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LOUNGE LIZARDS AND OTHER THINGS
FOUND ALONG ALABAMA'S BEACH

EXCERPT FROM "ALABAMA THIS WEEKEND"
by LYNN GRISARD FULLMAN

by Lynn Grisard Fullman

An American flag, standing atop the Flora-Bama Lounge, whips in the breeze blowing from the Gulf of Mexico.

Seeping from inside are the sounds of music - jazz and country, rock and blues.

Three young men, walking straight as arrows and wearing the dress white of the U.S. Navy, pile from a small car.

A couple with sandals and sunburned faces hold hands and head toward the music. A lone man on a motorcycle stops and heads toward the door.

A police officer stops traffic along Highway 182 to allow visitors to descend upon this legendary place, a spot made famous in the 1960s when football great Kenny Stabler proclaimed it, ``the best watering hole in the country.''

This is the place, as someone observed recently, that you can holler ``Bubba'' and 15 people will respond.

It's a place where you can wrap your head with a roll of toilet paper and nobody notices or cares.

Out front, there is a package store, but most people go beyond that counter to follow the music and witness the legend.

A landmark since the 1960s, this lounge straddling the Alabama-Florida line, is neither plush nor formal. In fact, it's rustic, with raw wood framing some of the rooms, unmatched tables and chairs, and bar stools scattered here and there.

Out back, beyond a maze of rooms that seem to have been added on by a kid with tree-house-building skills, there is a boardwalk leading to the beach. Generally, though, only the romantic wander that far; for it would be a crime, somehow, to come here and not be a part of the action.

WHY THEY COME

People come here to watch other people. Some dance, some roam outside and inside and outside again. Others snuggle close at a bar. Some peel boiled shrimp, and a few seem challenged to see how much they can imbibe.

You don't visit the Flora-Bama for its looks. You visit because it is a place of world renown, a place that each January holds a Polar Bear Dip and each summer hosts a mullet toss.

Neither is for the weak of heart.

Those who gather for the annual January dip jump into the cold gulf waters. Only the no-guts, no-glory kind of folks need to participate.

During the summer, when the weather is much more inviting, contestants stand on the Florida side of the beach and see who can throw a mullet the farthest into Alabama.

Open every day of the year, the Flora-Bama was immortalized in a Jimmy Buffett song dating to 1984: ``...Go on down to the gulf and listen to some western music, Gonna get ourselves a cool one at the Flora-Bama...''

The lounge-turned-tourist attraction was built in 1964, two years after Florida completed the coast road connecting Perdido Key and Orange Beach.

As crowds increased, construction began, with the addition of a back room, a side room, a raised room. There is no method to the madness, but it doesn't much matter. What matters is that the additions have made space for more people.

Although the Flora-Bama is the area's most noted lounge, there are others, including the Pink Pony which stands at the edge of a boardwalk dotted with places to eat, meet, laugh, and drink.

OTHER BEACH WONDERS

By night, these are the places to catch the flavor of the Gulf Coast.

By day, one of the best ways to feel this region is on a sailboat.

It's a simple thing, actually. You gather whatever you  want to  take along for a several-hour boat trip, and you head to the bay where there are several businesses which sponsor excursions.

My trip was a lucky one, climaxed after several hours with an incredible sunset, a huge ball of orange that slipped down and down and down, growing brighter and more orange as it tumbled out of sight.

Alabama's 32 miles of beaches appeal to those who love nature and the sun, the outdoors, and water sports. Others are drawn by the fresh seafood, the places to escape with a good book while listening to the lulling sounds of the surf.

Many assemble because they have discovered the public beaches with their boardwalks, picnic areas, and bath houses. {

Nature lovers revel in the Bon Secour National Wildlife Refuge which has more than two miles of beach front accessible by nature trails.

ONE GREAT PARK

Six miles west of Gulf Shores, the 6,200-acre oasis of wildlife at Bon Secour offers fresh and salt water fishing and four miles of walking trails.

The 6,000-acre Gulf State Park, which has received Family Circle's prestigious Family Resort Award of the Year, has more than two miles of beach and a long pier jutting into the Gulf. There also are camp sites, picnic areas, and boat ramps.

In Gulf Shores, there are options for those wanting activity. Beach rental companies all along the shore offer jet skis, wave runners, catamarans, and boogie boards. All you need are your towel and suntan oil. And, your camera.

With Alabama's Deep Sea Fishing Fleet located at Orange Beach, more than 100 boats are available for charter. Seasoned captains know where and when the fish are running, and all boats are equipped with electronic fish-finding devices.

For some, sticking to the shore can mean sun worshiping or exploring on horseback. Or, if you prefer off-beach activities, there are bike and mo-ped rentals and plane or helicopter rides.

Families keep busy with miniature golf, up-close wilderness adventures at Zooland Animal Park or the slides and rides of Waterville, USA. In addition, there is the fast-paced action of The Track, a family recreation center.

Because of the coastal area's mild year-round climate, golf is a popular attraction with plenty of places to tee off.

SLEEPING AND SHOPPING

Those who prefer shopping are happy here. Souvenir and gift shops abound and are complemented by sportswear and fine fashion boutiques. Just 10 minutes from the beach is an outlet mall with more than 100 factory stores.

With more than 7,000 hotel, motel and condominium units, Gulf Shores has just about every kind of accommodation. Luxury hotels and condominiums stand side by side with beach houses - some weathered, some crisp and contemporary. Together, the structures paint a horizon that is both homey and inviting.

ALWAYS ON MY MIND

On days when rain drizzles and sunshine seems forever removed, I remember the sailboat ride in Gulf Shores, the sunset, the breeze that nuzzled my hair and life's cares seem to blow away. And, when I want to think of those places that make life interesting, I remember nights at the Flora-Bama.

For details on Gulf Shores or Orange Beach, contact Alabama Gulf Coast Convention and Visitors Bureau, P.O. Drawer 457, Gulf Shores, AL 36547; phone 334-978-1510 or 800-745-SAND; www.gulfshores.com

CRANE HILL PUBLISHERS 800-841-2682

Milton Fullman

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