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Mt. Bachelor, Eat It Up!
by Heather R. Burke
Three hours south east of Portland is Mt. Bachelor, a
veritable ice cream cone for skiers and riders. Not only can you ski from the
summit of this breathtaking 9,065-foot mountain, you can ski 360 degrees off
this glorious snow covered crown. But wait, it gets better. The Summit Express
quad gets you non-stop runs on your choice of snowfields, steep chutes, or wide
open bowls.
The good news continues. Bachelor has one of the most
efficient overall lift systems in the country. SKI magazine readers rated it No.
2 in the country last season. Nine lifts access a leg burning 3,365-foot
vertical. Well-located high-speed quads map out 3,683 vast acres of skiing and
riding. Add to all that terrain 500-inches annually and you garner a ski season
that can stretch from November to Fourth of July.
Now for the bad news, Bachelor is plagued with its share of
lousy weather. Typical of the Pacific Northwest, storms, cloudbanks and fog can
hover on the summit for days at a spell. This does result in huge snow dumps,
but its tough to ski when you can’t see.
The summit is historically open only a handful of days mid
winter. The hardened locals make jokes about their weather, commenting that the
Pillsbury Doughboy sports a better tan than most Bendonites, the outdoorsy
inhabitants of the local bed base of Bend.
Spring is a welcome change in late March, as the sun begins
to make more common appearances, and the summit is open with greater frequency.
During our early April visit, our first day was one of
those no visibility days. We were quarantined to the lower lifts and the below
tree line skiing, after gawking at the summit shots in the press material and
flying across the country for a taste. I crossed my fingers and ski boots,
hoping for a glimpse of the awesome mountain and the opportunity to explore the
vast snowfields.
Day two we scored big with a perfect “blue bird day”.
We headed straight for the Summit Express, where we skied countless runs in
every direction, making every kind of turn imaginable. Our first “milk run”
turns on eastern exposed Cow’s Face were rimy but the snow softened to a
creamy consistency as we descended each 1,000-feet of vertical.
Before heading off the backside, two ski patrollers
lounging in the precious Oregon sun at the summit assured us that you cannot
unwittingly ski out of bounds as the boundary is well marked and you will
eventually “hit the cat track”. We found that to be the case and enjoyed
every delicious angle of Bachelor’s sweet snow cone.
Off Bachelor’s backside, you can see forever or at least
to Crater Lake and neighboring California. Skiing bowl after bowl, chute after
chute of nature’s own half pipes, we descend to a well-marked boundary and cat
track that wraps around the immense volcanic mountain back to the Northwest
Passage’s awesome 2,400-foot vertical high speed quad.
My favorite adventure included a short hike to the very
summit. I personally despise unwarranted hiking - but trust me here, this brief
climb is worthwhile. From this highest vantage point, you drop into the north
face and ski radical steeps or the long cruising west ridge that takes you
directly to the posh mid-mountain Pine Martin lodge.
I was looking forward to lunch at Scapalo’s, located in
the Pine Martin Lodge. A chance to pause, savor some fine vittles and admire our
tracks.
With seven express quads averaging 2,000 vertical apiece,
it is entirely possible to ski 30,000 to 40,000 vertical in a day. Even when the
summit is closed, there are 5 distinct areas each with their own characteristic
trail system. From East to West, the Sunrise Express is a beginner and
intermediate delight. It is a protected sunny pocket with ego soothing trails
like aptly named Marshmallow. This area even has its own Sunrise Lodge at the
base.
The neighboring Skyliner Express services a handful of
pleasant winding cruisers of the tame blue caliber. To the central base area is
the Pine Marten Express, which launches you from the 5,700-foot base to the
mid-mountain area. From Pine Marten’s peak you can reach all the terrain and
lifts.
I should mention that the Pine Marten Lodge is stunning
architecturally; it blends seamlessly into the mountainside, so much so that it
is not visible from many angles of the mountain. The inside is equally tasteful,
quite literally, featuring three gourmet restaurants, and a cafeteria. And the
view is spectacular, on those treasured picture-perfect Oregon days.
Still two more fantastic lift pods cover the western most
flanks. The Outback and Northwest areas each have their own high-speed quad, and
thrilling undulating runs. The Outback is more of the upper intermediate
variety, while Northwest has predominantly black diamond trails.
My personal favorite was Sparks Lake Run, fulfilling all my
“great run” requirements; steep with big swells, and highly scenic turns
winding through the magnificent pine forest. Anticipate your next GS turn, you
generally have the trail all to yourself, as it abuts Bachelor’s right hand
boundary, so you can plane out and have fun.
If you are wondering what the other draw back might be,
here it is. Slopeside lodging is not an option. Bachelor is within National
Forest, which lends a pristine allure to the area and explains our daily
sightings of mule deer grazing along the access road.
The closest lodging is the Inn on Seventh Mountain, where
rooms and suites are available. Ironically, in springtime, as you drive the
14-miles from the snow covered ski area to the Inn, the grass becomes green,
people are enjoying the resort’s tennis, outdoor swimming, and horseshoes.
While you are peeling of your ski togs, your condo neighbor may be wiping down
his golf clubs in the 70-degree afternoon sunshine.
Five minutes further down the road, the town of Bend offers
the myriad of lodging from chain hotels to B&B’s, and even golf course
resorts. The downtown is quaint, with oodles of cafes, galleries, and the
locally popular Deschutes River Brewery. The Oregonians are a friendly,
outdoorsy bunch. Almost three hours from major hub - Portland, Bend is fast
becoming the in place to live, and the natives are trying to figure out ways to
keep a lid on their discovery.
I recommend visiting in spring when skies are sunnier and
the climate is prime for commingling of sports. Ski deep snow in the morning,
golf or mountain bike the afternoon away. In sync with their seasonal diversity,
Bachelor’s traditional ski operation of 8am-4pm shifts to 7:30am-1: 30pm from
mid-April through July. The snow, like my knees, gets pretty mushy after lunch.
So there you have the good, the bad, and the awesome.
Oregon is a dessert buffet and Bachelor is the loaded hot fudge sundae, which
nudged its way into my top ten of worldwide places to ski. Flying in to Redmond,
just 16 minutes north of Bend, is convenient but only serviced by United Express
and Horizon.
Portland, a major hub and a happening city to spend a day
or two, is serviced by most major carriers, and is located 161 miles northwest
of Bend.
If you go, bring your ski legs; this mountain has plenty of
vertical and some of the fastest lifts on the globe to get you there. And
although a snow dance is probably not needed (Bachelor has you covered from
Thanksgiving to Independence Day), a prayer for a clear forecast would be
prudent.
Mt. Bachelor Ski Area can be reached at 1-800-987-9968
http://www.mtbachelor.com
The Inn of the Seventh Mountain has ski & stay packages
starting at $84. http://www.7thmtn.com
While in Oregon, check out big mountain skiing at Mt. Hood
Meadows and Timberline at Mt. Hood. These ski areas are located on Highway 26
one hour east of Portland, or two hours north of Bend, and Mt. Bachelor.
Timberline Snow Conditions and lodging
http://www.timberlinelodge.com
Mt. Hood Meadows Snow Phone call 503-227-SNOW
http://www.skihood.com
Images by Photographer Greg Burke
© 2000 by Heather R. Burke. Reproduction of this work,
in whole or in part, including images, without written consent from the author
and photographer is prohibited.
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