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The Premier Spas of Eastern
Europe
by Mary Ashcraft
Many North Americans still harbor the misconception
that European spas are fat-farms, mostly for older women seeking lost youth
through quick injections of goat glands. This, in part, is an old wives tale. The European spa
approach to get well along with the American idea to get fit combines the best
of both worlds. It's not a new idea.
Hungary
Ah!
the baths of Budapest--the "calidas aquas." In ancient Hungary, the
Romans enjoyed "taking the waters" and later so did the Turkish
sultans--most notably Suleyman the Magnificent. Both cultures built elaborate
buildings with massage and steam rooms over natural geothermal fissures for
which the area has been famous for thousands of years. The banks of the Danube
became a veritable bathing paradise; the healing waters are still there for
those seeking a cure for an ailment or for those simply seeking to feel like a
sultan or a sultana.
 Ideally
located in the heart of Budapest, Hungary's culturally active capital, is
Margaret Island. Situated in the famed Danube River, it is a refuge of shade
trees, ponds, and a rose garden and the site of the Danubias Thermal Hotel, the
first luxury spa hotel to be built in a major city. Mr. Sandor Betegh,
president of Danubius Hotels, explains that his hotels and spa resorts
"strive to provide a mix of exclusive hotel atmosphere and top medical
treatments
to ensure that guests receive the maximum benefit from their stay." He adds, "Our motto is
'mens sana in
corpore sano'---a sound spirit in a healthy body."
 Fifty
feet away from the Danubias Thermal Hotel and joined to it by an underground
passageway is the more than one hundred year old Ramada Grand Hotel, restored and renewed in
the romantic style evocative of the Austro-Hungarian empire . Their therapy
programs are based on the three valuable thermal springs of Margaret Island.
The special properties of these springs have proven helpful in the curing of
joint and muscle disorders, some degenerative nerve conditions, and in the
healing of bone fractures, and disorders of peripheral circulation. All healing
regimens are put into motion after a thorough examination from one of the staff
of qualified doctors.
While
some clients are affecting cures for serious complaints with laser acupuncture,
medical packs and carbonic baths, others may simply enjoy the underwater massage
or, bringing in the American philosophy that good health requires physical
effort, the new fitness room and sauna, underwater gymnastics and aerobic
exercises.
 Couples
will find much to their liking here. While the wife may be enjoying a mud pack
and use of the complete beauty salon, the husband may take a swim in the pool,
or jog on the island paths alongside the legendary Danube. Or both might take a
bike ride (furnished free by the hotel) around the park, or sit in the rose
garden and watch the passing parade. Just minutes away, of course, is majestic
downtown Budapest with its castle, boutique shopping, opera, concerts and boat
rides on the Danube. Also in downtown Budapest is the world-famous Danubius
Gellert Spa Hotel built in 1918. Its
therapeutic pool is an eclectic extravaganza with iBaroque columns, delicate
wrought-iron balconies, and a retractable Art Nouveau ceiling, was once the
hotel's garden. It is particularly noted
for treatments for a wide range of complaints from bronchial ailments to gynecological problems.
Don't
leave Budapest without enjoying the healing powers and pleasures of the mineral
waters in the 400-year-old domed Turkish bath Kiraly Furdo built by
Arszlan Pasha in 1565. Unchanged since the Ottomans exploited the benefits of
its springs, local people come to continue the tradition. (women on Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays- men on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays). A nominal
fee is charged at the door and you receive a spare linen apron to wear to the
pool. The locals are very comfortable in their bathing and skip the modest
apron entirely. A key is also given for a small and spotless changing booth.
Hang on to the key and remember the number over the changing room door. Next,
don the apron or not, and take the winding staircase leading down to the pool.
The stone steps are worn into grooves by the thousands of feet that have come
to "take-the- waters". As you float on the mineral enriched pool,
bits of dancing colors are projected onto the water, from small geometric pieces of glass
embedded in the oriental
dome, you will truly feel transported back in time.
Czech
Republic
For
a complete change of scenery and atmosphere a growing number of health
conscious Americans are discovering the venerable and fairy tale-like spa town
of Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad) in the Czech Republic. Nestled in a lush valley, straddling the Tepla River in the
verdant Czech countryside is the oldest of the Bohemian spa towns. Since 1349
this picturesque village has catered to and pampered the crowned heads of
Europe and literary and musical giants have drunk from its 12 natural springs
and been inspired by its beauty. Legend says that the healing springs came to
the notice of Emperor Charles IV when his hunting dogs fell yelping into the
hot waters. However, history tells us that people came to bathe in these
springs for centuries and later to drink from them.
The
spa village of hotels, villas, and colonnades reflect the ultimate in 19th century opulence. Atop Castle Hill is
situated the most comprehensive treatment complex in Karlovy Vary. It is the
Bristol Palace spa hotel, with
annexes in the Orava, Sokol, and Livia hotels, each with its own treatment
facility.
Under
the watchful eye of internationally known Dr. Ladislav Spisak, M.D., CSc, classical Balneotherapy is used in the cure
of stomach and intestinal disorders, gout, fat metabolism, obesity, and motor
problems. The drinking of mineral water is a very important part of the
program, plus healthful eating regimens prepared to, order by the
doctor/dietitian team. Hydrotherapeutic procedures like mineral baths with
various ingredients, under water massages, Jacuzzi and hydroxer water
treatments are not only a part of the spa program but are wonderfully
stress-reducing and just plain fun. The client may also speak with a specialist
in medical surgery or plastic surgery.
 Dr.
Spisak also emphasizes the importance of movement therapy in the form of indoor
remedial gymnastics and outdoor walks of varying durations and degrees of
difficulty. A favorite walk is past the colonnade along Vridelni (Spring)
Street. Strollers may fill a drinking cup from any one of the many fountains of healing waters, each with a different
chemical formulation. There are roughly fifty miles of marked paths through
the most scenic parts of the village woods.
 Attractions
in and around Karlovy Vary will tempt the traveler to explore the area and come
to understand why Goethe, Bach, and Chopin were so taken with its beauty. Close by is the tiny medieval town
of Loket with the castle of Emperor Charles IV, and the other spa town of
Marienbad. For the traveler looking for a more vigorous form of diversion,
there are golf, tennis and horseback riding through the ancient forests of
Western Bohemia.
Bulgaria
Along
the coast of the Black Sea is Bulgaria's sun-and-fun Riviera with its spa
treatment center hotels dotting the coastline's beautiful sand beaches. Most of
the country's 300 hot mineral springs
have been converted into modern spa resorts. Those on the Black Sea feature
state-of-the-art facilities specializing in rejuvenation, longevity,
relaxation, general fitness, anti-stress treatments, body building, aerobics,
diet, medical treatments, Antitab (smoking cessation) and, last but not least,
beauty salons.
The
Grand Hotel Varna and the Hotel Ambassador both offer a complete Balneological
center with a wide range of curative treatments, plus indoor and outdoor
swimming pools, gym and various sports facilities. If all the treatments and
sports aren't enough to keep you busy, there are tours arranged for visits to
ancient cities, museums and colorful market places. Many people also enjoy the
fairly fast-paced night life in the clubs, taverns and varieties of restaurants.
Romania
Claims
to the Most Revolutionary Spa Program in the World is in Romania. Situated in
Northern Bucharest is an area of lakes and public gardens called the Green Belt
and it is here in the Flora Geriatric Hotel where Dr. Ana Aslan discovered the
serum that is supposed to stop the aging process and in certain cases to
reverse it. The name of this biothopic drug is Gerovital and it is claimed to
be good for (hold your breath) "preserving youthfulness, vitality,
increased energy to unparalleled levels, improvement of memory and physical and
intellectual capacity." In the
words of Dr. Ana Aslan, "Under the direction of my qualified staff, you
will be able to feel young once again".
Is
there anything to all this? European
spas incorporate therapy and the prevention of illness. They operate under
strict medical supervision and are recognized by European national health
plans. In short, they practice a form of alternative medicine, stressing the
natural health giving substances in the earth and mineral waters with sometimes
amazing results.
These
countries are rich in history, natural beauty and centuries of culture--well
worth visiting for those reasons alone, but, the average, over-worked and
over-stressed American with no apparent illness to cure might just try a
European spa for the fantastic sense of relaxation and well being it inspires.
It will make for an interesting and worthwhile break in your tour of Eastern
Europe.
If
you go, you may want to contact the Ramada Grand Hotel Budapest/Danubius
Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, Telephone: (36 1) 311-1000, 112-0200, Fax: (36 1)
269-4589; or the Spa Hotel Bristol Palace in Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic, Telephone: 00420-17-3113512, Fax:
00420-17-26683.
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