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Montana’s
Refined Ruggedness Suits the Ladies:
Golfing, Resorts, Dining and Fly Fishingby Martha HollisMontana’s rugged outdoors is eminently suitable for ladies
who love to indulge in proper sporting activities. The striking splendor of the
Yellowstone Country region attracts the well heeled who trade in their
pretentious city shoes for golf spikes, hiking boots, knee-high waders, and
casual shoes. Four highly refined sports—golfing, resorting, fly-fishing, and
gourmet dining—wait to tempt the most discerning traveler. And the price need
not require families to dip into their children’s trust funds especially with
the wealth of reasonably priced public golf courses. Bridger Creek is a most delightful, 18-hole course in
Bozeman with an original grain silo and a rustic cabin smack in the center of a
green. When I saw a Bison herd framing another green, thankfully behind a
fence, I ditched my putter and grabbed my camera for the shot. Sacagawea led explorers Lewis and Clark right through the
area. I imagined that my soft spikes were tracking directly on her moccasin
prints at Bridger. If she had golfed, I imagine she would have played ready golf not wanting to hold anyone up
in their adventuresome progress. It seemed fitting that the assistant teaching pro, Kylee Moullett, was demystifying golf to many, particularly women. Moullett said "women are so athletic and get excited about golf. Beginning women seem to take more lessons than men because. . . women need to have confidence.” Then she suggested that women should pick up their pace using “ready golf—remembering to play more and talk less.”
Before teeing off, golf professional, Jim Schanzenbaker,
explained ready golf's fundamentals.
A good rule of thumb is to allow about 15 minutes per hole with a bit more for
a par 5 and a bit less for a par 3. “Courtesy and safety are the most important
things on the course,” said Schanzenbaker. The pro touted the value of lessons saying “Golf looks so easy and it is one of the least taught sports in the world. It baffles me.”
Imagine, in the middle of our laughter and chattering, he
also suggested ways for beginning golfers to play with more advanced ones so
that everyone has a great time, and that is why most folks golf. “Remember golf
is a game and an outdoor FUN adventure,” he said. He also encouraged us to
“pick up our ball and bring it to the green before getting frustrated.” We appreciated knowing the time limits and protocols.
Promoting proper golf etiquette, we invited others to play through permitting
them to maintain their pace. We had a few extra minutes to bask in the endless
clear blue sky and the glorious mountain peaks. My scoring technique still used the verbal system scrawling
words such as “fantastic, beautiful, good, awesome,” on the card where more
skilled players have been known to use numbers. Totaling my adjective scores, I
realized what a delightful adventure this was. I was golfing. At the Stillwater golf course in Columbus, with no other
players on the course, we could take our time. After two ladies headed for the
comfort of the porch we donned our rainsuits and played in a downpour, much
nicer conditions than the hail that cut us off after nine holes at the course
at Red Lodge Mountain Golf Course not far from the Rock Creek Resort. Red
Lodge, at the base of the Beartooth Mountains, winds through lovely homes, with
a commodious clubhouse and a place I have placed high on my need-to-play list. Curiously, our scores seemed to improve. Our pace increased
proportionally with the raindrops’ frequency. We seemed to lose our inhibitions
and went for bigger shots. Never mind that at one point we could not find the
hole. Someone had moved it. We laughed and had a marvelous adventure. After this wet day we headed for Burnt Out Lodge, Big Timber. This place is remote, but not far from the film location of the Horse Whisperer. Exit the highway on a Forest Service Road, meander some six miles to the ranch, open the gate and enter the Drange family’s working cattle and sheep ranch paradise. They have a stocked fishing pond as well as a trout stream, wildlife, and peace. Here ranchers, Ruth and Blick Drange were waiting for us in their huge timber lodge made of logs salvaged from a devastating forest fire that swept through several years ago. The old and new growth regions poignantly reminded us that this is an idyllic renewal spot for both trees and people.
Each of the five spacious rooms with private bath has the
family’s brand, U Running 3, burned
into the headboard and beds covered with homemade quilts. We gathered for a
rancher’s country breakfast in the central lodge. Ruth knew we were off for
golfing, but from the quantity of delicious food prepared she must have thought
we were each going to walk 48 holes. Big Timber’s course, spectacularly seated at the base of the
Crazy Mountains, sports nine holes with lush greens and colorful flowerbeds. As
we rounded into the clubhouse we started encountering family groups excited
about playing in an annual charity event. By now our golfing jargon was
improving and as was our communication. Not counting the more advanced Big Sky course, we played on
five separate courses averaging fees of $1 per hole. There was no pressure—as
long as you knew how to behave on the course. We did limit the number of
strokes per hole, per player to fewer than ten, but had an incredibly wonderful
time. Of course we heard the ranchers teasing us about cow patty
golf and hitting into the gopher holes, but many of these public courses were
put together with the efforts of local folks who had an eye for beauty
radiantly reflected on every hole. Golfers, particularly those who walk, develop rapacious
appetites. For a quick pick up Moose Track ice cream, full of rich chocolate
tracks made by Wilcoxon in Livingston, is raison d’être for another visit to
Yellowstone country. And for more substantial dining the gourmet restaurant
possibilities are surprisingly expansive given the population density. Many
food devotees frequent these parts, but the ambiance is relaxed and friendly. Chef Chuck Schommer at Buck's T-4 Lodge, is known as the
king of wild game. The chef recently made his debut at the prestigious James
Beard house in New York. Remarkably sophisticated appetizers are the wild game
pate of bison, red deer, antelope, fresh herbs and cognac and the alder-smoked
trout filet with red onion confit, raspberry cream cheese and sliced baguette.
My applewood-smoked buffalo was delectable, and despite a temporary power
failure, the meal progressed without a hitch. The "On the Wild Side"
portion of the menu includes elk, wild boar bacon, bison, pheasant, duckling,
antelope and wild game meatloaf. The Grand Hotel, a national historic hotel in Big Timber
looks like it is right out of a Victorian era movie. Dining in the 1890 room,
Chef Amy Smith along with predecessor chefs has been serving cattlemen,
cowboys, sheepherders and travelers since 1890. Do not skip the gorgonzola and
sundried tomato stuffed mushrooms or calamari tempura with lemon garlic ailoi
or the herb roasted rack of lamb or the roast butter knife tenderloin filet for
two just because Smith's reputation for deserts has spread far and wide.
"There's nothing like finishing off dinner with a good dessert—one that is
not too frou-frou and not too healthy," said Smith whose winning desserts
at the state fairs are becoming as legendary as the hotel. Despite Montana’s production of excellent meats and fresh local trout, a full line of fresh seafoods and fish frequent menus. Many restaurants, such as the Old Piney Dell restaurant at Red Lodge Resort, are offering house-smoked salmon with creative condiments.
This section of Main Street is delightfully mixed, often with an art shop selling $100,000 paintings next to an oil filter shop. But that sums up Montana, it is unique and just about anything goes.
Adjacent to the mineral spring’s pool is a casual restaurant
with killer ribs and margaritas galore. The turn-of-the century, resort, listed
on the National Historic Register, hops every Friday and Saturday night with
live music. Chico Hot Springs, at the base of the Absaroka Beartooth
Mountains 30 minutes north of Yellowstone National Park, are named after a
beloved Mexican storyteller who came to the Paradise Valley springs to mine.
Today the resort’s mineral springs are accessible from two outdoor pools, one
at 104°F and the other at 96°F. Do not miss the
Yellowstone hot rocks spa massage or a mud wrap. On the adjacent property a very private, upscale golf course with home sites was being mapped out. As we four-wheeled over the glacial moraine, rocks and mounds, it took every bit of our beginning golfer imagination to imagine the layout of various holes. It was much easier to imagine the proposed clubhouse with an indoor golf-training center and spa facilities.
In the middle of Welin’s picnic lunch I fanaticized a scene
from A River Runs Through It. We
learned that fly-fishing can be as addictive as golf and that both are sports
of skill and patience with matchless opportunities for enjoying nature.
Combined with Montana’s breathtakingly stunning environment, one is guaranteed
a supreme outdoor adventure. By the way, Montana is rumored to be a great vacation spot
for gentlemen and their sports as well. Images copyright 1999 SearchWrite Yellowstone Country Contacts: Dining, Resorts & Ranch
Big Sky Resort, Big Sky, central reservations, 800 548-4486 http://www.bigskyresort.com Golf Courses & Fishing Guide
Big Sky Golf Course, 18 hole, Big Sky, 995-4706 |
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TM
The Big Sky course, designed by Arnold Palmer, was the most
upscale and difficult of our golf venues. This fearsome female five, pre-novice
to novice golfers, learned pacing at this picture perfect course winding around
the Gallatin River’s Middle fork under the massive Lone Mountain. At 6500 feet,
my ball traveled further than it would at sea level. I made a mental note to
take lessons and work on both coordination and increasing upper body strength.
With Big Sky’s Scott Johnson we ventured out for an
action-packed nine holes. Referring to the local moose, bear, elk, coyote and
deer, he advised that if you are “searching for your ball in the rough and hear
something, get out! Wildlife has the right of way.”
Seated around the gargantuan stone fireplace in the central
lodge, Blick shared the Montana philosophy of respecting folks' space, “Lots of
celebrities live around here and we just leave them alone. Brook Shields lived
here for awhile, but she left since everyone ignored here—guess she needed more
attention. This part of the world is understated, no flash, good solid people.
We give people space.”
Looie's Down Under is in Bozeman’s rustically chic downtown
area. Downstairs, it is in a sleek, modern, restful space with soft lighting
and features the creative cuisine of executive chef, Marvin Garrett—vanilla
roasted chicken with chutney and cranberry stuffed mashed potatoes; shrimp
stacked with eggplant, roasted tomatoes and caramelized onions; cumin and
cinnamon rubbed rack of lamb, and excellent Montana beef, of course. I had
sashimi-quality grilled ahi with an amadare sauce on hiseki seaweed salad and
sushi rolls.
Chico Hot Spring's executive chef, Jack Sorloken, relies on
their backyard, organic garden and hot springs thermal greenhouses for herbs,
flowers and vegetables. The resort employs a full-time gardener and has an open
gate policy for visitors. As soon as one is seated in the old-fashioned wooden
interior dining room complete with chintz curtains, servers ceremoniously
present Montana-sized steamed artichokes with creamy curry ailoli and homemade
bread sticks, both time-honored resort traditions. We also started with baked
brie with lingonberry sauce and house smoked trout. My portion of thick, moist
halibut topped with pine nuts was sumptuous, but those enjoying a lady’s filet
mignon of perfectly cooked Montana beef were equally satisfied. The wine cellar
is well stocked.
One afternoon we took off from golf for an angler lesson
with professional river guide, Channing Welin. With a big smile he greeted us,
"I like the novice angler—they are putty in my hands." Part
philosopher, part historian, part fly fishing literature guide, part
storyteller, an afternoon with Welin is truly memorable. "It is not just
an athletic event, it is a tradition; it is camaraderie. I specialize in
companionable solitude."