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THE GOURMET OLYMPICS

by MADELYN MILLER

While much of the world watched the Olympic Games in Norway, participated in another type of "Olympics" in Carmel, California, the Masters of Food and Wine.

Since 1987, top chefs and wine makers from around the world have gathered for what has been described as an international culinary summit. Chief negotiator on balancing the wines and foods was cellar master Mark Jensen of the Highlands Inn which presents the event.

In sold-out luncheons, dinners and cooking demonstrations the chefs dazzle the diners with remarkable combinations that showcase their culinary skills. Simultaneously, the world's finest winemakers provide participants with insight and enjoyment of the rarest vintages. This year, German winemakers Fitz Hasselbach and his wife Agnus of the Weingut Gunderloch in Germany shared a coveted two cases of a wine of which only ten cases have ever been produced. Baron Eric de Rothschild brought a bottle for sampling that was over 80 years old.

Each meal was created by four chefs and complimentary wines were served. I was there for all six days of this gastronomique extravaganza and my palate (and waistline) will never be the same. In fact, the first dinner I ate away from "The Masters" (as it is fondly called) was at a fabulous, famous restaurant. And everything tasted just fine. After four days of meals prepared by several chefs, if a dish didn't deserve an "ooh" and "aah" and a standing ovation, it was a bit of a let-down.

My favorite dish was Dean Fearing of the Mansion's venison and walnut dish at the opening luncheon. Cellarmaster Jensen told me that Dean had changed the original dish by reducing the pepper so it would not compete with the wine. Even days later, people were comparing that dish to others -- making it a new standard in a situation where everything was a standout.

Many participants agreed that the "East Coast" luncheon was the best combination of dishes and wines. I'll never forget Todd English of Boston's Olives Restaurant's soup -- a creative combination of potato, porcini mushrooms, marscapone and shaved truffles topped with parmesan. That luncheon also had an interesting situation where two competing Washington, D.C. chefs helped each other prepare signature dishes. Patrick Clark, chef of the May Adams Hotel boned duck breasts for Jeff Buben of the trendy Vidalia. And Jeff wiped off plates for Patrick's signature lobster polenta dish.

How can anyone eat so much wonderful food? There are regulars who have attended each of the eight year's delicious extravaganzas. I met a couple who were married at the Highlands Inn last year and planned their wedding banquet to be a table of friends at the grand finale dinner. And planning is key for anyone wanting to attend the event. Some meals are sold out months in advance.

The opening event is a bistro-style buffet tasting that helps bring the total of guests to more than 1,000 international participants annually. Many of those are food professionals, journalists and sponsors who are favored with one of the 150 seats at each meal.

At the seated meals, the impeccable service is clock-style, a technique that has the effect of a choreographed ballet. Lavender-shirted waitpersons holding a plate in each hand surround every other seat. At a signal, they lean forward and place the dish down with a fluid motion, and then do a two-step to the left. At the next signal, they place the second plate, and then file out rhythmically. This same synchronized technique is used to clear plates. I had never seen this type of service, but was told that it originated in Russia.

At each meal, at least 2,000 glasses are used for the wine. And Lufthansa flies in hundreds of cases of wine from all over Europe.

The best bargain of the event was the Truffle Luncheon. At $85, one actually ate more than the fee in truffles, whose current market price is over $400/lb.

Although the meals range from $70 for the opening night to $175 for the grande finale, if you are a serious foodie or wine connoisseur, you won't find a better value anywhere. The Highland Inn offers special packages that combine glorious rooms with views of the ocean with the events. For more information, contact:

Highlands Inn
P.O. Box 1700
Carmel, California 93921
(408) 624-3801

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