Best of Boston

From history to lobster, world-class city struts its stuff.

by Randy Black

Sightseeing

But there’s more to Boston than Harvard and the USS Constitution. Lots more.

The Boston Pops orchestra has recently begun its 114th season under the baton of 39-year-old Conductor Keith Lockhart. Lockhart, already in his 5th season and with more than 250 concerts under his belt, follows in the footsteps of John Williams, winner of five Oscars and composer of the scores for more than 80 films including Saving Private Ryan and Star Wars. And who can forget the legendary Arthur Fiedler, conductor from 1926 to 1979. As a reporter, I interviewed Fiedler in 1976. He was exactly what I’d expected: old, temperamental, and very aware of his personal fame. At the end of a brief interview, I asked permission to take his photograph. He said, “Be quick about it.” I shot two frames and he stated, “That will be enough young man.” Fortunately, it was. To this day, it seems that Fiedler’s spirit haunts the old Boston Pops Music Hall.

The famous Boston Museum of Art is hosting a summer long John Singer Sargent art festival. Sargent is perhaps America’s finest landscape artists, although his portraits are also legendary.

Duck tour

To get the best view of Boston’s skyline, take the famous “Duck” tour. The fully narrated land and water tours take place in authentic WWII amphibious vehicles that are driven through the historic streets of Boston, and then slip quietly into the Charles River for a wonderfully relaxing view of the city. There’s no better way to learn about Boston and see the city.

The Freedom Trail

Boston offers a well-thought out, self-guided Freedom Trail walking tour through the city. The best place to begin is at Boston Common, the city’s largest and oldest park.

The self-guided tour takes you to 16 historic sites in the course of about four hours. Wear tennis shoes. From Boston Common, you’ll follow a painted red line or row of red bricks along the sidewalks, through 250 years of Boston history. From cemeteries to old churches to Bunker Hill, you’ll catch the spirit of America’s revolutionary history. Ask your hotel’s concierge for a walking map of the city, it’s free. Or visit the city’s website The Freedom Trail.

Stop along the way for lunch at the historic Quincy Market, or down the road at the Old Union Oyster House restaurant, America’s oldest restaurant dating to 1825. The mood is definitely seafood, local beers, casual and expensive. Fresh lobster at the Old Union Oyster House runs in the $25-$30 range. It’s worth it.

The New England Aquarium

A really fun diversion while in Boston is a visit to the New England Aquarium. The aquarium is home to many endangered species of water creatures. The focus of the aquarium is “on raising people's awareness of the environment through exhibits, education programs, public forums, and outreach programs.”

Where to stay

If you’re on a budget, don’t go to Boston. Stay in a good hotel. Don’t cut corners. There are no inexpensive choices in the center of the city since most of the “name” hotels offer prices beginning at $250 per night plus taxes.

Le Meridien Hotel

One of the best hotels, according to various rating organizations, is Le Meridien at 250 Franklin Street, in the heart of the business district and near everything. The chain is famous for its French ambience, 4-star cuisine and outstanding locations throughout the world.

Boston’s Le Meridien Hotel, while providing a great central location in the old, but remodeled Federal Reserve Bank, and the expected great cuisine in its Julien restaurant, also provided a few shortcomings during my recent six-night stay.

The housekeeping and room service were substandard. During my entire stay, my $300 per night room was not properly cleaned or serviced. The negative experience was shared by colleagues in two nearby rooms. Additionally, room service failed to retrieve a dining cart pushed outside by a neighbor from 11pm the first night until 4pm the following day. The really unforgivable sin was experienced with the concierge. I was so enamored by my initial visit to hear the Boston Pops (tickets obtained on my own), that I requested assistance with tickets for a subsequent visit, two days later. The concierge-in-charge stated, “Please don’t ask me to go to the trouble if you’re not committed to purchasing the tickets. Tickets to the Pops are time-consuming and expensive to obtain.” As a veteran traveler, I could have done without her scolding. My resulting letter of concern to the General Manager on the 4th day resulted in a letter of apology and a complimentary tin of cookies delivered to my room in my absence. Unfortunately, the hotel’s bellman left my room unlocked upon his departure. So much for good intentions.

On a more positive note, the hotel’s Julien Bar offers the best atmosphere and perhaps the best drink I’ve ever experienced in North America. Located on the mezzanine, the richly appointed bar features masterfully painted mural size oils, surroundings fit for a king, flawless table service and an absolutely perfect bartender. Ask for the Bellini Martini ($7). Even if you don’t care for gin, you won’t be disappointed with the super-cold gin and peach schnapps mixture served in a perfectly shaped crystal glass.

Marriott Long Wharf Hotel

Located at 296 State Street but facing Boston Harbor, this Marriott is everything one would expect from a large chain and more. Most of the 400 rooms feature a view of the harbor. And while the hotel’s location would seem to attract mostly tourists, in fact, the hotel boasts an executive floor and 110 rooms designed specifically for business travelers with the requisite modem hook ups and separate meeting rooms. The Marriott is conveniently located to the Financial District, all local tourist points, and is within walking distance of the New England Aquarium.

Boston is a wonderful city. It’s almost impossible to do justice to this destination in such a short space. Check out the travel bargains on the Internet and make a reservation soon. You’ll be glad you did. So will your kids!