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by MADELYN MILLER

Most people think of Reno as a gambling destination. But I recently spent five days in Reno without ever betting a nickel.

I did taste fabulous gourmet and ethnic foods, sampled award-winning wines from all over the West coast, and enjoyed excursions to Lake Tahoe and historic Virginia City plus a tour of Bonanza's Ponderosa Ranch and the National Automotive Museum.

I was there for the West Coast Wine Competition and Taste of Nevada. My palate was delighted by hundreds of medal-winning wines and signature menu items from northern Nevada's finest restaurants.

Maybe I should have gambled. On my way from the DFW airport parking lot, I found a shiny penny. Moments later, I was lucky to be upgraded to first class on Delta. And enroute I had a remarkably wonderful meal.

As a former restaurant reviewer for the Dallas Times Herald, I've had more than my share of mundane meals. But the meal on Delta got my trip off to a delicious start. It began with a moist, smoked chicken breast, sliced and served with a fresh strawberry cantaloupe and gherkin pickle. Then, I was offered a choice of warm focaccia brushed with olive oil and topped with black olives or crusty cheddar cheese rolls. I chose both, and each was a winner.

The succulent seafood mixed grilled -- shrimps and scallops in a tangy lemon dill sauce -- was served with sides of saut�ed spinach, grilled red and yellow pepper, plus basmati rice and tomato orzo.

A carmelly peach cobbler with creamy vanilla ice-cream was a perfect ending. When I told the stewardess how much I had enjoyed the meal, she showed me Delta's new domestic menus. I'd like to go anywhere the smoked ham and fruit tart travels. It's a pizza crust topped with sliced ham, pears, mozzarella cheese and grated cheddar.

Reno offers an amazing array of things to do. I cannot imagine any other destination where you can visit a ghost town, a state-of-the-art water park, museums, and enjoy big time entertainment all in the same day. And I even managed to save money at Factory Outlets of Nevada.

The wild west really comes alive in Virginia City -- America's oldest living ghost town. Site of the famed Comstock Lode, it brandishes saloons, wooden sidewalks, historic mansions, a steam train and mine tours.

I visited the Mark Twain museum and was fascinated by the memorabilia. They had incredible collections of nickelodeons, player pianos, crank telephones and early radios. Browsing through the quaint stores that lined the main street, I found wonderful souvenirs -- including chocolate gaming chips (remember, I came to eat, not gamble).

Back in Reno, the National Automobile Museum chronicles the history of the automobile and its impact on society. The exhibits bring back scenes from each quarter of the 20th century and feature more than 200 vintage and classic vehicles.

A state-of-the art multi-media presentation describes America's love affair with the automobile. It gives a fast-paced history of the auto's impact on society ranging from vignettes on picnics and dating to racing and advertising. The show incorporates ghost cars, a race car, and film clips.

The facility's displays are vivid illustrations of how past generations lived. Begin in the lobby with a 1926 Model T Ford. Patrons can pop the hood, sit inside and imagine (or reminisce about) driving this antique auto while taking photographs of the family.

Other exhibits stimulate the senses. Stiff and laborious to turn, the Model T hand crank exhibit inspires appreciation for the simple act of turning a key to start today's cars. The cacophony of a bulb horn sends images of an early-day traffic jam. Stereoscopes, placed at varying heights, feature street scenes and fashionable clothing from the Turn-of-the-Century. Beyond the exhibits, there's still more for children to do. A video arcade is located at the end of the modern street.

In addition to recalling yesteryear, adults will find plenty of activities to peak their interest. Car buffs can observe maintenance and detailing of automobiles at the museum's Automotive Shop. For fashion-conscious visitors, vogue clothing from the early 1900's is on display. Outside the actual exhibits, the Cruzin' for Gifts shop features automobile memorabilia and Wheel's Roadhouse Cafe offers riverside dining.

Four street scenes incorporate building facades, street sounds, cars and multi-media time lines which highlight the changes the automobile industry brought on society.

On the Turn-of-the-Century Street, the blacksmith's shop highlights the changing reliance form horse-drawn carriages to cars. Authentic in detail, it was set up with the assistance of a retired blacksmith.

On the 1930's Street you can look through a magnifying screen on one of the first television sets and watch Milton Berle and then-budding actor Ronald Reagan.

At the neighboring 1950's Street I watched Lucy and Ricky go camping in an early travel trailer in a clip form the movie "The Long Long Trailer."

But my favorite feature of the museum is on the "Adopt a Car" program. Similar to many 200 programs, members commit to 10 hours of care per year. Adoptive "parents" (members) maintain their cars as the museum provides training, materials and hosts a quarterly "wax and shine" parties.

Another unique museum is the Wilbur May Center at Randro San Rafael Park. Actually four great places to explore -- it includes the Wilbur D. May Museum, an indoor garden and exhibit gallery, the arboretum and Botanical Garden, plus the Great Basin Adventures. For an overview, stroll down the paths that weave through the beautiful gardens of the arboretum.

Then enter the ranch-style structure that houses the collections from Wilbur May's 40 trips around the world. He lived a life that most people only dream about.

Born in 1889, the son of David May, founder of the highly successful May Department Stores, Wilbur became a pilot early in his life and went on to become a world traveler and adventurer.

A talented, successful man, May was also recognized as a collector, businessman, rancher, composer, pilot, big game hunter and philanthropist. Handicapped by a lame leg at birth, May believed that with support and encouragement, the most severe handicaps could be overcome and that children in particular merited such support. He was a long-time supporter of a variety of children's organizations and shared his time and wealth helping educate youngsters.

Because of his commitment to children, there are many hands-on exhibits in his museum. Ever-changing traveling displays are exhibited, like the Dinamation Dinosaur show on display while I was there.

The trophy room is an education in big game hunting in the 1920's, 30's, and 40's. His collection alone must have made taxidermy a major industry in Nevada.

The unusual collection in the gallery is of priceless antiques and collectibles. A m�lange of whatever struck his fancy, it includes everything from African primitive art, priceless silver, pewter and enamels to guns, Eskimo soapstone sculpture and scrim show, Greek icons amulets from Hally.

Reno is known for its big name extravaganzas. One of the most talented entertainers in Reno is Bertha the elephant, with literally tons of talent. She has "warmed the audience" as the opening act for such entertainment guests as Red Skelton, Roy Clark, Kris Kristofferson, Dinah Shore, Ben Vereen, Shirley MacLaine, Diahann Carroll, Debbie Reynolds, Andy Williams, Roan & Martin, Raquel Welch, Jimmy Durante, Danny Thomas, Pearl Bailey, Andy Griffith, Donald O'Connor, Tennessee Ernie Ford and Carol Channing.

And also Liberace, who on one of his many engagements at the Nugget opted to make his stage entrance each show riding on Bertha's back.

Bertha appeared on "Hollywood Palace," a variety network show, and on many others, including one hosted by Dinah Shore. And she was filmed cavorting with whales and other sea mammals at Marineland of the Pacific, near Los Angeles.

In recent years (1984-'85) Bertha captured attention in the national press when she went on a diet and lost some 2,000 in 18 months.

She has been partnered with several elephants through the years but in October 1989 the Nugget proudly adopted Angel who came from the Busch Gardens breeding center in Tampa, Fla.

Since then, Angel has become a very popular attraction at the Nugget as well. In fact, in 1990 when the Nugget threw her a birthday bash, more than 3,000 showed up to wish her well. On the night of the party (Jan, 21, 1990) Angel made her Celebrity Showroom debut as an entertainer, performing two tricks with Bertha.

Since then she has added dozens of tricks to her repertoire and aspires to be like Bertha one day, who just last year began painting. She is now a member of the Nevada Artists Association and is also a card-carrying member of the Washoe County Library System.

The two are the Nugget's good-will ambassadors, traveling with their trainer, Don Bloomer, to schools, parades and football games throughout the region.

Another attraction you will find only in Reno is Uncle Zeke's Butterscotch on the Road, candy kitchen in Lake Tahoe where everything is hand made. They advise everyone to suck, not chew their legendary butterscotch candy. It all started at Christmas in the early 80's when the owners were low on funds and made the old family butterscotch recipe for gifts. Little did they know that they had just started their own candy company. The latest product is "Dog Doo Souvenirs", thick piles of chocolate, corn puffs and raisins. Packaged in egg crates, they look strange, but taste great. If your sense of taste is mostly in your mouth, love chocolate, and a tacky sense of humor doesn't bother you, you'll love these gems. Great gift idea!

(1-800-847-4731).

Other highlights of my trip included dinner at Louis' Basque Corner which features authentic Basque food served in lavish family style. Recommended by the Frugal Gourmet, it is one of Reno's many dining values, including a glass of wine with each meal. And chef Louis Erreguible has been honored as one of America's outstanding chefs. I tried Basque sweetbreads and enjoyed a taste of several other regional dishes.

But the thing that impressed me the most was a special booth at the wine tasting event sponsored by the Nevada State Troopers that offered free Breathalyzers. It was typical of the many little things that left me with a lingering impression that Reno is trying to do everything right.

RENO-TAHOE OFFERS MATURE TRAVELERS EXTRA VALUE

Reno and Lake Tahoe make an exciting vacation destination for visitors of all ages, with lots to do from gaming to sightseeing, and senior visitors will have an even more enjoyable vacation in Reno when they take advantage of special rates offered by many casino-hotels and attractions. Following is a sample of area discounts offered mature citizens.

Reno's newest hotel, the Clarion Hotel Casino, 3800 S. Virginia St., offers seniors a 10 percent discount year-round on accommodations. Guests also receive a Funbook ($30 value) containing coupons for gaming credits, food discounts, complimentary cocktails, and a 10 percent discount in the hotel gift shop. For reservations or information call 800-762-5190.

Mature visitors can take advantage of Harrah's Reno Casino Hotel's three-day, two-night Great Entertainer Package which includes a cocktail show in Sammy's Showroom, a

buffet breakfast, health club privileges, a valuable casino coupon book, and more. Package prices begin at $69 per person. During visits to Harrah's, located in downtown Reno, seniors can enjoy a 15 percent discount in each of the hotel-casino's four restaurants: the Skyway Buffet, Cafe Andreotti, the Steak House, or the Garden Room coffee shop. 800-648-3773.

The Peppermill Hotel Casino, 2707 S. Virginia St, offers seniors package rates from $44-74 for rooms in the hotel's tower. Mature guests also receive 20 percent off in the luscious Island Buffet, and the Peppermill Coffee Shop has a special seniors menu with lower prices and smaller portions. 800-648-6992

At the Airport Plaza Hotel, a Best Western hotel, members of AARP receive 10 percent off the hotel's published rates. The special rate is available year-round. Seniors appreciate the hotel for its complimentary 24-hour shuttle service, lobby-level Plaza Court Restaurant, and low-rise design, according to Melissa Gilbert, the hotel's reservations manager. The hotel is conveniently located across the street from Reno Cannon International Airport. 800-648-3525

The Holiday Hotel Casino provides seniors a 20 percent discount off the room rack rate upon check in and a 10 percent discount on all food in the hotel's Shore Room Restaurant. The hotel-casino sits on the banks of the Truckee River in downtown Reno. 800-648-5431

The Riverboat Hotel & Casino's Slots Ahoy Club offers special deals to seniors holding the casino's Super Seniors card. To receive the cards, visitors check in at the casino's Slots Ahoy Club booth. On Fridays they'll receive a Super Seniors dining coupon which gets one meal free with the purchase of another of equal or greater value. Slots Ahoy Club prize points are doubled on Friday, making it that much easier to win prizes like satin Riverboat jackets to VCR's. 702-323-8877

Hilton Corp. offers an exclusive program for travelers age 60 or over, and the Flamingo Hilton Reno is one stop members can take advantage of. The senior Honors Program provides room rate discounts lower that those offered AARP members, as well as 20 percent dinner discounts. The program, which starts at $50, features several other benefits. For more information call (214) 788-0878. For Flamingo Hilton reservations call (702) 322-1111.

The National Automobile Museum, which features cars from the turn of the century to modern day, offers discounts to visitors 62 years or older, with individual admission $6.50 and group rate admission only $5.50. The museum also offers free wheelchair use, handicap access and parking, and an automated tour system compatible with hearing aids. 702-333-9300

For more information or a free Reno-Tahoe Visitor Guide, call 800-FOR-RENO (800-367-7366) or write P.O. Box 837, Reno, NV 89504-0837.

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