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Single In Paradise
Bellagio, Lake Como, Italy
by Valerie Summers
The
romantic episodes have been both in real life and in cinematic life. The
hotel was used as the set for numerous
films and has been visited by many Hollywood celebs in addition to royalty,
aristocracy and heads of state throughout the years. Renowned pianist/composer Franz Liszt was so captivated by the
beauty of Bellagio that, on a romantic sojourn with then married French author
Marie de Llavigny, the lovers spent the entire summer in this secluded oasis. Exploring
the hotel and its extraordinary gardens, I came upon a lakefront terrace with
blissful pairs sipping cocktails, enjoying a romantic moment as the sun set behind the mountains.
It was time to dine and as I ascended the grand staircase
leading to the dining room, I heard the lilting music of love songs playing.
Entering the room, I felt transported to an era of grander times. Couples,
couples everywhere, all dressed in their finery. Tuxedoed waiters scurrying about presented plates of artistically
prepared dishes to the guests. The wine
list and menu offered tempting choices of both Italian and international wines
and cuisine and I feasted on a heavenly five course gastronomic delight. On one particularly warm evening, a
candlelight dinner, served on the terrace, insured a night of romance to its
guests.
Further
exploration led me on a one hour guided walking tour of the Rockefeller
Foundation, situated directly behind the Villa Serbelloni. Along with an international
group of visitors, I climbed the forested
promontory to a spectacular panoramic view of all three arms of Lake Como. The guide presented a brief history of the
Bellagio Study and Conference Center
and its purpose as we trudged along. The 50 acres of parks and gardens dotted with 17th to 19th
century buildings offered an environment of solitude and contemplation for
scholars and creative thinkers.
Grand
Hotel Villa Serbelloni Villa
Carlotta |
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TM
Reputed
as one of the most romantic places on earth, I braved a solo visit to Bellagio
on Lake Como. Indeed, as I was driven
along the curving lakeside road en route to the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, I was overcome by the beauty of my
surroundings. The drive along Lake Como imparted a dreamlike quality with parts
of the landscape and mountainscape of the Italian Alps playing peekaboo in the
haze. Arriving at the town of Bellagio,
I sensed that I might be the only person in the town who wasn’t there on a
honeymoon or other romantic tryst. Everyone was paired, or so it seemed, as I was driven through the narrow
streets of the village.
The
town of Bellagio sits on a promontory jutting out into Lake Como, splitting the lake into a “Y” shape.
At the tip of the peninsula, backed by the
lush forested grounds of the Rockefeller Foundation retreat, a villa
transformed, the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni, provided the ultimate romantic
setting. The villa, originally intended
as a private holiday residence, retains the feeling of a grand mansion rather
than a hotel. After checking into the
hotel at the modest reception desk, I was led down the hallway past an opulent
parlor overlooking the lake to one side and a regal marble stairway on the
opposite side. The high, lavishly
embellished ceilings, chandeliers and ornamentation throughout the hotel added
to its grandeur. My multi-windowed room
on the first floor could have comfortably accommodated six people. When I opened the
shuttered windows overlooking the lake and the mountains, the
room was flooded with sunlight. The
individually decorated room was adorned with Murano glass chandeliers, Persian
carpets, frescoes, and period furnishings. Its oversized bathroom was 21st
century with all the expected amenities. I questioned the reason for two doors leading into my room, one in front
of the other with just enough room for a person to stand between them. I was told that during the days when this
was a private villa, the purpose was
for discretion, lest someone be caught coming out of a room that was not
theirs. Romantic encounters have
obviously been part of the Villa for centuries.
During
the next few days, I visited the hotel’s Health and Beauty Center, tennis
courts, took a dip in the pool, enjoyed several boat rides around and across
the lake, and explored the sights. Zipping along in a speedboat, I passed the Versace Villa, the Wallace
Simpson Villa, and several beautiful, old churches. St. Martino, the 500 year old Church on the Mountain, entailed a
45 minute walk up the mountain for a visit. Directly across the lake from Bellagio, in the town of Tremezzo, an
excursion to the Villa Carlotta and its 14 acres of gardens provided a setting
for a beautiful afternoon of strolling through Italian and English landscaped
gardens. The gardens owe much of their
reputation to the more than 150 types of flowering rhododendrons and azaleas
which, during blooming season, create a spectacular array of colors. The villa thoughtfully provides its guests
with maps of the grounds, identifying the various areas and its plants
including a Japanese garden, cactus garden, and palms in addition to the flower
gardens. I later toured the
villa, viewing objects d’art including paintings, sculptures, tapestries
and ornate original furniture. Other
than the tranquility of the Villa Carlotta, I found the town touristy and
crowded with buses. 
A
short boat ride back and I peacefully wandered the streets of Bellagio,
amazed at how cars, motorbikes and those on foot could possibly fit on the
narrow, winding alleyways which not only provided old town charm, but kept
buses and trucks out of the area. Pedestrians sauntered along the streets past smart boutiques, cafes and
restaurants. Church bells chimed. Benches along the waterfront and sidewalk
cafes situated under shady porticos offered more opportunities for romantic
interludes. A short walk along the
waterfront, I entered the gardens of the neo classical Villa Melzi. Although
not as grand in scope as the Villa Carlotta, its grounds were enchanting,
enhanced by colorful foliage, statuary, terracing and ponds. It was the first example in the region of
English gardens and continues to offer
a tranquil respite to its visitors. 
The
entire atmosphere of Bellagio lent itself to a gentle pace and time for
romance. Even though I did not find the
perfect mate to share my experience, I
did enjoy being pampered at one of the world’s great hotels in one of the most
beautiful settings on earth.