Travellady MagazineTM


Away With All Cares: Travel

Chapter 7

(This is a book excerpt Chapter Seven of The Penny-Pinching Hedonist How to Live Like Royalty with a Peasant's Pocketbook)


A good vacation is good for the soul. But not always for the pocketbook.

Nonetheless, it is possible to have satisfying travel experiences time and time again—without robbing Fort Knox. True, you may have to be somewhat flexible in your itinerary, and willing to have a different, more meaningful experience than you would on a first-class tourist trip. But when you look back on your pictures and read your diary, you’ll be really glad you did.

We’ll look first at some general travel issues, then at how to get to your destination cheaply, and how to keep the cost of hospitality down. Then we’ll look at a bunch of different ways to actually get paid for travel.

Discounts

Do you have a student or military ID card, AAA, AARP, or professional/union membership, proof of being under 25 or over 55? Many discounts on lodging, admissions, car rental, mass transit, and restaurants are available with one of these qualifications, if you just ask. So ask, at every opportunity. Some places will even allow multiple discounts, but this is rare.

AAA will also provide members with maps, itineraries, travel services, and no-fee American Express travelers’ checks.

In any price negotiation, make sure you’re dealing with someone in authority: the branch manager at a rental car office or hotel chain, for example. Otherwise, you’re wasting your breath and you won’t get the best rates. And always write down the name of the person authorizing the deal, the exact terms, and the date of your inquiry. Then, when you’re done comparing and are ready to commit, send or fax your own confirming letter outlining the agreement as you understand it—and stating that non-response constitutes confirmation by the company. It’s even better if you can get them to send a confirmation out to you, but sometimes they’ll use a standard form that doesn’t spell out the information. Bring a copy of your correspondence when you show up, and be sure to keep track of your reservation number.

If you choose accommodations at a chain hotel or motel, call the central 800 number, but also call the individual location. They may be able to do significantly better for you, especially if they’ve had cancellations or a slow season.

Also take advantage of bargains aimed at your destination’s residents. For instance, you might not think about a local transit pass, but if you stay in a city—or region—for even a couple of days and take a lot of buses, you could save money. Some transit systems offer discounts for as few as five or ten fares, and if you’re traveling with others, that number is even easier to reach. More rapid transit systems are converting to computerized farecards, which may allow discounts for off-peak travel or within a certain zone. Investigate with a call to the local transit authority before you go, and also ask to be sent a system map.

Contact the Chamber of Commerce and ask for a visitor’s packet as well as any discount coupons they may offer. And consider buying an entertainment/dining coupon book, if it’s a good value for the length of your stay (or if you expect to make several return trips). One vendor serving many cities is Entertainment Publications, 2125 Butterfield Road, Troy, MI 48084. The Chamber should be able to steer you toward others. Try to look it over before you buy, to make sure it really will save money on the kind of trip you’ve planned.

Discount Travel Clubs: Consider joining a discount travel club, which can provide a variety of savings on travel, lodging, and entertainment. You pay an annual membership and then get access to the discounts—including some spur-of-the-moment deals not otherwise available. But before you pay money, you should be sure you’ll make back at least that much in discounts you’ll actually use. Always price around on your own first, and remember to ask about other discounts for which you already qualify.

Choose Your Season and Days of the Week: Most tourist destinations have a “high season,” when prices are inflated 30%-60%, the streets, beaches and attractions are mobbed, and it can be hard to find decent accommodations. Be smart—skip the busy times and go a little before or a little after, when prices are lower, people are friendlier, and the weather hasn’t yet turned sour. This isn’t just a flying tip, either; we’ve had wonderful driving vacations in New England’s summer towns—in May, June, September, and October.

Similarly, you can save a lot depending on the days of the week you travel. If you’re going to a resort destination, you can almost always get a better rate for Tuesday through Thursday than for Friday through Sunday—because the rooms are in far greater demand on the weekends. You’ll benefit too, if you’re going to a place known for cultural events, in that there’s more likely to be free or cheap entertainment on a Wednesday or Thursday night than on a Friday or Saturday, when people are out anyway and ready to spend money. On the other hand, if you’re going to a business-oriented city with minimal nightlife and little tourist appeal, you might do better on weekends. Or, if the weekend rate is lower and you’re coming midweek, ask if you can have the room at the weekend rate. It never hurts to ask!

Luggage

Travel goes more smoothly if you have very little of it. Nonetheless, do take what you really need. Consider an internal-frame backpack that can either ride on your back, sling over your shoulder, or look like “real people’s luggage” with an attached handle. Also carry a day pack. When you get to your destination city, stow your big pack at the bus or train station while you go and look for a place to stay. (Airport checking isn’t a great idea, because then you have to come back out to the airport to get it again.)

Keep a list on your person of the contents and approximate value of both checked and carry-on baggage, as well as a list of your travelers’ check numbers and denominations, along with a photocopy of your passport, visas, and tickets. (If you have to evacuate the plane for some reason, your carry-on baggage stays behind.) Don’t put the travelers’ check list in the same place as the checks themselves. Also, leave a duplicate of that list, along with another copy of your passport and ticket, and all your credit card numbers if you haven’t registered them—or the phone number of the registration service if you have—with a friend at home (a VERY trustworthy friend), so that if your documents are stolen, you can get all the cards stopped with one phone call. (Gold credit cards sometimes offer a free credit card registry; use it!).

Pack a small amount of clothing, but make sure the various pieces work well together. For a month, I could get by on three pairs of pants, one pair of shorts (or three shorts and one pants if I’m heading for the tropics), a bathing suit, a week’s worth of underwear and socks, a mixture of T-shirts, turtlenecks, and drip-dry button-downs, one spare pair of shoes or sandals. The big space hog is layers for various degrees of cold and wet, but even then, a thin wool sweater, gloves, rain poncho, long-sleeved overshirt, and down vest can all compress easily—I can get all that into my backpack with room to spare. Figure on doing laundry once a week.

Cut down even more if you plan to buy clothes in your travels.

NEVER check through baggage anything you can’t replace. Your money, ID, return tickets, prescription medicines, only copy of your journal, spent film (in a lead pouch if it’s faster than 400 ISO, otherwise in a zippered pocket), and so forth should always be on your person (an under-the-clothes money pouch is a good investment). Demand hand-inspection of cameras, portable computers, and other fragile items.

The less you carry, the faster you’ll move through. No checked baggage means no waiting endlessly at the carousel, a much shorter customs inspection, no need to tip a porter. But obviously, if you’re going to have access to a car or a fixed base of operations, you may want to carry more than if you’re going do be vagabonding all over the place via public transit.

Do bring a small, unobtrusive camera, a journal, something to read (there will be long bouts of down time at airports and train stations), perhaps a phrase book, relevant excerpts from guidebooks, healthy but portable snacks (but only enough to get you through the initial trip), cough drops, sucking candy or gum to ease the pressure in your ears during landing.

If you’re traveling with children, make sure to have activities and snacks for them. Still using a stroller? Bring the umbrella style that can wheel right up to the gate and stow in an overhead rack; the last thing you want to do is drag a baby all over the airport because you checked your stroller as baggage. Ditto with portable luggage carts.

It is possible to rent car safety seats for rental vehicles if you plan ahead, but here I advise bringing your own. It’s worth checking a piece of baggage to save $10 per day or more for the rental, and your child will feel more secure in his or her own familiar seat.

Travel Services and Guides

On an ordinary trip involving scheduled airlines, travel agents are worth dealing with—they’re faster, better informed, and just as cheap as making your own reservations. Find a good one who will work hard to save you money. In general, though, you’ll do better on accommodations without their help. They generally work from a small list of upscale hotels, and especially in the Fax Age, it’s easy to contact hotels even overseas. Unless you expect difficulty finding a room, reserve only for the first night of your stay before you leave—or else make sure there’s no penalty for shortening the stay once you arrive. Then if you find something better or cheaper while you’re exploring, you aren’t stuck.

In my experience, the best sources of adequate no-frills lodging are the Frommer guidebooks. Make sure the rooms have heat and air conditioning; these are considered luxuries in some parts of the world. The Let’s Go series has lower prices, but they’re a little too unfussy; you might stay in a dungeon—or a dormitory full of noisy teenagers. As for what to do, the Fielding guides are excellent. But they’re also big and bulky, so you may want to read up ahead of time and take notes, or photocopy the pages you really need.

Money Changing

Converting currency is an art in itself. You want to get as much as you need, but at the same time, if the currency is decreasing in value against your own, you might get a lot more pesos for your dollar as few days later. Still, this has to be balanced against the high commissions for each money changing transaction (no matter how much you change at once) as well as how much of your precious travel time you want to spend waiting on line.

Where you change money can also be a factor. Discount rates range widely, but typically are cheapest at a bank in the foreign country, reasonable but not great at the airport, and quite expensive at a hotel. Sometimes you may be able to legitimately buy foreign currency before you leave home, or at the country you’re visiting immediately prior to the country whose money you’re changing—but stay away from the black market! Jail time is not worth the money you save.

If you get American Express travelers’ checks (no fee if you’re an AAA member), you can change money for zero commission at any American Express office in your destination country. You can also receive mail there and take advantage of other travel services they offer.

In developing countries where the economy is in tough shape, keep to small denominations. Even a $20 travelers’ check or the equivalent in local currency can be hard to change in a cheap restaurant or hotel away from the tourist itineraries.

Credit card charges in foreign currency are converted on the day they are processed—which may be several days after you make the transaction. This means that if your purchase was made in a country whose currency is decreasing against the dollar, you will pay less than you bargained for—but if it’s rising compared to the dollar, you could get burned. However, even abroad, many stores have switched to instant electronic processing, so that won’t be a factor. Credit cards also usually avoid outrageous currency conversion charges and commissions (but check with your issuing bank for their policies, before you depart).

Remember that many countries suffer under some sort of Value Added Tax, which adds significantly to the price and may or may not be already figured in. But keep track of all the VAT you pay, because some countries will refund it if you can prove the purchases were for your own personal export. Ask at the country’s nearest American consulate before you go.

A solar-powered pocket calculator can help a lot when figuring out the price of something in your home currency.

Telephones

Foreign telephones can be confusing and intimidating, especially if you don’t speak the country’s language. Dial tones and other signals may sound different, and you might not even be sure if a phone is ringing or you’re getting a busy signal. The best advice is to ask locals for help, which they will almost invariably be eager to provide. Also inquire about prepaid farecards which can save the hassles of trying to identify strange coins and feed them into the phone before you’re disconnected.

Remember to watch where you’re calling from: Hotel room phones are often heavily surcharged; even a payphone is cheaper. If possible, use a calling card for long-distance calls while traveling. It’s cheaper and more convenient than throwing a stream of money into the slot. Private phones are cheaper still, but ask the operator ahead of time what the rate will be for the call you’re making. Then you can reimburse your host.

Operator-assisted calls are almost always substantially more expensive than direct-dialed, and calls may be cheaper in off-peak hours. Toll-free numbers may be available in foreign countries, but they may start with a prefix you’re not used to. U.S. toll-free numbers are generally not set up to handle overseas calls, though some companies might accept calls from Canada, Mexico, and/or the Caribbean.

Cultural Mores

Even within different parts of a large country, acceptable customs vary widely. Behavior that wouldn’t raise an eyebrow in New York City might ostracize you for life in a small Georgia town. And respecting social mores is much more important when traveling abroad. After all, you don’t want to perpetuate the stereotype of the Ugly American. Moreover, if you’re seen as friendly and respectful of other cultures, many doors will open to you and your travel experience will be far richer and more memorable.

Learn a bit of the language, even a few simple words and phrases. I know how to say “thank you” in Spanish, French, German, Yiddish, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Arabic, Hebrew, and Hindi. I find that even saying “thank you” in Hindi to an Indian storekeeper or restaurateur in New York City brings a warm smile. Other useful expressions include “I don’t understand,” “Where is the bathroom?” “do you accept credit cards?” “I am a vegetarian,” and “How do I get to…?” If you actually speak a language—not necessarily fluently, but well enough to have a meaningful conversation—you’ll get fascinating glimpses into the real lives and views of the people you meet. I’ve had the experience of discussing the United States’ Central America policy in my clumsy Spanish while waiting on bank lines in Mexico—and of translating for desperate Americans who couldn’t make themselves understood at all.

Read guidebooks before you go. Pay attention, among countless other issues, to:

•      Modesty (particularly for women)

•      Sexual harassment (often a problem for women traveling alone)

•      Smoking

•      Alcohol

•      Littering (in Singapore, that could send you to jail!)

•      Who pays in a restaurant?

•      What kind of gifts you should bring to a host (or will bringing any gift be taken as an insult)?

•      Typical foods, and when and how to eat them (Breakfast in Israel includes tomatoes; in Spain, greasy dough sticks dipped in chocolate pudding)

•      How to admire an object without forcing the host to give it to you

•      Protocols on public transit (Do you need advance tickets? Are the schedules accurate?)

•      Cost and reliability of mailing packages (often a better option than dragging them home on the plane, although potentially a real time-consumer)

•      Public bathroom customs

•      What languages are preferred or despised?

•      What is typically too early or late to call? Do stores close at certain times? What hours are meals served? (In the U.K., if you try to have lunch after 2, you’ll probably have to wait two hours for a snack at tea-time)

•      What days are museums and tourist attractions closed? Will you run into unforeseen holidays?

You may choose to deliberately violate the customs, but at least you’ll know what you’re doing. For instance, though we’re Jewish and the buses are generally segregated, we rode a Palestinian bus in Israel (and I’ll always remember the ancient man in traditional dress who insisted we take his seat). And in Spain we cheerfully endured the mockery of local café owners in order to savor the wonderful fresh-squeezed orange juice at breakfast.

Getting There

Air

Tremendous opportunities exist for low-cost air travel—particularly if you’re flexible and spontaneous, able to move fast and disentangle yourself quickly. But even through mainstream channels, it’s sometimes possible to get a great fare. We flew to London in 1991 on a major carrier for $198 per person, ROUND TRIP—and on top of that, they gave us double frequent flier miles! A quick and inexpensive jaunt to Florida was all we needed to earn a free domestic flight. We got lucky—they were matching a new competitor’s price-warring introductory fare.

They’re less common than they used to be, but during fare war times or off season, you can sometimes find domestic flights for $85-$150 each way, anywhere in the continental U.S. We’ve used these fares to go to California twice and Arizona once.

Standby flights may also still be available, although they’re no longer the bargains they used to be, compared with are deals you can get elsewhere—and factoring in the inconvenience of not knowing until the plane is ready to leave whether you’ll have a seat on it!

Shorter hops between very common destinations can sometimes be very cheap, especially night-time “red-eye” flights. For example, the Washington-New York-Boston shuttle, New York to Florida, or Los Angeles to San Francisco.

Often, too, it’s cheaper to fly from major destinations. We recently had a short trip to Washington for a wedding on Labor Day weekend. We drove three hours to New York and took the shuttle on a two-for-one deal. It was about a third of the price of flying from our nearest airport (Hartford, still almost an hour away), and far less stress than a ten-hour drive to DC on a holiday weekend with two kids in the car! In fact, we’ve often saved $100 per ticket or more by flying out of Boston or New York instead of Hartford—and there’s a better chance of a nonstop flight between major cities, too.

Overbookings have decreased, but if your plane is overbooked and they ask for volunteers to fly later, get to the counter and investigate! Sometimes you might get a free ticket anywhere in the country, as well as a free meal courtesy of the airline while you’re waiting for a later flight—and you might only be two hours behind your original schedule.

Bucket Shops: Particularly for international travel, look into consolidators, also known as “bucket shops.” Find them in the Sunday New York and Los Angeles Times travel sections, the Village Voice, and Sunday travel sections in other major cities. You’ll know them by their tiny ads, absurdly low prices, and unwillingness to name any specific airline. (You may find good charter deals in these listings, too.) It’s probably worth contacting these agencies even if you have to pay for a connecting flight to your departure city.

Sometimes bucket shops have good deals on domestic flights too. For instance, you might be able to get a one-way fare for half of a round-trip discounted fare, even though one-way is ordinarily quite a bit more. They can also help arrange “open jaw” flights, in which you fly from one city to another city, and then back someplace other than your city of origin. And if an opportunity comes up suddenly, consolidators often avoid the petty restrictions of commercial bargain fares. Tip: get trip interruption and cancellation insurance on bucket shop tickets, because they mean it if they say nonrefundable. Read the fine print and make sure the policy will protect you from circumstances that may come up.

Special Promotions: Sometimes a supermarket or other store will offer a deal on a domestic-flight discount coupon—or the airline itself may offer a big promotion. Typically, you save register tapes until you’ve reached a certain dollar amount, then can buy a coupon for $100 or so, redeemable for a one-way ticket. These are very good deals, but only take advantage of them if you know you can use them. In other words, understand the terms and conditions thoroughly. For example, don’t expect to use these coupons over Thanksgiving weekend. And if the airline doesn’t fly to your destination city, it may not be the right promotion for you. But if you know you can use the ticket, by all means use it.

If someone has bought a discount ticket (or an undiscounted one, for that matter) and can’t use it, their bad fortune may be your good luck. Look in the newspaper classified ads to see if anyone is selling cheap tickets. Or check into airline coupon and frequent flyer clearing houses.

Flights Serving Immigrants Returning: There are many areas of Latin America, Europe and the Far East that once were home to large numbers of new Americans. As these immigrants acquire money in their new lives, they want to go “home” and visit. Pick up an ethnic paper in a city with a large concentration from your chosen destination, and check the travel ads—even if the paper is in a foreign language. If it’s Spanish, French, or Italian, you’ll be able to decipher enough of the ads to make a decision. For an Asian language, make friends with a visiting student who can translate, or ask for help at a college foreign language department. If you travel this way, you may be surprised at how genuinely friendly people are, and how willing to help you see the real highlights of their country (not just the tourist spots). Who knows? You may even be taken under your seat-mate’s wing and offered hospitality during your stay. (Of course, don’t plan on this happening—consider it a wonderful extra bonus if it does.)

Also, it might be worthwhile investigating planning an international trip from a country with low cost of living. Call a Mexican travel agent and find out the best price for a fare to Spain—it could make no difference or it could save you a bundle. But be sure you find out about applicable taxes, which can add quite a bite to an international flight.

Tour Packages: All-inclusive air and hotel packages, with or without sightseeing, may be cheaper than purchasing everything separately. Sometimes, when a resort expects that you’ll spend a lot of money once you get there, an air-hotel package can be cheaper than just the airfare. Fool them all and take a local bus to a different nearby town every day; you’ll have an American-style hotel rather than a charming local hostelry, but you’ll still get to eat, shop, and sightsee with the populace. Besides, after a hard day of touring around, you might actually appreciate that soft bed and hot shower (amenities you may not always find in cheap local establishments).

And if the airfare appeals to you, but the American-style hotel doesn’t, it never hurts to ask if you can get a discount for just getting the flight. At worst, you’ll pay the full price and get a good deal on the plane tickets, while making your own accommodations in someplace more interesting and cheerful.

Frequent Flier Clubs: Join any that don’t charge a fee, and make sure your account is credited for all airplane miles, car rental and hotel costs from participating carriers, even credit card purchases. Before considering a flight, ask about promotions to get extra frequent flier miles—and about reciprocity with your current plans. As mentioned earlier, we earned a free round-trip ticket in the continental U.S. with only two trips.

Other Bargains: A “split city” fare, in which you buy two separate round trip tickets on two separate airlines (e.g., New York to Chicago on one carrier, Chicago to San Francisco on another) may be cheaper than a through ticket—and has the benefit of a stopover, if you want one.

Since it’s often cheaper to fly from one coast to another, if you’re going to the heartland, consider a “hidden city discount.” Buy a one-way fare to wherever is cheap, on a plane that stops where you really want to go. Get off at the stopover and get rid of the rest of your ticket. Don’t check any luggage, and don’t try this on a round-trip ticket; you could end up paying some very expensive surcharges.

For late-breaking discounts, look for super-sales in newspaper business (not travel) sections. Call consolidators. And contact Best Fares for a monthly bargain listing (800-635-3033).

Be a Courier: People in the know fly as couriers, using scheduled commercial flights. They are under contract to deliver some materials, checked in as luggage. Courier companies that guarantee overnight delivery have found that checked passenger baggage speeds through customs and red tape at a far faster rate than shipped unaccompanied freight. So they provide airfares at less than their cost in order to have someone accompany the goods (usually paperwork of some sort). Some examples, as of May 1992, round trip: New York to Buenos Aires or Rio de Janeiro, $480; San Francisco to Hong Kong or Singapore, $350; New York to Copenhagen, London, or Zurich, $300; Miami to Madrid, $399; Los Angeles to Seoul, $300. Some of the courier services may also provide steeply discounted non-courier fares.

For more information on courier services, order “How to Fly Super Cheaply as an Air Courier,” by Bill Anthony of New Worlds Travel. While you’re at it, ask for his list of low-cost travel resources (including domestic and foreign bucket shops, discount cruise sources, cheap accommodations, even frequent flier coupon brokers); full ordering information is in the Appendix).

Bereavement Fares: Not hedonistic, but very practical. I used to think that if you had to fly suddenly to a funeral, you’d be stuck with a very high fare. But Rochelle LaMotte McDonald’s book, How to Pinch a Penny Till It Screams, mentions that many airlines offer reduced-rate bereavement fares with proof of death and an explanation of your relationship to the deceased.

Land

Your Own Automobile: In spite of its environmental issues, the private automobile still usually offers the best combination of price and flexibility. However, keep in mind the social and environmental costs: pollution, highway crashes, waste disposal, isolation, and so forth—and try to avoid unnecessary solo car trips. One day, the day-to-day costs of motor vehicle operation will reflect their true costs, outside of the subsidies for roads and gasoline, and then perhaps mass transit will be a more viable alternative. (Most other countries pay significantly more in fuel costs and taxes than Americans do. In fact, it’s not uncommon to pay four times as much for gasoline in Europe as we do here.)

For more on environmentalism and transit, look for my next book, Sunshine on Your Shoulders, Dollars in Your Wallet: The Lazy Cheapskate’s Guide to Living Better, Spending Less, and Helping the Earth. If you ordered this book from us, you’ll be notified when it’s available..

Meanwhile, try to fill up your seats with riders, and use other alternatives when they do make sense. If you’re going to a conference in another city, find out from the registrars if there are other people who are coming from your area. Try ride boards on college campuses to match up with either a ride seeker or an empty seat. (Look at general-interest bulletin boards too.) Your costs will be lower, you’ll have to do less driving, and your planet will thank you for thinking about its needs. But for your own protection, check references, including driving safety and police history. Also, trust to your own intuition—if you get “bad vibes” about a ride-sharing situation, don’t do it!

Other People’s Cars: Consider drive-away cars. These are vehicles that need to be transported from one part of the country to another, and for whatever reasons their owners don’t want to do the driving. Rather than having them shipped, they contract with an agency to find a driver for them. You may not have a lot of time for sightseeing, but you’ll get real cheap transportation—and maybe even something a lot fancier than you’re used to. Make sure you understand who is responsible for repair costs in the event of a breakdown or accident. In my area, they’re listed in the phone book under Automobile Transporters & Drive-Away Companies.

If you need a vehicle for a short time, either in your own area or when you’re away, renting may be the best bet. Figure out the smallest size car you need for the trip, and do some serious phone shopping of both chain and local rental agencies. Don’t forget companies with older fleets, such as Rent-A-Wreck. Always ask for the best rate, with an itemization of ALL charges, including optional insurance, local taxes, drop-off charges if you’re bringing the car back to a different office, as well as the base rate and any mileage charges. Find out if they’re offering any specials, or if you can get frequent flier miles. Ask about restrictions (for example, some rental contracts prohibit crossing a state line or driving on dirt roads!). If you find a deal you’d like but you’d rather deal with a different company, call your choice and ask if they’ll match your best received offer.

Ask about discounts for organizational membership—AAA, AARP, any union or professional association… Before you plunk down money for a Collision Damage Waiver, find out if you already have coverage through your regular auto policy or through any of your credit cards or professional memberships. Also investigate third-party CDWs (from your insurance company, or from travel services specialists), if you don’t have this coverage from elsewhere. Find out the difference in cost between the daily and weekly rate; if you’ve planned to keep a car for four days, you might actually save money by keeping it an extra day if that qualifies you for the weekly rate. Understand ahead of time how the agency counts days. Some agents will charge a whole day if you bring it back a couple of hours later in the day than you picked it up, while others only look at the date. And if you’re making connections with a commercial carrier, ask how long it typically takes to return the vehicle and get delivered to the airport—particularly if your flight is outside of normal business hours.

Hitchhiking: Although it’s an amazing budget stretcher, I do not recommend hitchhiking anymore. Back in 1976, I spent an entire summer thumbing around the U.S. and Canada. It was a terrific experience and I met some great people. It was amazingly affordable, too. My entire costs (including food, lodging, and miscellaneous) were only $100. But that was then and this is now—and even so, I had a few nasty experiences. There are just too many crazies out there!

Still, I know some of you are going to ignore me and do it anyway, so you may as well learn how to do it as safely as possible. And with 15,000 miles under my thumb, I certainly have tips to pass on.

Try, whenever possible, to travel with a partner; one person is much more vulnerable than two. This is not to be sexist, but to acknowledge reality—the best combination is a man and a woman. Two men will seem threatening to many prospective ride offerers, while one or two women might attract a dangerous element. It’s very hard to get a ride for more than two people; most drivers simply don’t have enough room.

Carry ID and a very small amount of cash. Keep most of your money in travelers’ checks. Make sure you have a rain poncho and healthy road food, stored in extremely accessible locations. Avoid torn or dirty clothing. Keep your luggage to one backpack, because you’re going to be walking with it a lot. Get the best sleeping bag you can afford, and wrap it with a waterproof foam pad such as Insolite. Attach it to the bottom of your pack with shock cords. Consider a small, lightweight, easily assembled tent. NEVER carry anything illegal! If you take prescription medicines, keep them in their original, labeled bottles.

The hitchhiker’s best friend is a pair of wide-tip permanent markers. Make signs instead of using your thumb. Make a sign for a large destination on or close to your route, but not more than 200 miles away. Or one that just says “West Coast” or something similar. The letters should be easy to read from a moving car at 60 mph. I suggest at least 8 inches high and two inches wide, done in bright red but outlined in black. Old cardboard boxes for signs are freely available in dumpsters or by asking storekeepers.

If your intuition tells you to stay out of a particular car, LISTEN TO YOUR FEELINGS! It doesn’t matter what excuse you invent, but don’t get in.

Consider taking a self-defense class before your trip. If you get uncomfortable in a situation, either because of bad driving or bad vibes, demand to be let out immediately. (Try to keep your luggage with you instead of in the trunk, so if you do have to leave, you don’t lose your possessions. If you do use the trunk, memorize the license plate number.)

Stay away from the backs of pickup trucks, unless they’re outfitted with seats and seatbelts. It’s too easy to get thrown. If you’re offered a ride on a motorcycle, only accept it if there’s an extra helmet for you.

Sooner or later, you’ll be questioned by the police. Be scrupulously polite, show your ID if asked, and answer questions in a straightforward manner. Don’t object if your bags are searched, even if you don’t think it’s justified. The important thing in this situation is just to get through it as quickly as possible so you can be on your way again, whereas if you alienate a police officer by quoting the Fourth Amendment, the officer will find some excuse to haul you in—with major consequences for the continuity of your trip, and possibly a good deal of time, money, and hassle.

Speaking of time, figure on an average of no better than 20 miles an hour for highway hitching. When you do better than this it’s great, but you will have to plan on spending a lot of time waiting.

There are definitely good and bad places to hitch. Rest areas are the best, because they allow you the chance to actually talk to people and ask for a ride, and because most travelers who pull into a rest area are going a considerable distance farther. So once you’re on a highway, try to get dropped off at the rest area before the driver’s exit.

Connector ramps between two major highways are also excellent.

On turnpikes, hitch the ramp before the tollbooth. Once you’re past the gate, you’re highly illegal and will be thrown off. (Turnpike rest areas are okay, but only if you’re outside the door, talking to people—not standing on the on-ramp.)

For most other limited-access highways, your best bet after a rest area is on the shoulder, just after the exit turn-off. But use this spot only if: oncoming drivers have good visibility (their view of you is not blocked by a curve or a sign); there is room to pull over and stop safely on the shoulder behind you—no bridge abutments or very close on-ramps; you are aware and alert enough that you can get out of the way—and have a place to go—if some idiot tries to sideswipe you. If the shoulder isn’t suitable, go to the beginning of the on-ramp, where cars are moving slowly and there’s room to pull over easily.

NEVER hitch an on-ramp at the point where it’s about to merge—no one can stop safely. And NEVER hitch at night. It’s hard for people to see you and the security risk is much greater.

Look for safer and more reliable alternatives to hitching, including college ride boards, newspaper ads, etc.

Bicycle: In a big, congested city, a bicycle is actually faster than a car for trips under about five miles—and you can park it against any street sign or parking meter! All you need is a good lock, helmet and maybe a water bottle—and it’s fun, too. Many cities, including Beijing and Amsterdam, actively encourage bicyclists—and more American cities (Boulder, Colorado; Davis, California; Cambridge, Massachusetts) are putting in bike paths, racks at transit stations, and other amenities. Even in smaller towns, bicycling makes sense for trips of two miles or less.

If you’re in good shape, a bicycle can haul quite a bit of gear. An acquaintance of mine bought an industrial delivery bicycle with a heavy duty frame; he hand-built a large towing trailer. He has carried loads of 150 pounds! In fact, he uses this rig every year to deliver telephone directories. In his own town, he can do a route just as fast as a driver—and one year he even had a route eight miles from the delivery station.

Bikes can also be used to go big distances, although obviously not as rapidly as other forms of transportation. Still, even a beginning cyclist can easily do 25 miles in a day; at between 8 and 15 miles per hour, that’s as little as an hour and a half or as much as 3 hours, 8 minutes. More practiced cyclists will not be tired after a hundred miles a day over flat ground, or half that in the mountains. That means it’s actually feasible to bike from New York to Philadelphia for a weekend—or give yourself a leisurely 45 days to bike from California to Washington, DC and you’ll have plenty of time to sightsee, wait out rainy days, and make new friends.

Bus and Train: Bus is often a cheap, but not terribly enjoyable, way to get from point A to pint B. Trains are typically more expensive, but considerably more comfortable. You can walk around, stretch out your legs, read easily, even sleep without too much discomfort.

In either case, talk to a travel agent about good deals that might be available. For instance, Amtrak often has promotional fares all across the country. There are three zones, bounded roughly by the Mississippi River and the Rocky Mountains. You can go anywhere in one zone for a rock-bottom fare, cross into the second zone for a slightly higher rate, or go all the way across the country for somewhat more. Thus, it might cost no more to go from Boston to New Orleans than from Boston to Albany. Sometimes they allow a stopover, so you can actually play tourist in two cities for the same price. Advance purchase is usually required, and the tickets are for a specific day. But they can often be exchanged if you need to shift your itinerary.

In situations where there is more than one carrier, compare prices and schedules. There may be more variation than you’d think.

If you’re doing a lot of travel, think about purchasing a bus or rail pass for unlimited travel over a specific length of time. Compare these costs carefully, though; they can be more expensive than just buying the tickets you want. Look at international passes, too—but always ask whether you’ll get a better deal buying before you to or once you get there. We bought a pass allowing (if memory serves me correctly) four train trips anywhere in Spain within two weeks—and by careful planning and supplementing these long trips with cheap, short-distance intercity tickets bought separately, we were able to see quite a bit of the country. But in Mexico, we found the local fares were so cheap it didn’t pay to buy a package deal. And when we went to Wales, where public transit was sparse, we chose to rent a car—arranged before we left—so that we could go where and when we wanted to go.

Bargains for Eurailpasses as well as country-specific passes may be available for larger groups (even as small as three), or for youth or elders. Order a copy of Budget Europe Travel Service’s European Planning and Rail Guide, or buy a railpass (800-441-2387).

Sea

There was a time when savvy travelers sailed on freighters, either paying deeply discounted rates or serving as crew members. However, those bargains are pretty much over. Freight ship traffic is containerized and often has no passenger accommodations at all. And itineraries/schedules may be, uh, flexible (to put it charitably). Even if you do find a berth, the shipping lines have realized they were practically giving away a marketable commodity, and it may not be any cheaper than a berth in a passenger ship. Still, you’ll have the fun of an intimate voyage with perhaps 6-12 passengers plus crew, maybe even dinner with the captain. Book way in advance. Look in the Appendix for resources.

Huge cruise discounts are available; Bill Anthony’s travel packet (see Resources) has a list of discount cruise agencies. Also try showing up at the dock, ready to board, and seeing what you can negotiate for an unsold berth.

If you’re in a port city, you may be able to experience a one-day cruise for a very small investment—it’s a great way to decide if a larger cruise is anything you’d be interested in. For instance, Miami to Freeport, Bahamas is a one-day cruise often priced under $100. In New York, you can take the Day Line on a one-day cruise up the Hudson River—or the 3-hour Circle Line sightseeing boat around Manhattan.

Also consider some other kinds of waterfront experiences: whale watches, harbor cruises, water-borne city sightseeing tours (in Paris or Venice, for instance), bayou or river excursions out of New Orleans…

Where to Stay

Homestays and Home Exchanges

In my subjective but experienced opinion, the very best places to stay are in other people’s houses—either with or without the occupant.

We’ve been members of a wonderful international homestay organization called Servas (the name is Esperanto for “to serve”). Servas, a world peace organization whose goal is to break down barriers between cultures, has members in over 90 countries. Both hosts and travelers are screened by the central organization, through a network of regional representatives. Members pay annual fees to travel and/or host (you may do either or both), but pay nothing for the actual visit, except to reimburse the host for expenses such as long-distance calls. Prospective visitors contact hosts through a directory, which lists languages spoken, occupation, special requirements regarding smoking, diet, pets, etc. Typical visits last two nights and usually include breakfast and/or dinner (depending on your arrival time, of course). Hosts have no obligation to spend time with you during the day, but if they’re available, they’ll often show you the high spots. Hosts may decline any visit.

We have stayed with Servas hosts in Paris, all over Wales, in several locations in Israel and Mexico, in Spain, Montreal, and in dozens of homes in the U.S. And we’ve had visitors from Germany, Israel, Australia, Denmark, Sweden, the U.K., and other parts of America. We’ve met some wonderful people, some of whom we’ve maintained contact with over a period of years—there was one really memorable visit from a family we’d stayed with in a remote part of Wales; they came well out of their way to look us up and spend a fabulous day with us. We’ve also been shown or directed to the really interesting parts of the places we visited, places we probably would not have found on our own.

Our strategy: we mix people who seem similar to us with those who are quite different, but might be interesting to learn about. Also, we’ll break up Servas visits with campgrounds or hotel rooms, because the pressure of being “on” every night can be a lot to take on an extended trip. And often, we aim for hosts who haven’t had a lot of visitors; they’re generally warmer and more eager to cherish the experience. Especially in major destinations, we contact hosts well in advance.

Admittedly, not every Servas visit works out. We’ve met some grumpy hosts and had a few inappropriate visitors. But it’s well worth putting up with a few flawed visits in order to get the richness and warmth of true person-to-person traveling. Also, such an organization can’t be expected to be your entire source of hospitality. In a nine-day visit to Spain, it happened that along our itinerary there were Servas hosts only in Seville. And sometimes even when there are hosts, their lives are too busy and they aren’t able to put up visitors. For instance, although many are listed, we weren’t able to locate a host in London for the days we needed one. So we found a bed-and-breakfast a couple of hours into the English countryside.

Exchanges: For longer stays, a home exchange doesn’t provide personal connections or the ability to draw on a host’s knowledge of the area, but it can provide a comfortable, fully furnished base of operations—as well as housesitting services while you’re away.

Basically, you stay in someone’s house while either the same or a different person stays in yours. You can either set one up yourself (the skinflint approach) or arrange one through an organization and pay some fees, but avoid the hassle of matching, screening, etc.

In this situation, you may be better off going through the organization and shelling out the $50 or $75. Otherwise—without wanting to be overly pessimistic—do make sure you protect yourself. If you don’t go through an organization, think carefully before you do this, because there are all sorts of factors that could ruin your experience if you don’t set yourself up to avoid them. After all, strangers are staying in your home, and you in theirs.

Consider, and address in a written and signed contract, some of these issues: Will the guest have use of your car, and will your insurance cover this? Do you have computers, an expensive stereo, or irreplaceable antiques—what happens if they are damaged? Will you allow smoking in your house? How will you collect long-distance telephone costs? Are children involved, and if so, will they be using your kids’ toys? What happens if a major emergency repair is needed? Are your guests allowed to have guests? What standards of cleanliness and order do you expect on your return? Also, leave detailed instructions about garbage collection, care and feeding of plants and pets, condominium association requirements, town parking rules, etc. Check references. Move important papers to a safe deposit box. Collect a security deposit.

Still, it is certainly possible to have a good experience—and you’d have to deal with these concerns in any housesitting agreement. One way of minimizing problems is to exchange with friends. Perhaps you can even schedule some overlap, so you get to have a visit as well.

Failing this, figure out your area’s most desirable attributes and market them in a classified ad in the local newspaper of the town you want to visit. You may find a jaded big-city dweller is happy to get two weeks of peace and quiet in a small town, or a suburbanite is eager to experience big city life in your apartment.

It may also be possible to rent an apartment or house at your destination. For example, you can rent an apartment in central London for a week or longer from Big Ben Apartment Rentals, 92 Roebuck House, Palace Street, London SW1 (01-828-5219). Contact the American offices of foreign tourist boards, or the tourist office or Chamber of Commerce in your destination city—but don’t save this for the last minute! Remember, if you have access to kitchen facilities, you’ll pay a lot less for food than if you eat every meal out.

A detailed list of homestay, vacation rental, and home exchange agencies is in the Appendix.

Hostels

You don’t have to be young to participate in American Youth Hostels—though you do have to be pretty flexible about where you sleep, drag your own bedding around, and observe house rules such as early curfew and unmarried couples in separate dorm rooms. Some hostels do have a room or two for married people, but don’t make the assumption that such a room is available—hosteling is designed as a group activity.

Still, within these limitations, you get a really cheap place to stay—in major cities and rural resort areas all over the world—and the fun of meeting and exchanging stories with travelers on exciting journeys. It’s not unusual to meet people backpacking around the world, or bicycling across a continent. In the U.S., you can even buy a temporary membership for a night or two—and credit the temporary fee toward the cost of a full-year membership.

I’ve stayed in hostels in the U.S., Canada, and Israel. Some are members of the various international associations and will honor your AYH membership, others are independent.

In the last ten years, there’s also been a trend to design hostel programs specifically for people of retirement age. These “Elderhostels” typically offer housing, food, and a themed program lasting a couple of weeks. For example, in my area, the National Yiddish Book Center runs an elderhostel every summer on Yiddish culture and language. Typically, you get a lot for your money, and the accommodations are considerably nicer than hostels aimed at students.

Camping

A small investment in camping gear can drastically lower the cost of vacationing, at least during the warmer seasons. State and national parks or forests are often great places to camp, if you don’t mind roughing it. You get, typically, a campsite and access to a cold-water bathroom. Maybe a hot shower, if you’re lucky. But the advantages are enormous: amazing scenery, a good possibility of seeing exotic wildlife, and, often, a camping experience unmarred by loud boors in big vehicles playing obnoxious music and getting drunk all night while you’re trying to sleep. Prices are low too—often under ten dollars and sometimes as low as three. Those that take reservations fill up weeks ahead; many simply provide campsites on a space-available basis on the same day, and they sell out quickly.

Commercial campgrounds range in price. Check out distance between sites (more is better), and try to stay with the tenters rather than amongst RVs.

Finally, you may be able to pay a few dollars to the owner and camp in a field, wooded area, or other privately owned parcel. Do be sure to leave the place at least as clean as you find it, so the owner will not feel “burned” when the next person asks.

En Route

With careful planning—and if you don’t do it too often—you can sleep between the long legs of your journey. Sleep will be often interrupted and not very restful, but you not only save the cost of a hotel, but also spend your waking hours at your destination instead of getting to it.

Look for an all-night run of at least seven hours, arriving no earlier than around 6 a.m. Remember that you will be forcibly awakened on land transportation every time you cross a frontier. Do a full day of touring before you board, so you’ll be tired enough to sleep through the frequent distractions.

Trains are the best, especially the newer ones that start and stop very gradually. You may even sleep through the station stops. It’s worth investigating the cost of a sleeping car, but I’ve always found it too expensive to try. Still, the seats usually recline, and if the train is uncrowded you may be able to stretch out. Planes and buses are less comfortable (and prone to frequent interruptions as people brush against you, flight attendants hand out all sorts of junk, and so forth).

We’ve used this often to maximize our sightseeing time—for instance, sleeping on the way from central Spain to the southern part of the country. But once, we got badly burned. We took a night bus across several Mexican states. It was supposed to arrive around 7 a.m. in our destination city—and since Mexican buses are not noted for promptness, we were expecting to arrive between 7:30 and 8 a.m. To our shock and terror, the maniacal driver threw the bus around precarious mountain roads in the Sierra Madre; it was pretty impossible to sleep through the vertigo and the worry that we were going over a cliff. We arrived in Oaxaca at around 4 a.m., completely frazzled and exhausted—and then we had to find a hotel at that hour! We tried a half dozen where no one even bothered to answer the door, and finally, in desperation, took an overpriced place where they were slamming doors all night long.

In spite of this one disaster, I do recommend this as a strategy, especially if you don’t expect to enjoy the scenery if you saw it in the daytime.

College Dormitories

More than 1700 colleges will put you up cheaply, if they have room. While space may be limited to just a few rooms during the school year, in the summer there might well be many vacancies. As an added attraction, many campuses host fascinating conferences, and you might be able to check out some of the lectures or cultural events if one is happening during your stay. Winter break is probably less likely, since many dormitory buildings are closed during that time. Some colleges may put you up for free or at nominal cost if you are interested in applying there—but be truly interested, because you’ll be expected to take a tour and ask pertinent questions.

Bed and Breakfasts/Guest Houses

Quality and price vary tremendously, according to season, location, operating costs, and other factors. We’ve paid as little as $13 a night, and we’ve stayed in (but not paid for) a $200 per night B&B. We usually pay, as of this writing, $40-$60 for the two of us, and slightly more if our kids are along.

Each has its own personality. Some are charming, some are squalid. Breakfasts may be gourmet fare, or pancakes out of a mix. But the innkeepers and other guests are both usually convivial, and it’s far more pleasant, by our standards, than a sterile motel.

If there’s a B&B reservation service in the area you’re visiting, they’ll probably help you get a good match if you specify what you’re looking for.

Cabins and Cottages

Again, prices and quality fluctuate greatly. We’ve had good experiences with furnished and unfurnished cabins, typically for at least a one-week stay, in such diverse locations as northeastern Maine, northern Minnesota, and the Colorado Rockies.

Sometimes motels or campgrounds offer a few cabins as well. And other times you can get a bungalow in a resort community, with the added bonuses of a recreation room, outdoor play equipment, swimming, tennis, etc. Also investigate better deals renting directly from a cabin owner. Larger cottages are great to share inexpensively with family or friends.

Hotels and Motels

You can pay a great deal or hardly anything to stay in these establishments. This is one situation, too, where it makes sense to watch the billboards along the highway, where a very good price might be advertised And to some degree, it depends on what kind of traveler you are. If you’re sightseeing or driving all day and just want to roll in for your eight hours of shut-eye, all you really need is a decent bed and plumbing that doesn’t leak. But if your day revolves around the swimming pool, the health club, the exercise room and the nightclub floor—or if you need business-oriented facilities such as fax service or ISDN phone lines—spending more money on accommodations may save you money in the long run.

We tend to go for basic. And sometimes, basic is surprisingly cheap. For example, we stayed at an admittedly raunchy motel in Flagstaff, Arizona—the nearest city to the Grand Canyon—for the princely sum of $13 a night. It turned out to be a bikers’ hangout, and the courtyards and corridors were populated by tough looking people in leather jackets. But the bed was fine and it was even reasonably quiet, and the price was lower than at nearby campgrounds..

Since independents vary a lot and you don’t want to pay even a buck for a spongy bed, leaky roof, and no heat, try to do a little bit of research. Often, the clerk at a tourist information booth will be able to steer you toward habitable but inexpensive accommodations. Both AAA’s (free to members) and Mobil’s campground and hospitality guides rate lodgings. And of course, Frommer and other travel guides can help out. Still, all of these will be subjective; your best bet might be to arrive early enough to check out several places before they fill up.

And don’t forget the discount motel chains. You’re assured of a clean, well-kept room in good condition, there’s more likely to be a pool and other amenities, and you can make a reservation ahead of time through a national toll-free number. If you do reserve ahead, always write down the confirmation number, name of the person you spoke with, date, price, and cancellation policy. If there’s no penalty for a last-minute cancellation and you find a better deal along the road, you won’t be stuck. But if a day’s notice is required, you won’t waste your time looking for bargains that night. Good deals can often be found with these companies:

•      Comfort Inns

•      Days Inn of America

•      Econo Lodges of America

•      Hampton Inns

•      Motel 6

•      Roadway Inns

•      Susse Chalet

•      Super 8 Motels

•      Travelodge

In the U.S., hotels tend to be fancier than motels, and may include unwanted and expensive “amenities” such as valet parking. However, most big cities do have a few decent independent hotels left—and in other countries, an independent hotel or pension may offer the best combination of value, location, and perhaps a delightful personal touch. Check them out carefully, though. Many of the once-grand American inner city hotels are now flophouses with no decent facilities, tawdry rooms, and often, high crime.

Strategies for chain hotels and motels include calling ahead to both the national and local office, going through consolidators, asking about every discount available, and exploring packages from travel agents.

My father suggests booking through an organization that’s having a convention at the hotel of your choice—even if you don’t attend the convention, you may be able to register for your room through these groups at a substantial discount. Plus, you’ll know the dining rooms and amenities will be filled with people who share an interest, and thus you’ll have lots of conversation starters.

And now for the best part…

Get Paid for Your Vacation!

Saving money on travel is great, but it’s even better if you can find a way to generate income (and tax deductions) from your wanderings. You can still use all the bargain tips you’ve just read, but let some money come back in, too.

Be warned: if you’re working abroad on your own as opposed to through a company, you’ll probably need to arrange for work visas and permits. Don’t neglect this, even if it seems like a pain, since penalties for violating local currency and work rules can be quite harsh.

As usual, I won’t try to be comprehensive here, but let’s look at some possibilities. Feel free to add your own creative ideas. Meanwhile, see if your skills match any of these areas.

Communicate

Do you have skills in writing, music, photography, videography, and/or radio? Put them to good use on the road.

Freelance Travel Writing and Photography: I’ve done travel writing (sometimes accompanied by my own photographs) for years, and have earned money from many of my vacations through published articles. Travel writing is more than destination pieces—look for angles wherever you find them. For instance, my frustration as a vegetarian in New Orleans led to an article in Vegetarian Times; my initiative in interviewing Israeli peace activists convinced In These Times not only to run my coverage, but to hire me for a related piece the following year on an American Jewish peace activists’ convention in Los Angeles. (And while I there, I researched an article on getting around L.A. on the public bus and sold it to the Boston Globe.)

There’s also a good market for adventure travel stories, profiles of distinguished foreigners, traveling with children, etc. Do be advised that it’s a very tough market. Even with my 600 published articles, I’ve only sold a couple of dozen travel stories (out of a few hundred that I’ve queried about).

Once you’ve broken in with a clip or two, investigate your local chapter of the National Writers Union and consider subscribing to Travelwriter Marketletter (Robert Scott Milne, editor, c/o the Waldorf-Astoria, Suite 1850, New York, NY 10022). Not only will you get juicy and fresh information on markets, but also lots of good information on “fam tours,” in which travel writers are lugged around to familiarize themselves with all the high spots, with free room and board usually included. On one of these fam tours, Dina and I got to stay in a $200 a night bed-and-breakfast with a magnificent view of the ocean, eat at several of the best restaurants, take private tours of several major attractions, and get two narrated harbor cruises. The only cost to us was the money we spent when they turned us loose for two hours in the shopping district—and five bucks worth of gas to drive there and back.

Not a bad way to spend a weekend!

Chambers of Commerce and tourist information centers can also provide contacts, and sometimes fam tour information. If you publish a story, send them a copy; if you’re researching a story, call up and ask questions or try to get photos. Either way, you’ll get on the list.

Lots of doors open for you in this field. I have a writer friend who contacted the consulate of a country he was going to visit with his wife, a professional photographer. They were able to arrange free air transportation, discounted lodging, and some good deals on outdoor recreation.

Also, many tourist attractions will provide free or discounted admission to the press, and sometimes a guided tour, along with lots of background information. Call the museum or attraction a day or two before you want to visit, and talk with the person in charge of press relations.

Be aware that many prestigious travel markets, including the New York Times, won’t touch a story from a writer whose travel has been subsidized. But that’s okay; hundreds of other markets won’t mind.

Be a ”Stringer”: If you live abroad, try to work out an arrangement with a media source back home to have you do news or feature articles (or audio or video features). You’ll get a regular byline and a small stipend, and again the prestige and benefits of being part of the press. Electronic media don’t just need reporters, too. You could be a camera operator, lighting person, or other “techie.” An acquaintance works a camera for ESPN; he sees more live professional sports than anyone I know.

Work for Clients That You Meet: A photographer, videographer, portrait artist, or caricaturist should be able to earn money providing services to ordinary people. Oral histories, season’s greetings, and similar jobs can provide a comfortable margin to travel on. People are always flattered to buy something about them and their families.

Cover a Road Beat: Charles Kurault, the television journalist, is but one famous example of someone who made a career out of traveling around the country, reporting oddball stories for the media. Jack Kerouac wrote several novels that were barely disguised recountings of his life as a freeway hobo.

Steve Roberts, another full-time nomad, has lived since 1983 on a gigantic recumbent bicycle outfitted with computers, solar collectors, cellular telephone, alarm systems, and assorted other high-tech gear. His income results from field testing the equipment for electronics companies and writing about his experiences. He publishes a newsletter, freelances in the bicycle, computer and electronic press, and has written various books—and he’s constantly interviewed by local media as he travels through, so he’s able to publicize his money-making activities and give the manufacturers (who donated expensive equipment) an extra publicity benefit. This is an example of creating a niche that no one else can fill, and filling it.

Sing for Your Supper: “Buskering,” playing music on the street, is a time-honored profession. And street performing is not only for musicians. Tricks like fire-eating, sword swallowing, magic acts, dance, even story-telling—if you can make yourself heard in a crowd—can all earn pocket change and perhaps strike you up some new friendships, offers of hospitality, and so forth.

It’s good to have an act that’s a bit different. Some successes of my acquaintance: a hammered dulcimer player ran out of gas and money 100 miles from home on New Year’s Eve. In spite of the cold, he started playing—and got invited to perform at a party, where he not only earned his way home but also got dinner and avoided frostbite… My daughter has a six-year-old friend who plays violin regularly in lucrative 15-minute shifts… A musician from England landed here and parlayed her street singing into the beginnings of a professional club career… I once encountered an Andean quartet playing in a major New York subway station; the acoustics of that echoing hall resonated well with the airy flutes and panpipes, and their donation case was overflowing.

Of course, there are failures too. I once went out as an observer with a friend who led a brass quintet. He has several records out, but when they played the streets of Cambridge, the take that night was about $2 per musician.

Foreign musicians may be perceived as more interesting and exotic, and thus you may be more successful away from home; sew a flag of your country on your jacket or put a large decal on your instrument case so people will know immediately. Do investigate permits before you haul out your instrument. Some cities have strict limitations on where and how you can perform.

Of course, if music is your career, you can expect to do a lot of work-related traveling. But try to arrange your touring schedule so you actually can tour. Going from hotel to stage to car and back again is not a life. But if you can spread out your gigs so you have a couple of days to explore before you go on, you’ll get to know the places you pass through—and you’ll be a lot less tired!

Teach…or Learn

There is a big demand in foreign countries for people who can teach English to non-native speakers. It’s the world language of business and a major language in many other venues, so there’s a constant demand. If you’re a native speaker, you can easily offer private classes and individual lessons, or affiliate yourself with a school of some kind. I know several people who landed year-long jobs in China or Japan, teaching English. Similarly, if you’re fluent in, say, Japanese, you can teach Western business people the Japanese language and culture. Or you may have other business skills to teach, such as running popular business computer programs or accessing on-line information services. Seminars are a huge market, and many popular speakers spend large chunks of time on the road, going from city to city and getting handsomely paid for it.

You may be expert in a sport or recreational activity. Teaching that is an enjoyable way to spend a vacation; most ski resorts are staffed at least in part by ski bums willing to work for low wages in return for unlimited access to the slopes. The same technique can be used to provide your fill of tennis, rock climbing, kayaking, etc.

Being a tour guide is a different kind of teaching. You can lead wilderness expeditions, develop a historical and architectural tour of a destination, or get a job doing outdoor education at a nature center or Upward Bound-type program (teaching wilderness skills to hard-boiled inner-city kids and teenagers). Or get a job (full-time, part-time, or just during work vacations) with a commercial tour company.

Many universities have foreign exchange programs, and if the program is a large one, there will be a need for American workers at the foreign site: teaching, coordinating logistics, translating, and processing paperwork. Foreign universities may need an expert for a specific project covering a semester, a year, or longer.

Of course, if you’re still in school as a student, it’s certainly worth your while to investigate these exchange programs as a participant. Even some high schools, as well as various colleges and summer camps, have work exchange programs, where you might be placed on a farm, in a logging camp, or at a historical museum. And if you’re interested in things ancient, participate in an archaeological dig.

Regular Job, Unusual Location

Depending on your expertise, many jobs may be available to you either on your own or through a corporation or government agency. During the aftermath of the Gulf War, Texans specializing in putting out oil well fires were in hot demand in ravaged Kuwait. Construction jobs may be available with American companies building new plants or offices, and hiring at home. Translators—good ones—should never have a problem finding work. Neither should carpenters, plumbers, or electricians. And anyone familiar with opening a new location should be in demand as corporations sprout branches in every corner of the world.

Do you have expertise in preparing a regional or national cuisine in an institutional kitchen? You may find a job at a restaurant abroad catering to the culture you know.

Import-export is a growing business area requiring skilled workers to investigate manufacturing plants and suppliers, cut through customs red tape, and generally smooth the process through frequent travel. International banking and finance also offer opportunities. And government agencies reach out to these communities in a big way, so consider becoming your governor’s liaison to Eastern Europe, for instance.

The Travel Industry

Obviously, airline flight crews get to travel a great deal. And so do railroad, shipping company, or bus company personnel, truck drivers, and freight operators. And others involved in the travel industry, while not constantly in motion, need to stay current. Travel agents, reservation service operators, tour planners and others get big discounts on travel, and may be eligible for fam tours of the sort described under travel writing a few pages back.

My father enjoys singles weekends at expensive resorts. He affiliated himself with a group that does several programs a year, and volunteered his time to lead rap sessions on being a happy older single. In return, he got a free weekend each time he led a session, including a basic room, all meals, and full access to swimming, tennis, and other facilities.

As he built a following, he organized a reservation service, making a commission on each one of his clients who booked a room. He built it up to a lucrative sideline before turning it over to me when he retired.

Also, some corporations might need a travel coordinator, responsible for shopping for great deals on airline fares, hotel rooms, and rental cars for company personnel.

Do you have connections with a musician, author or speaker who travels? You may be able to get a job as a personal assistant, doing secretarial work, setting up sound and lights, coordinating engagements, driving, and generally making yourself useful. A local massage therapist in my town did some work for a concert promoter, providing massage to the stars before or after their local gig. As a result, she once accompanied Madonna on tour as her personal massage therapist, on call 24 hours a day.

Missionary and Military Service

There are hundreds of organizations, including religious groups, the Peace Corps, the Red Cross, and private nonprofit agencies focused on appropriate tgchnology, sustainable agriculture, or grass-roots economic development, that will place you somewhere in the world as a technical assistant, educator, or similar service worker. Obviously, it helps if you have some specialized skill useful in a developing country. But even if you don’t, you could be trained in appropriate technology, light construction, or other needed skills. These are typically long-term positions of one to five years, with subsistence pay but exposure to a different culture of a sort almost unequaled by any other kind of travel experience—and free transportation, of course.

Some well-known organizations include Pueblo to People, Witness for Peace, the Agency for International Development, Food First, and of course, the service organizations of virtually every religious denomination.

Military service may get you abroad, but there are a number of risks. First of all, you completely give up control over your own destiny. You go where and when you are told, no questions asked. Second, you may be putting your own life in danger, or be required to attack others. Third, you’ll be living a sequestered life in the barracks, with far less exposure to civilian life than in most other travel/work situations; you may even be despised by locals. If this is the option you choose, make sure to get some professional counseling and talk to veterans who’ve been through it. I am only mentioning the option here to let you know it wasn’t omitted by accident—but for the hedonist on a budget, there’s got to be a better way!

And speaking of better ways, let’s look at how to beat the rat race entirely. Stay tuned!

Copyright 1999 By Shel Horowitz. All rights reserved.

Updated -2-13-99-

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