^TM

From Tree to Table

by Carole S. Kotkin

Italian olive oils, like Italian wine, has finally captivated an American audience. Perhaps our continuing fascination with  foods from Italy and the possible health benefits of including olive oil in our diet have awakened America's taste buds.   Mediterranean countries have enjoyed the rich variety of flavors, aromas and delicious tastes that olive oils impart to food for at least 6,000 years. Italians take their wines and olive oils very seriously.  Just ask noted cookbook author and native Florentine, Giuliano Bugialli, who replies, "Bread, wine and olive oil are the heart of Italian regional cooking ." Olive oil, a true artisan product, that Bugialli calls "a gift from God"  is an indispensable ingredient in the kitchen.  Besides being used for cooking, a bottle of extra-virgin olive oil sits proudly at the dining table to drizzle on salads, toasted bread, pastas or  soups. Each of the 20 different regions of Italy has its own unique varieties of grapes, olives, cheeses, pastas and specialty dishes.  Though two regions may be just an hour apart, each province proudly clings to the distinct differences that separates their gastronomy  from those of their neighbors.

The world's most flavorful and elegant olive oils are produced in Italy's northern province of Tuscany, where Chianti Classico wines are also produced.  Wine and olive oil have had a long marriage here,  sharing  geography, climate, and soil (terroir)  for literally centuries. Many of the best Tuscan wine estates produce some of the regions best oils, among them Frantoio di Castello di Volpai and Castello di Cacchiano. Lorenzo Righi, director of Agricola San Felice  proudly states, "We are dedicated to an ancient tradition-the growing of vines and olives of only the highest quality." The skill that goes into making extra-virgin olive oils is every bit as precise as the expertise that goes into winemaking.   Like wines, most olive oils are blended from several olive varieties to assure consistency in taste from year to year and to provide a distinctive character to the oil . Among the olives grown in Tuscany  are Frantoio, Pendolino, Leccino and Moraiolo.  The Frantoio olive, for example, gives structure and a fruity flavor to the oil just as the Sangiovese grape does in Chianti wines. Other olive varieties complement the Frantoio, adding notes of polish and refinement. In other parts of Italy olive oil is being made almost exclusively in large factories, but here in Tuscany, you will still find small private mills, "molinas"  or "frantoios" that closely approximate the antique methods that are fast disappearing from the scene. In his book, Foods of Italy, Giuliano Bugialli recalls,   "When I was a child, my brothers and I were allowed to join the farmers in the olive gathering," "Our job was to collect the fruit that fell by accident from the baskets held by those picking from the high branches. We almost didn't mind the first cold weather (harvesting takes place in November and December), because we could anticipate the roaring fire in the room with the huge stone press and the warm oil in which we would dip pieces of bread lightly rubbed with garlic and toasted over a wood fire.  Father would probably have been upset if he had known that we also joined the farmers in washing the fettunta (the toasted bread slices) down with the young wine pressed only two or three months before." The timing for harvesting of the olives is crucial, and depends on the type, altitude, weather and degree of ripeness, just as with grapes.  Nowadays, at the private mills, olives are hand -picked or allowed to ripen and fall onto nets beneath the trees to prevent bruising. Bruised olives begin to ferment and oxidize,  producing a high- acidic oil. Using a vibrating machine to shake the olives off the trees is a common technique,  but the resulting oil is of lessor quality.  Harvesting is done in Mid-November in the Chianti Classico area to ensure that the oil will have a fruity flavor and low acidity. The oil is made from both green and black olives that produce an oil with a distinctive peppery taste. The cool climate in this region ensures that olives ripen slowly and flavorfully, but because of the climate, every 30 years or so olive trees are hit by a freeze. The most recent freeze was in 1985, killing most of the Tuscan olive trees.  The trees were cut down, and it has taken until this year for the roots to grow and for newly planted trees to produce a yield equal to that prior to 1985.  After harvesting, the olives are quickly  processed. The olives are crushed into a paste by two huge vertical granite wheels or a steel mill. The olive paste is spread on large fiber or nylon disks,  layered one on top of the other, dozens high, with a steel plate between every few disks and squeezed by a hydraulic press yielding a mixture of oil and vegetable water. Before bottling the oil is usually filtered through either cotton or cellulose resulting in a soft and delicate oil. Another method that is gaining in popularity is the "continuous cycle" method. Olives go in one end, oil comes out the other.  This more modern technique uses extrusion devices and centrifuges-a more efficient process which mimics the traditional method. No heat or chemicals are used in either method. The oil is separated from the vegetable water and  transferred to huge terra-cotta urns called "orci"  or stainless steel containers and  allowed to settle before it is bottled.  The oil from this pressing qualifies as extra virgin oil and must contain less than 1% acidity; the lower the acid,  the higher the quality oil. Unlike the winemaker who converts grape juice into wine,  the olive oil maker's objective is to retain the character of the olive. Following in the footsteps of Italy's thriving wine industry,  members of  Chianti Classico's Extra Virgin Olive Oil Consortium (Consorzio Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva terre del Chianti Classico) are producing extra virgin olive oils in quantities to meet the U.S. demand for these oils.  All oils have to be tested by the Conzorzio before being exported to guarantee their quality and to assure consumers that they have been produced within the borders of Chianti Classico.  Until recently, there was no assurance that a bottle of oil labeled "made in Tuscany" contained olives grown in that region; it could have contained a blended oil from many countries or regions. To determine if an oil is estate bottled, look for  the wording "produced and bottled by" on the label.  Neither "produced" nor "bottled", when used alone, signifies estate producers. In an effort to stop deceptive practices, members of the Consortium like San Felice, Castello Il Palagio, Castello di Volpaia, Podere Cogno, Frantoio del Grevepesa,  and  Castello di Cacchiano,  are identifying their olive oils with Chianti Classico's black rooster and an appellation of origin, similar to the D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) used for wine .

A couple of years ago, only a few brands of olive oil were on the market.  Literally dozens of brands are available today, and many people are becoming as choosy about their olive oil as they are about fine Burgundy.  Unlike wine, olive oil does not get better as it ages. Estate bottlers usually print the year of production on the label. A closed bottle kept in a cool, dark place should remain in good condition for about 1 to 2 years after date of purchase and once opened it should be used up since the flavor will deteriorate over time. Never refrigerate olive oil.  Tasting many different olive oils will determine the ones you prefer. Indeed, olive oil tastings have taken on the serious nature of wine tastings , using wine terminology  to describe olive oils: the nose (mild, mellow, fruity); the taste (nutty, zesty, peppery, sweet, rich, buttery,  assertive); appearance (clarity, cloudiness, color) . Indeed, in the great extra-virgin olive oils these flavors can be as complex as those in a fine wine.    Bugialli compares choosing olive oils to choosing perfume, "It depends on personal taste.  What do you like?  Arpege or Chanel?" Italian regional olive oils have been embraced so enthusiastically by Americans, it wouldn't be surprising if restaurants will soon be presenting an olive oil list along with the wine list!

Giuliano Bugialli, who runs a cooking school in his country home near Florence,  says, "Italian cooking is a idea that exists only outside of Italy.  Italy has twenty regions, each with their own cuisine."  Extra virgin Tuscan olive oil is green and peppery, perfect for using in hearty dishes such as these that follow. Here's the holy trinity of Tuscan cuisine-bread,  wine and olive oil.

Fettunta or Bruschetta with Tomatoes
Adapted from Giuliano Bugialli's Foods of Italy.

It's called "fettunta" in Tuscany and "bruschetta" in Umbria, but both names mean a thick slice of country bread toasted over a wood fire , in the oven or on the grill,  and anointed with extra virgin olive oil. Fettunta is eaten as a snack or appetizer.

18 pieces crusty Italian bread, 3 x 2 ", 1" thick (may be purchased at artisan bakeries)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half
18 fresh basil leaves
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 large ripe but not overripe tomatoes (about 1 pound total weight)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees, or heat grill.  Place the pieces of bread on the shiny side of a piece of aluminum foil or directly on the grill, and toast them for 10 minutes on each side, or until nicely browned.  Then rub both sides of each slice with the cut garlic.  Arrange the basil leaves on a large platter; then put the pieces of bread over them.  Warm the oil in a small saucepan over very low heat for 5 minutes. Do not allow it to boil.  Immediately pour the warm oil over the bread.  Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste.  Cut the tomatoes horizontally into 1-inch thick slices; then cut each in half.  Place 1 half-slice of tomato on top of each slice of bread and serve immediately.  Serves 6.

Pappa al Pomodoro (Bread Soup)
Adapted from Giuliano Bugialli's The Fine Art of Italian Cooking

This is one of the most characteristic dishes of Florence for simple home dinners or in trattorie. Though considered a soup, the consistency is not liquid at all.

3 large garlic cloves
1/2 cup olive oil
pinch of dried hot pepper flakes
1 pound very ripe tomatoes, fresh or canned
1 pound Tuscan white bread, several days old (may be purchased at artisan bakeries)
3 cups hot chicken or meat broth
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 to 5 leaves basil

Chop the garlic coarsely, then place in a stockpot along with 1/2 cup of the olive oil and the pepper flakes.  Saute very gently for 10 to 12 minutes.  Cut the tomatoes into 3 or 4 pieces, remove the seeds, and add them to the pot.  Simmer for 15 minutes.  Cuts the bread into small pieces and add to the pot along with the broth, salt, black pepper, and whole basil leaves.  Stir very well and simmer for 15 minutes longer, then remove from the heat, cover and let rest for 1 to 2 hours.  When ready to serve, stir very well and place in individual soup bowls.  At the table, sprinkle 1 tablespoon of the remaining olive oil into each serving, and grind some fresh black pepper into each bowl.  Serves 4.

Pasta con Pangrattato (Pasta with Garlic and Bread Crumbs))
Adapted from Giulianno Bugialli's Bugialli on Pasta

2 large cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 pound dried short tubular pasta such as penne
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
*3 tablespoons unseasoned bread crubms, preferably homemade
salt and freshly ground black pepper
25 large sprigs Italian parsley, leaves only, coarsely chopped

Boil pasta according to package directions.  Meanwhile, place a small saucepan with the oil over low heat, and when the oil is warm, add the garlic and saute for 2 minutes.  Do not brown.  Add the bread crumbs, season to taste with salt and pepper, and saute until the bread crumbs are slightly golden, about 1 minute. When the pasta is ready, drain and transfer it to a large warmed serving dish; pour the oil with the garlic and bread crumbs over, toss very well. Add the parsley and serve.

*Process pieces of white bread  in food processor or blender until crumbs are made.  Serves 4 to 6

Umbria:

Some of the best restaurants of Italy are in the cities, but many are to be found in the rolling hills of the countryside.  About a 2 hour drive from the hustle and bustle of Florence lies the gray-green landscape of Umbria and the hill town of Torgiano. This is the domain of the Lungarotti estate, producers of what is considered to be  the finest wine and olive oils in the province. Lungarotti is a family affair-Giorgio Lungarotti created the winery in 1962; step-daughter Teresa, the first woman in Italy to earn a degree in enology, is chief enologist; and the family owns and operates  Le Tre Vaselle, a five-star restaurant that offers a chance to indulge in Lungarotti wines and to discover traditional Umbrian foods that arrive fresh daily from the Lungarotti farm. The charm of The Lungarotti Wine Museum, founded in 1974 by Giorgio and Maria Lungarotti,  is in itself worth a short detour from your itinerary. Housed in a 16th century mansion, the museum provides a fascinating insight into the history of Italian wine. Spend a few days in Lungarotti's country inn,  La Bondanzina, an enchanting renovated 19th century country house. While you are there, join Tre Vasselle's chef, Angelo Franchini for a customized cooking class available to groups of twenty or more.  For information call Anna Maria Palomba at 39-75-988-0447.

Cooking in Italy:

At the Malvarina Country Inn, only 2 miles from Assisi, home to some of the world's finest art and architectural treasures,  there is that perfect mix of spectacular scenery, unbelievably good simple food, and enchanting surroundings. Set deep in an olive grove, Malvarina Country Inn is an agriturisimo ( a farm for tourists) that allows visitors to experience life and food in the Umbrian countryside. Guests feast on a seemingly endless array of rustic, regional dishes made almost exclusively with products grown on the farm.  In Malvarina's large farm-style kitchen, owner, Maria Maurillo-Fabrizi (who also bottles her own wine, olive oil, honey and preserves) offers cooking classes based on the freshest and best-quality ingredients available. "Olio extra vergine d'oliva", says Maria, as she liberally drizzles just-pressed olive oil onto a slice of toasted bread, "is the essential characteristic of Umbrian cooking".  This sums of the simplicity and quality of Umbrian and Tuscan cuisines  that make them so appealing and so satisfying. For information on Malvarina, contact Gabriele's Travel to Italy, 507-287-8733.

Combine food, history and art  at Giuliano Bugialli's "Cooking in Florence" cooking school.  Classes are held in a renovated centuries old farmhouse in the Chianti Classico wine and olive oil country just minutes from the heart of  Florence. Bugialli, who established the first Italian cooking school to be taught in English over twenty-five years ago, is one of the leading authorities of Italian cuisine on both sides of the Atlantic.  After morning classes in Bugialli's stunning state-of-the-art kitchen, and lunch created by the students; there are field trips to to  Bugialli's favorite markets, restaurants, vineyards and olive orchards. Packed into this whirlwind week are side-trips to scenic Tuscan hill towns, not usually visited by tourists. Of course, there is plenty of time to shop in the fashionable boutiques of Florence.  His students know him as a scholar and a warm, dynamic teacher who generously shares his knowledge with them.

For information about "Cooking in Florence" call 212-966-5325 or fax 212-0601.

Spend a few days in Lungarotti's country inn,  La Bondanzina, an enchanting renovated 19th century country house. While you are there, join Tre Vasselle's chef, Angelo Franchini for a customized cooking class available to groups of twenty or more.  For information call Anna Maria Palomba at 39-75-988-0447.

This was adapted from an article written for Wine News magazine.

Photos by Carole S. Kotkin

Back to TravelLady Magazine