Where you can really get away from it all

by Madelyn Miller

If you are looking for bright lights and a big city, Anguilla is not where you want to spend your next vacation.

Anguilla is a place where you can run across a beach with an endless expanse of pure white coral sand and see no one else’s footprints. And at night, the brightest lights you see are the stars.

So what do people do all day in Anguilla?  Not much.  And that is the whole charm of it .

 Of course you can take advantage of the breathtaking beaches and enjoy water sports. Anguilla is known for some of the best dive waters in the world. Or you can sit in a hammock and contemplate where to go to dinner. And that is actually a very important decision. Anguilla continually wins Caribbean Culinary Competitions and I don’t know of another place in the world that has so many gourmet restaurants per capita.

Anguilla is a somewhat surprising place to find this level of cuisine. Because although fresh fish is caught daily, most of the ingredients come by way of St. Martin.  Food is expensive, but you won’t find much else to spend money on. Hotels are a good value ( a suite at the Sonesta Beach Resort Anguilla is only $280 in off-season to $450 in high season) and there is really no place to shop unless you want to buy a pareo on the beach. And most of the people who come to Anguilla have already bought a pareo if they want one.

This is probably not where people come on their first visit to the Caribbean. It is not an island known for great shopping and cheap liquor.   Except for a tiny historical museum, there is not much in the way of must-see monuments. And there almost nothing  to do at night except walk on the beach and enjoy a sunset.. Yet like many other Anguilla-fans, I loved every minute of it. I really and truly felt like I was on vacation.

The one evening activity I would recommend is try to catch a concert by Bankie Banx.  I found it almost accidentally when I asked about an inexpensive place to eat. Besides a spectacular view and great music, you get some pretty good barbecue at a reasonable price. But the best thing about Bankie’s place is Bannkie. Loved by all the islanders, he seems to be related to everyone. The cab driver who took us there, went to school with him. When I wanted to get something over to him, it turned out his best friend worked at the Sonesta Beach Resort where I was staying. And I think it is probably the best place to meet the natives. Yet nothing is said about it in any of the guidebooks or tourist information I found. Bankie has a cell phone, but not a regular phone. So if you call to find out when his slightly irregularly scheduled concerts are...you might find him over at a friends or walking the beach or performing on another island.

When I wanted to go to a Saturday night concert at about 9:30, someone suggested we call to be sure it was still going on. Good advice. Bankie was already in bed and we woke him up. (In some Spanish countries, it would just be the end of siesta-time} But as I said, Anguilla is a slightly sleepy island.

Where to Eat

Since eating is such an important activity, everyone makes reservations. And it is also much of the topic of conversation all day as people exchange favorite places and recommend different chefs and dishes. Since eating is such a focus, many people plan their meals before they even arrive on the island, so I have included as much information as possible to help you make advance reservations.

CASABLANCA RESTAURANT: The Sonesta Beach Resort's elegant signature restaurant serves New World cuisine while diners overlook the Caribbean Sea and the mountains of neighboring St. Martin. The romantic setting is almost enough of a reason to come here. But chef Emma's food is equally unforgettable. Try the whole lobster and fresh local fish in a saffron vegetable broth and the New York Sirloin of Beef with crispy fried onions and Cabernet Sauce. And if pumpkin is in season, don't miss the Island Pumpkin and Sweet Potato Bisque. (I liked it so well I ordered it twice in 3 days)

Sip on the signature drink "Sonesta Sea Mist" an intoxicating mix of Midori liqueur, light rum and pineapple juice.
Telephone 809-497-6999  fax 809-497-6899

KOALKEEL RESTAURANT: The lovingly restored Warden's Place, one of Anguilla's oldest buildings, is home to KoalKeel restaurant, where you can dine, shop for vintage rums, and have tea and pastries while you browse among antiques and bask in another era. Euro-Caribe cuisine is served in breezy elegance.  The chef turns out exquisite dishes ranging from a legendary island pea soup to luscious crayfish ravioli with an Oriental flavor. Chef Leonard "Smoke Sharplis grills fish, lobster and conch and slow cooks meat  in the old rock oven. Herbs are hand-picked fresh every day from the garden next to the restaurant and they add a local accent or an exotic flair to all of  the chef's creations.

Don't eat all day and then indulge in the Chef's seven course tasting menu based on the local foods that are abundant in Anguilla, fresh fish, coconut, pigeon peas, potatoes, mangos, sugar and limes.

 Reservations are really necessary and you still might wait .(809-497-2930)  http://www.koalkeel.com/ 

HIBERNIA:  An extraordinary and award-winning menu of French food inspired by Southeast Asia. The restaurant décor and the food reflect the personal style of owners Raoul Rodriguez and Mary Pat O'Hanlon. Raoul has a degree in food and restaurant management from Strausbourg University in France and had his first work experience in Ireland's only two Michelin Star restaurant. He soon was executive chef at Dublin's trendiest restaurant. His partner and wife operated her own fashion design label in Ireland--ooff (olive oil and function factory) that was featured in numerous Irish fashion magazines. With a name like that, why am I not surprised she now runs a restaurant?

She also designed clothes for the Irish rock band U-2 and film stars.
Their extensive travels to Thailand, Vietnam, Hong Kong, Burma, Japan and Malaysia are reflected in their eclectic menu. Be sure to try the pumpkin and lemongrass soup with crispy bacon.
Telephone 264-497-4290   fax 264-497-4844  email: hibernia@anguillanet.com

SCILLY CAY: This whole Island is a restaurant. The island is uniquely landscaped with intriguing driftwood and tropical flowers. Pink conch shells, retrieved from the surrounding waters line the walkways. Thatched tiki huts provide both shade and relaxation.  This private and romantic island with a beautiful beach makes for a memorable dining experience. But you can only have it at lunch. There are not many choices--but they are all outstanding. While they are famous for their lobster and crayfish (both kept alive in the water until the moment they are cooked), my foodie friends and I thought the chicken was even more remarkable. The food is not inexpensive but the portions are so generous you may not want to eat again.

And if you think of it as your own private island with entertainment included, it is a bargain. Enjoy a serene swim or exciting snorkel adventure in the warm turquoise waters filled with tropical fish. Then refresh yourself at the shaded beach bar with the famous Scilly Cay rum punch, but caution--they are potent.

For the music aficionado, Scilly Cay offers a variety of live musical entertainments. On Wednesday, Sproka serenades the guests with his romantic renditions. On Friday, Dumpa delights with his melodious steel pans, and on Sunday, boogie to the reggae beat with the Happy Hits. Open 11am to 5pm. Closed  Monday. Phone 264-497-5123   fax 264-497-5981.

After dinner, you will promise yourself to take advantage of the water sports, tennis and fitness center. Tomorrow.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: Insider Tips

Taxi Service: Call Aubrey for much more than a taxi ride. He not only knows everything about the Island, he knows everyone 264-497-4262.

Best place to meet the natives: Raffi's

Most famous local craftsman: Cheddie Richardson. Cheddie has been carving hardwood, driftwood and stone into unusual pieces of art since he was a child. The natural form of the driftwood is the inspiration Cheddie uses to create each piece--usually carvings of birds, fish and other animals. Then he spends long hours adding fine detail into every sculpture, sometimes using stains, oils and waxes to enhance the natural beauty of the wood. His studio is like a mini-museum (open whenever Cheddie is there or by appointment 264-497-6027) And Cheddie is proud to tell you about his work and never makes you feel like you should buy something, even though you will want to.

Royal treatment: If you want to know where Queen Elizabeth stayed when she visited Anguilla, it was the Sonesta Beach Resort. I think the best view is from room 201.

ANGUILLA TOURIST BOARD:
PO box 1388
The Valley, Anguilla, BWI
Telephone 264-497-2759
Fax 264-497-2710
http://www.net.ai
Atbtour@anguillanet.com

Sonesta Beach Resort Anguilla         1-800-Sonesta
Rendezous Bay West
P.o. Box 444, Anguilla, British West Indies
http://www.sonesta.com

Photos by Phyllis Steinberg
-Updated 2-19-98-
 

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