Palau: Snorkeling and Diving Paradise

Pristine South Pacific Island Country Beckons

By Larry Taylor

Not a lot of American travelers know about Palau. But just ask avid divers or snorkelers. If they haven’t already been there, they will tell you Palau is at the top of their list of “must go” spots.

Palau is an archipelago of over 400 islands in the South Pacific with less than 20,000 citizens. About 90 percent live in Koror state, where tourists usually stay. The attraction–lying off Koror are the Rock Islands, approximately 300 islets, protected by a huge barrier reef. An underwater paradise.

The overused word “unspoiled” comes to mind, but it is completely appropriate in Palau. When we came here for the first time last spring, we were part of a World Wildlife Fund tour. We had signed up for several days of heavy snorkeling. Our group leader was a local, Ron Leidich, owner of Planet Blue Tours.

We stayed at the Palau Pacific Resort, where each day a boat met our group at the resort dock. Once onboard, we headed for the Rock Islands, a collection of rounded limestone, foliage-covered formations. Undercut by wave action, many seem to float on the water’s surface. Channels wend their way among them. Tunnels lead to secluded lagoons. At times we took paths to land-locked lakes, fed subterraneous by the sea.

On our first morning, we were hardly off the boat into the water when we were overwhelmed by dazzling corals, an artist’s palette of color–over 500 types of hard and soft varieties thrive here.

Next, we saw fish in almost staggering numbers, large, medium and small, coming in an array of rainbow hues. With over 1,400 species of fish, Palau was recently named Number One Underwater Wonder of the World by CEDAM–a group of marine scientists and conservationists.

Each day, if the water looked a little too choppy at our intended destination, Ron knew somewhere else to take us. Our routine was snorkeling in the morning then heading for an island where another boat had arrived to set up a table full of goodies. Often after lunch we took a hike, usually to find relics and bunker ruins left by Japanese during their WW II occupation of the islands. At one spot we floated over a submerged Zero plane.

Ron knew where to find the seemingly hidden remnants of the war. What’s more, he knew everything Palauan–the flora, fauna, and geography. He came from America 10 years ago to teach diving and liked it so much he remained. He went on to open Planet Blue Sea Kayak Tours. His reputation as one of the country’s best guides keeps him in demand as a tour leader.

As can be imagined, Palau is a wonderful place to go kayaking, exploring the maze of islands. One day, Ron brought along kayaks for us, giving us a chance to paddle through a dark tunnel into a bright green world of a secluded lake. We felt we were on a quest out of “The Lord of the Rings.”

Most of the snorkeling spots are given colorful descriptive names–Giant Clam Beach, Lolita’s Coral Gardens and Mandarin Fish Lake, one of the few places the exquisitely beautiful Mandarin is found, decorated in an oriental design of green, blues and oranges. We also visited Ulong Island where TV’s “Survivor” took place a couple years ago.

A visit to the well known Jellyfish Lake was particularly enchanting. Closed off from the ocean, fed by subterraneous means, the lake has formed its own environment, containing literally thousand of stingless jellyfish. After hiking up a jungle-covered hill and down again, we entered the water and joined up with the pulsating mass of jellies. They have no enemies; only a few small fish live there. Swimming among the graceful jellyfish was like gliding through a porous pinkish-gold curtain.

We spent so much time out among the islands that we didn’t have much opportunity to take advantage of all that Palau Pacific Resort offered. This is a deluxe international resort, and most visitors were Asian, many from Taiwan and Japan which are only a few hours away.

Before dinner each evening, we looked forward to sitting out on our patio overlooking the bay to watch the spectacular sunsets. The resort features a perfect 1,000 foot white sand beach inviting active guests to windsurf, sail or kayak–and the snorkeling is plenty good off shore.

Clams abound offshore at the resort. At low tide we dubbed the area in front of our bay-view room the big clam bungalows. The up-to-four-foot giants had closed their shells, seeking refuge from the sun, making the tidal flats looked like a sub-division of miniature houses, the half-submerged mollusks standing above the wet sand.

A large swimming pool overlooked the ocean. As well, there were two outdoor lighted tennis courts and a well-equipped fitness center. We particularly enjoyed strolling by the saltwater pond containing fish, clams and stingrays. The resort also has its own PADI five-star dive center.

The hotel’s two restaurants feature Pacific Rim cuisine, local fresh fish , US prime beef and Micronesian food specialties. The casual Coconut Terrace restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Guests have a choice of ordering menu service or helping themselves to the buffet. Each evening buffets have a theme such as Palauan, Italian and seafood, while the breakfast buffet includes traditional Japanese, American and international selections.

Practically all Palauans speak English in addition to their own unique language. They went out of their way to be helpful. We took their advice and found excellent Japanese and Indian restaurants in town. The dollar goes far here with taxis and meals a bargain. Tourism is increasing rapidly, so look to Palau while it’s still laid back and peaceful.

Find out about Ron and his business at www.paddlingpalau.com. For general information on snorkeling, diving or tours, contact www.samstours.com In the U.S. you can book through Wilderness Travel, (800) 368-2794; www.wildernesstravel.com . To contact Palau Pacific Resort, go to www.panpacific.com

by Gail Taylor