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Eating in Beijingby Carole S. KotkinBeijing today is a city in the midst of change. In the years since
the People's Republic opened China to the West twenty years ago, Beijing has acquired an
up-to-date luster. It has become a city of women in mini-dresses, jazzy make-up and high
heels, of men in business suits and sports clothes talking on cell phones. Japanese
taxicabs honk their way through hordes of cyclists. Signs advertising all sorts of
products hang in every street. "There is a resurgence of many aspects of Chinese life
among them, the arts, education and especially economic matters-- and the result has been
an accelerated modernization of a country that had long resisted the influence of the
outside world. By the early 1980's, gastronomy and even epicurism were no longer
counterrevolutionary, " says noted Chinese cookbook author, Ken Hom. He goes on to
say,
Beijing's restaurants have at last caught up with its gastronomic history. In this commercial capital of China, the cooking of the northern region with all its inherent elegance is there for the eating. For visitor and resident alike, such cooking has become more accessible and more pleasurable with the recent openings of several luxury hotels that are committed to excellent and authentic cooking served in elegant settings.
In the past several years there has been an awakening of interest in this very old cuisine of Beijing, from which it seems all Chinese culinary trends now proceed. The ingredients for the following recipes are available in Gables or South Miami supermarkets or in Asian groceries nearby. Tea is the most popular drink in China. Luk Yu, a Tang dynasty Master of Tea, wrote that drinking tea aids the digestion, especially "when sipped in the company of sweet and beautiful maidens in a pavilion by a water-lily pond or near a lacquered bridge. Most tea drinkers will not be so fortunate, but as long as the tea is good they may be willing to make allowances. In the Chinese tea ceremony, the miniature cups and teapot are doused with scaldingly hot water; tea is then placed in the pot and boiling water added. After an appropriate interval, the tea is poured and drunk at once. There are many varieties of Chinese tea, and though jasmine tea is usually served as a matter of course in restaurants, you could ask for black, fragrant green, linden or magnolia tea instead.
All Chinese restaurants provide diners with chopsticks and a spoon. Very few restaurants furnish forks and of course knives are not needed for Chinese food. Confucius said it was uncivilized to have knives on the dining table. Chopsticks can be awkward at first. Perseverance is needed to get the technique right, but a Chinese meal is best enjoyed with them, and the two sticks can be surprisingly agile in practiced hands. The bottom stick is the "anvil", held firmly between the first joint of the ring finger and the lower thumb, while resting in the crook of forefinger and thumb. The top stick is held like a pen between the tip of the thumb and forefinger and pivots against the lower sticks. Spicy Stir-Fried Pork with Rice Noodles This works well with chicken or beef. If using dried noodles, soak them first in warm water for 20 minutes. Heat the wok; add the oil. When oil is hot, stir-fry the meat over high heat for about 45 seconds to 1 minute. Remove the meat and set aside. Add the black bean sauce, bell pepper and onion, stir-frying for about 45 seconds. Add noodles and stir-fry for about 45 seconds. Return pork to the wok; stir in the jalapeno, sesame oil, soy sauce, oyster sauce, salt and sugar. Stir fry 45 seconds. Serve immediately. Makes 2 servings. Steamed Red Snapper with Ginger and Scallions Any fish served whole, from head to tail, symbolizes good luck to the Chinese. The sauce and seasonings complement the delicate flavor of the fish ideally. 1 whole red snapper or yellowtail (1-1/2 pounds to 2 pounds) cleaned, head and tail
left on Wash the fish with cold running water and pat dry. Lay the fish flat and score it crosswise at 1-inch intervals from neck to tail on one side of the fish. Sprinkle it with salt. Place the fish, scored side up, on a heat-proof serving dish that will fit in your steamer or wok. Mix together the sauce ingredients and pour it over the fish. Arrange the seasonings along the top of the fish. Fill the steamer or wok with water to a depth of 2 to 3 inches and bring to a boil. Set the prepared fish on a rack over the water. Cover tightly and cook over high heat for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the flesh in the thickest part at base of the score marks is white. Serve at once. Use the score marks as a helpful way to lift the fish from the bone. Serves 6 if part of a meal with other courses or 2 to 3 as a main course. Stir Fried Chicken with Peanuts The chicken can be cut up and tossed with its marinade ahead of time. The vegetables and the sauce can also be prepared ahead. Chicken marinade: Combine marinade ingredients in a bowl. Add chicken. Marinate, covered, at room temperature 30 minutes or refrigerate overnight. Combine sauce ingredients in a 1-cup liquid measuring cup. Soak the Chinese dried mushrooms in hot water for 20 minutes, discard stems, and slice into thin strips. Remove strings from snow peas and cut them in half diagonally. Organize all ingredients near stove. Heat a wok or large skillet until hot. Add oil; heat until ripples form. Stir-fry chicken over high heat until pieces turn white, about 1-1/2 minutes. With slotted spoon, remove to toweling to drain. There should be 1 tablespoon oil left in wok; if not add fresh oil. Reheat oil and add seasonings. Stir fry over high heat 15 seconds. Add sauce; stir-fry until mixture is thickened. Add chicken and peanuts; toss lightly to coat. Serve immediately. Serves 6 if part of a meal with other courses or 2 to 3 as a main course. This article first appeared in the Coral Gables Gazette. Beijing International Club: 86-10-6522-7611 Photos by Carole Kotkin |
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TM
"Today
private gardens are once again supplying fruits and vegetables in abundance, private
restaurants and food stalls are becoming commonplace, and culinary institutes and cooking
schools are flourishing. The long pent-up demand for quality foods and ingredients
is slowly being met." Private business is thriving and it is shrewdly welcoming
Japanese and Western capitalists in joint ventures to help turn a barren socialist
wasteland into a consumer society. Big Mac attack? No problem there are 37
McDonald's in Beijing, along with Pizza Hut, Baskin Robbins, Hard Rock Cafe and
TGIF. The
capital is acquiring all the advantages of a major international metropolis, including a
restaurant sector well able to satisfy the tastes of tourists, business travelers and
foreign residents. 
To
experience the pleasure of Chinese food completely, it is not enough to choose something
comfortingly familiar, such as sweet-and-sour pork, hoping that will taste the same as in
the neighborhood restaurant back home. It may well do so, but this misses the point
of a Chinese meal, with its yin-yang balance of flavors, textures and ingredients. The
foods from Beijing are satisfying indeed, with sharpened, direct flavors that Westerners
undoubtedly will find pleasing. 
With
cold winters, a short growing season, and a relatively arid climate, northern China
developed a cuisine based on wheat, millet, and soybeans. Northern cooks developed wheat
pancakes, like those that accompany their famous Peking duck, and thin wheat skins for
meat-filled pot-sticker dumplings. Modern Beijing (Peking) chefs are proud of their
hand-pulled noodles (lai mein) said to have originated in the north during the Han dynasty
some 2000 years ago, shortly after the technique of flour milling reached China, via
India, along the new Silk Road between what is now Afghanistan and Xian. Trade along this
route, which took silk robes to the Roman emperors and much later brought Marco Polo from
Venice, enriched the northern provinces with herbs, fruits, vegetables, and spices. 
At the
Yuen Tai restaurant on the 21st floor of the Great Wall Sheraton, a master noodle-maker
twists, kneads and bounces a rope of dough, doubling it back over itself again and again,
until almost magically, it turns into a single, long strand, which the noodle maker holds
wrapped around and between his hands, like a skein of yarn. The chef of the Chinese
kitchen, Zhao Chuan Quing, who has mastered the regional cuisine's of China,
creates spicy Sichuan preparations, like hot and sour shark fin soup and braised mandarin
fish with chili bean sauce. Just as fine is his version of Peking Duck (Chengdu Smoked
Duck). In the 1800's a young entrepreneur took the centuries-old court secret of
separating the skin of the duck from the flesh by pumping air between them to release the
fat during roasting, and brought this royal feast to the restaurants of Peking. As a
result, hardly a visitor to the Chinese capital has returned home without sampling this
unequaled delicacy. The crisp skin and succulent meat of the roasted duck are cut thinly
and eaten in pancakes along with spring onions, cucumber and sweet plum sauce. 
In the
kitchen of the luxurious brand new ITT Sheraton Beijing International Club Executive Chef,
Franz Dajcman prepares a seven course Emperor's Dinner. As he deftly arranges the
ingredients for Steamed John Dory Fillet on Beluga Champagne Cream, he discusses the
migration of Western ingredients to the Asian kitchen: "For centuries cooks
have been borrowing ingredients from other cultures. In Asia there is a true fusion where
ingredients complement one another beautifully. European chefs working in Asia have
a sure understanding of European ingredients and techniques and a palate that has been
refined in Asia. They are creative but disciplined." Out in the Great Hall the table
is set and guests are invited to don Qing Dynasty costumes before being shown to the
tables by waiters costumed as palace guards. Chef Dajcman's New Asian cuisine features
lobster sashimi, grilled Beef Medallion with Parma Ham and Goose Liver on a Light Truffle
Red Wine Sauce, Polenta, and Fresh Mango and Chocolate Mousse. 
Away
from the broad boulevards of Beijing on the outskirts of the city hides one of the most
exclusive restaurants in the world. It has one table. The Li Family Restaurant is
run by mathematics professor Li Shan-lin whose grandfather was Minister of Household
Affairs for the Imperial Court (his job was to oversee the official tasters for the
dowager empress CiXi) and left him a legacy of recipes. His daughter, armed with these
imperial recipes, won first place out of 3,000 contestants in a national cooking
contest held in 1984. After that, Li Shan-lin decided to open a restaurant in his small
home located down a narrow street in a hutong (a walled alley way community). Li
Shan-lin cooks Mandarin fish in a recipe favored at the turn of the century by the dowager
empress Cixi; he stir-fries it over the wood fire with ginger, garlic, scallions and
garden herbs. He also stir-fries a sweet-and-sour fish with green peppers, bamboo
shoots, ginger, vinegar and sugar. Li Shan-lin's batterie de cuisine is limited to a
small assortment of well-used woks, steamers, and standard pots with which he creates
various wheat-flour dumplings filled with vegetables, pork, or shrimp, adding a bit of
egg, minced ginger, and bamboo shoots. He also makes special dumplings and salads. 
"To
touch the heart" is the literal translation of dim sum, the quintessential breakfast
or brunch. Steamed in bamboo baskets or deep-fried, the ravioli-like
dumplings, buns, pancakes and other dishes that comprise dim sum are made with hundreds of
different filling variations, including shrimp, pork and sweet pastes. The repertoire of
dim sum is endless. Typical dim sum houses are far from restful places; the press of
people is vast and the noise level high. Waiters push heavily laden trolleys through
the press.