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Madrid Free and EasyBy Rosario Charie AlbarA T-shirt on display in a shop window in the center of Madrid proclaimed, “Life is good”. It’s good to be back in Madrid and savor its full range of artistic and leisure offerings without running to the ATM everyday. Here are some free attractions and easy activities to indulge in while in Madrid: 1. The Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia is the home of Guernica, a powerful and evocative masterpiece by Pablo Picasso. It is immense. Painted in black and white, it is an abstract representation of the destruction wrought by the bombing of Guernica, a small town in the Basque region during the Spanish Civil War. Picasso portrays the death and suffering of civilians, some 1600 of whom were killed and wounded. Elsewhere in the museum are works by Spain’s own modern masters, Salvador Dali, Joan Miró and Juan Gris, among others. The museum is free on Saturdays after 2:30 p.m. and all day Sundays.
3. The Prado is unquestionably one of the best art museums in the world. As court painter, Diego Velasquez distinguished himself with his portraits of the royal family and ordinary people such as those he portrayed in Los Borachos. His Las Meninas is an absorbing study of the young princess and her entourage. It also hints the presence of the King and Queen whose images are reflected on the mirror in the background. And finally, it is a suggestive self portrait of the artist who has obviously “arrived”. Another Spanish master, Francisco Goya, renders a moving scene of an execution in 2nd of May 1808. The victim raises his hands in surrender and faces his executioners with eyes full of fear. This is a far cry from the Naked Maja who reclines in nude splendor for posterity. The Prado is free all day Sundays.
7. Take a break from sightseeing and head to La
Mallorquina on Puerta del Sol. A euro will buy one of many mouth watering
pastries like hojaldre or neapolitana.
8. The Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando is in the former 17th century Baroque palace of Juan de Goyenche. This museum showcases Spanish painters. The collection includes two self portraits by Goya, his life size canvas of La Tirana and smaller paintings depicting the Inquisition, the Casa de Locos and a bullfight. There are also works by El Greco, Zurbaran and Murillo. It is free to the public on Wednesdays. 9. For views of the red rooftops of Madrid to the suburbs beyond, go up to the 8th floor restaurant of El Corte Ingles on Plaza Callao. Arrive before 1 p.m. and beat the lunch crowd. The restaurant serves three course fixed-priced menus starting at around 10.95 euros but you can always order coffee or beverage and sit for as long as you wish.
* * * Where to stay: The Premier Hotel Santo Domingo is centrally located. It is about a five- minute walk to Puerta del Sol and the Gran Via. Plaza Santo Domingo, 13. Phone: 34 91 547 98 00, Fax: 34 91 547 59 95, www.hotelsantodomingo.com Where to eat: Tres Encinas on Calle Preciados serves seafood ($$$). Museo de Jamon offers three course meals from 7 euros as well as ham soup, ham sandwiches, ham tortillas (omelettes) etc. They have branches all over the city including Plaza Mayor, near the Prado museum and off of Puerta del Sol ( $ ). The restaurant at El Corte Ingles (a department store) on Plaza Callao has a good selection of fish, pasta or steak dishes ($). I especially enjoyed the fish entrée, Emperador a la plancha, served with potatoes and crusty bread. La Mallorquina for coffee and pastry is on Puerta del Sol. Spain website: www.spain.info Images by Rosario Charie Albar. |
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2. Plaza Mayor is the drawing room of Madrid. Though
this used to be where heretics were burned, today it is full of life. An
equestrian statue of Philip III rides in the center of the square surrounded by
inviting outdoor cafés. This is one of the best places to people watch and
admire the frescoes that decorate some of the 17th century buildings bordering
the plaza. The Museo de Jamon on the square sells bocadillos (mini sandwiches)
for around 1 euro.
4. Madrid, unlike Paris or London, has no famous
cathedral. It does have the Real Basilica of San Francisco which has an enormous
dome that rivals in size the dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. For 2.40
euros, a guide takes visitors to the sacristy with its carved, wooden choir
stalls (some are faux) and the pinacoteca with an original by Francisco Zurbaran.
The side chapels are dramatically decorated, some with rare tiles, another in
the Mudejar style and each one is crowned with its own dome. In one of the
chapels, Goya stares back at the onlooker from a mural.
5. The squares of Madrid are alive with fountains,
equestrian statues of kings long gone, and outdoor cafés. At Plaza España, Don
Quixote of La Mancha and his faithful squire, Sancho Panza are poised to “run
where the brave dare not go”. The cafés at Plaza Oriente have unbeatable views
of the formal French garden and the Royal Palace. It’s always delightful to see
the Cibeles Fountains on Plaza de Cibeles. The drone of traffic is muffled by
the sound of water as Cibeles, the Greek goddess of fertility, rides her chariot
with the help of two mythical lions.
6. While there are many interesting things to see in
the Royal Palace, it cost 10 euros to get in. If this is an obstacle, head over
to the Cathedral of the Almudena which is across from the palace and check out
the golden retablo before which Madrileños and visitors alike have prayed for
divine intervention. Entrance is free.
There are neither tables nor chairs here.
You can pile your plates of sweets on counters that take half the space of this
popular pastelería.
10. More time on your hands? Retiro Park is next door
to the Prado museum. Or if it’s Sunday, check out El Rastro flea market for the
incredible selection of “stuff” on sale. Also on Sunday, head over to the
chapel of the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales and listen to the nuns in
residence sing during mass at noon. They can only be heard, not seen. This
chapel is part of the convent established by a member of the royal family in the
mid 16th century. Notice the balconies from whence royal guests used to observe
mass.
