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By Valerie Summers

Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid galloped out of the old west and on to the movie screens in 1969.  The blockbuster starred Robert Redford and Paul Newman.  Redford continued, as a major player (director, producer or star) in more than 30 films including: The Way We Were, Out of Africa, The Sting, Three Days of the Condor, Indecent Proposal,  A River Runs Through It and The Horse Whisperer.  The heartthrob for many women all over the world turned out not to be just another pretty face, but a man of conviction who became involved in causes in which he believed.
 
1969 was a very good year for Redford.  In addition to his hit film, he bought Timphaven, a local ski resort just outside of Salt Lake City, Utah, which boasted a chair lift, a rope tow, and a burger joint. Centuries before, the area drew the Ute Indians who retreated to the canyon to escape the summer heat and hunt the abundant game.  By the beginning of the 20th century, a family of Scottish immigrants, the Stewarts, had settled the canyon and opened Timphaven.  Redford looked upon his newly acquired land as an ideal locale for environment conservation and artistic experimentation.  He named it Sundance and indeed, a river does run through it.

I first encountered Sundance last winter and I could not imagine any ski area being more beautiful.  The weather was perfect.  Snow blanketed the mountains like acres of pure white powder dotted with brightly-attired skiers and snowboarders.  For both Nordic and Alpine skiers, the grandeur of Mount Timpanogos, rising 12,000 feet from the base of Sundance, created an awe-inspiring sight.

Although I have skied for more than 25 years, my comfort level remained intermediate.  To ski Sundance was like coming home, with the variety of downhill ski opportunities that challenged but did not terrify. I left my tracks at Bishop’s Bowl, one of the finest intermediate-expert bowls in the Wasatch Range; the long, packed powder slopes of  Bear Claw trail and the not yet groomed, freshly snow covered Amy’s Ridge.

Positive reinforcement is the philosophy of the Ski school.  Under Jerry Warren’s direction, instructors help skiers gain confidence through attitude adjustment and by suggesting how something might be done better rather than pointing out what they are doing wrong.  After a morning of instruction with Warren, my skiing ability and confidence took an upward surge and by noon, I was almost ready for a black diamond run.
Later that evening, a group of my traveling companions and I gathered for a moonlight snowshoe and Nordic Ski adventure through The Elk Meadows Preserve.  I was outfitted with state of the art snowshoe equipment, not much larger than my own snow boots.  Light and comfortable, unlike the traditional basket-like snowshoes, I maintained a brisk pace through the well-maintained trails.  We traversed pristine aspen groves and alpine meadows, passing by flaming torches that brightened the paths.

Winter sports are not limited to skiing, snowboarding and snow shoeing.  I could hardly leave Sundance without giving fly fishing a try.   My guide from Provo River Outfitters helped me into my waterproof coveralls and rubber boots and demonstrated the art of attaching the flies to the hooks.  I learned that fly-fishing has nothing to do with the motion of flying, but has everything to do with little flies which the fish feed on.  We climbed down the snowy banks and into the river. Although I started out with a complete lack of enthusiasm, I didn’t want to leave once I got into it.  Rather than boredom, which I had anticipated, I felt the mesmerizing, tranquilizing, rhythmic movements of casting and mending the line while the icy waters surged around me to be a Zen-like experience.

On a more festive note, the favorite late night spot at Sundance is The Owl Bar.  Historically frequented by Butch Cassidy and his Hole-in-the-Wall Gang, the bar was transported from England to Thermopolis, Wyoming before finding its place in Sundance.  The restored Victorian mahogany bar serves as the centerpiece of this western gathering place and private club.  It was a choice spot for meeting with friends for a nightcap after a day on the slopes or in the river.
 
When the snow melts and the mountains and meadows turn green, a choice of new activities appear on the Sundance horizon.  Fly fishing in the Provo River became a warmer experience.  Sightseeing tours via hot air balloons or helicopter provided a birds eye view of the stunning Wasach Mountains.  Closer to earth I experienced horseback riding, mountain biking and hiking along the scenic trails.  The choices ranged from the pleasant 1.5-mile Sundance Nature Trail to the arduous 7.4-mile Big Baldy trail.  Just 10 minutes from Sundance, the Deer Creek Reservoir offered windsurfing, sailing, jet skiing and water-skiing.  I tried them all.  Nearby, golfers teed off at one of the several driving ranges and nine and 18-hole courses.  I decided to save golfing until next time.

All the wonderful outdoor activities stirred up my appetite.  When it was time to eat and I was in the mood for a gourmet experience, I chose The Tree Room.  Graced by Native American Art and Western memorabilia from Redford’s private collection, the room’s focal point is a huge wall hanging handmade of confederate uniforms.  An unknown admirer presented it to Redford.  For casual dining, the Foundry Grill featured hearty ranch style recipes.  One evening, for a change of pace, I drove to Park City.  My how it had changed since I last visited there some 25 years ago.  It had turned into Aspen.  One of the most popular restaurants in town, and coincidentally owned by Sundance, is Zoom, billed as a Roadhouse Grill and featuring a selection of hearty dishes like the Belle Isle Ribs which I dug into with relish.
 
Although the food was delicious and I enjoyed seeing the changes in Park City, I wondered why I had left paradise. It would not have been a problem to make my suite in the River Run section of Sundance my permanent home.   My accommodations, featuring a full kitchen, roaring fireplace, great stereo system, beautiful view and cozy bedroom, just steps away from some of the country’s finest cultural and outdoor activities were enough to make me want to forget all about life in the big city.

More than a resort, Sundance is a lifestyle and a community.   The Sundance Institute supports and encourages independent filmmakers and playwrights.  Each January, the prestigious Sundance International Film Festival . Sundance Farms holds organic crafts workshops .  The Art Shack offers classes in basic printmaking, drawing, clay firing, glass working, sculpture, papermaking and Native American work.  Sundance hosts private screening of foreign films, American independent cinema, documentaries and great movie classics.   Live musical performances and poetry readings enrich the cultural experience of Sundance. During summer months, the Sundance Theatre showcased polished and innovative theater productions in the resort’s natural amphitheater beneath the grandeur of Mount Timpanaogos. The air was fresh, the stars sparkled in the heavens, the gurgling sounds of the river in the background and beautiful theatrical productions turned perfect days into perfect nights.   Sundance celebrates the arts, the spirit, recreation and the environment throughout the seasons in glorious surroundings gifted by Mother Nature.

Sundance features a unique collection of rooms and suites with Native American decor ranging from a cozy room for one or two to spacious master suites with full kitchen.  Mountain homes, located minutes above the base of Sundance, range in size from one to four bedrooms with full kitchen, spacious living areas and fireplaces. 

RR3, Box A-1
Sundance, Utah  84604
(801-225-4107 or 800-892-1600

Rates (including breakfast): Summer,  $175-295, Winter, $195-425., Fall $150-275.  Van service is available through Sundance Guest services to and from Salt Lake International and Provo Airports.
Provo River Outfitters 801-376-1240.  ¼ day $175 for one person, $115 per person, group rate.

Photos courtesy of Sundance

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