Travellady MagazineTM


Cumbres and Toltec Railroad

New Mexico & Colorado

Article and Photos by Dave Shultz

There's something about an old fashioned steam railroad that's hard to put your finger on.  The ride is rough, noisy, and slow but I promise you'll enjoy every minute of it. 

Spend a day on the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad that runs from Chama, New Mexico to Antonito, Colorado and you'll get a sense of what train travel was like a century ago.  This is the finest remaining example of the original Denver and Rio Grande narrow gauge line and it's known as "America's longest and highest narrow-gauge steam railroad."  This railroad was built in the 1880's to serve the miners and loggers in the area and originally ran from Alamosa through Antonito and Chama to Durango and Silverton, Colorado. 

64 miles of incredible scenery made this trip through the San Juan Mountains one to remember.  We departed from the Chama, New Mexico station in the morning but not before I'd had plenty of time to walk up and down the track admiring the beautifully restored passenger cars.  The journey took us through pitch black tunnels and over high narrow trestles and the track runs near the Los Pinos River which was in spring flood stage while I was there.  Herds of magnificent elk grazed along the route as the period train cars rocked and swayed through the turns.  We stopped halfway to Antonito, Colorado at a way station named Osier to eat lunch and look at the scenery.  Even though it rained and even hailed during parts of the trip but it didn't dampen anyone's spirits. The scenery was magnificent in any weather.

There are actually two trains that run every day. One leaves Chama, New Mexico and one leaves Antonito, Colorado at the same time.  They meet in the middle at Osier where everyone eats lunch.  You have the option of riding to midway and then returning to your point of origin.  If you continue on, you ride a bus back.  The trip from Chama to Osier is definitely the most picturesque.  The trip on to Antonito is a much more flat and high desert landscape.  I'm glad I went the full trip but when I do it again, I'll do the southern half and back only. 

People on the train are friendly and you can wander through the cars to visit with different groups or go to the open observation car for an unobstructed view.  I found solitude standing between cars, swaying slightly and watching the landscape glide by.  You can almost imagine the years melting away and taking you back to a time when travel was done in leisure.  This is an adventure you'll never forget. 

Daily operation of the train is from late May to mid October.  If you are going at the beginning or end of the season, call ahead to make sure the snow has been cleared and the train is running.

For information

http://www.cumbrestoltec.com/
Cumbres & Toltec 
P.O. Box 789 
Chama, New Mexico 87520 
(505) 756-2151
or... 
P.O. Box 668 
Antonito, CO 81120 
(719) 376-5483

-Updated 7-17-99-

 

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