, but it was restored so that no trace of damage
remains. During restoration, a decision was made to replace the central roof
beam with real oak, rather than steel disguised as oak because the architects
insisted that the beam should be able to last at least 1000 years. An oak beam
can last that long but the architects weren't so sure about steel, after all it
hasn't been around long enough to find out!
Now it was time for us to sample a taste of days gone by in
the Castle Museum, formerly York Castle Jail. As we walked through the cobbled
streets inside the museum, we stopped to peer in the windows of Harding's
Drapery store with its bizarre collection of bric-a-brac including ostrich
feathers and hat pins. Further along we discovered a city at war, a dubious
underworld of highwaymen and saw the toys that long-ago children treasured.
In this early twentieth century Edwardian Street there
is also a garage with 1899 Grout Steam Car; an
ironmonger's shop, a gypsy caravan and street piano.
But all this history gives you an appetite so we decided to pay a visit to the
city’s most famous emporium for tea, ‘Betty's Tearooms’ all wood panelling,
stained glass and waitresses dressed in 1930s uniforms. A traditional Yorkshire
recipe which Betty's keeps alive is the ‘Fat Rascal’, a gigantic teacake
bursting with succulent dried fruit. 
While visiting the city we stayed at the modern, affordably
priced Queens Hotel which opened in Millennium year. (
As
you'd expect from a modern hotel each room is equipped for internet access. The
hotel’s Riverside Bar is a great place to relax before dinner while the huge
buffet breakfast sets you up for a hard day’s sightseeing!
