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WEST COAST PLAYGROUNDby Barbara Ballard
Imagine no more. This is Vancouver, BC on Canada’s West Coast. Whatever I wanted in the way of a holiday, it was waiting for me here. From outdoor adventure to arts and ethnic culture, the choices more than filled the time I had.
Shopping was a must do activity. I reveled in Robson Street’s mix of upmarket boutiques nestled alongside colorful cafes and funky specialty stores. If you’re an ice cream fanatic like me, don’t miss Cow’s where the home-made ice cream is to die for.
It was lunchtime and I took a detour to West Vancouver’s Beach Side Cafe, a favorite spot with the local residents. This unassuming restaurant has been named tops in its area four years running and received both gold and silver awards. Executive Chef Carol Chow has used her culinary talents to combine fresh ingredients from the sea and soil, hinting of Asian and Southwestern seasonings. I gorged on the salmon spring rolls with sweet chili and lime sauce, followed by a fresh blueberry tart.
What better way to end my day than to attend Bard on the Beach, a popular summer event. Held near the beach on English Bay, it’s a professional Shakespeare Festival performed in Elizabethan style tents. The sea, the darkening sky and the mountains formed a stunning backdrop.
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Imagine a
city sprawled in a valley lapped by ocean waves with snowcapped mountains hung
against the sky. Nearby a coastal virgin rainforest beckons. Amidst these
beauties of nature are mirror-fronted skyscrapers, a bustling harbour, world
class restaurants and hotels, and shopping to satisfy the most ardent shopaholic.
My float plane
landed in Vancouver’s busy downtown harbour, the largest in North America. I
was right in the scene of the action. This city is alive with energy and
vitality as Vancouverites renovate and
reclaim the old city core areas. Visiting these spots is an interesting way to
take in the city’s flavor. First on my list was Yaletown, fast becoming a
trendy area for eating and shopping as residential remakes of old warehouses go
forward. The home decorating shops were tempting, but I couldn’t quite fit a
lamp into my suitcase.
Gastown is
another funky neighborhood. During the Klondike gold rush it was the center of
the action. Strolling down the sidewalk littered with small shops of every
variety, I spotted traces of that time
in the Victorian streetlights, cobbled streets and the world’s first steam
powered clock. Every quarter hour it
erupts with noise when the steam and chimes let loose. Quite a sight, and what
a sound.
Granville Island is a different sort of
neighborhood. Reclaimed from an industrial district, the old warehouses now
house restaurants, artist’s studios and the usual mélange of shops. Kids can
have a blast in their own store with a small door to enter by (yes, there’s a
big one for parents as well). But the crowning glory is, in my opinion,
Granville Market, where farmers, fishermen and bakers bring their ware. It was
hard to choose between plump blackberries, juicy raspberries or deep wine-red
cherries. It’s a popular spot for the locals to grab fresh seafood and other
delicacies to cart home. I discovered the Aquabus, a water
taxi that plies back and forth between the downtown and the island, was an easy
and fun way to make the trip.
On the city’s
North Shore, a one mile vertical skyride took me to the top of Grouse Mountain.
Fabulous views. The mountain is riddled with hiking trails, and guided walking
tours are offered. A guide suggested only those experienced in wilderness
survival should trail around on their
own. Apparently quite a few people lose their way and have to be rescued. In winter
the same mountain boasts ski runs. 
Later in the day I strolled down to the waters
of English Bay where I was tempted to
rent a kayak, canoe, or sailboat. Scuba divers and salmon fishers were gearing
up for action. I decided to let others
do the work for me and signed up for a three-hour barbecue dinner cruise on
Howe Sound, part of the waters surrounding Vancouver. The sun was out, the sea
was calm, and the views along the western shore were spectacular. We lingered
until the sun set over the waters, a perfect ending to a perfect day.
Stanley Park, a
1000 acre green oasis in the middle of the city, was on the next morning’s
agenda. Renting a bike to circle the six miles around the ocean front is a
great way to explore. But watch out for
the rollerbladers who share the same pathway. Fortunately, walkers have their
own designated paths.
For
something out of Indiana Jones Capilano Suspension Bridge answered the
bill. It spans 450 feet across the Capilano River canyon. If heights are not
your thing, walking the 230-foot long swaying bridge can be nerve wracking. I
decided to leave it to others and just enjoy the view and the landscaped park
while sipping on a cappucino and reading the fascinating history exhibit about
the area.
Chinatown,
the third largest in North America, an area rich in culture and history was a
destination in itself. The streets thronged with the Chinese community speaking
their own language and snapping up barbecued pork or duck just sliced, dried
exotic fruits and other specialties from the many food markets that lace the
streets. Strange sights and smells assailed me as I wondered what many of these
foods were. There were Chinese herbal
remedies to contemplate, and, to purchase, jade, silk and 100-year-old duck eggs that look like highly polished
marble. I marveled at the Sam Kee
building (corner of Carrall and Pender Streets). Only six feet wide, it’s made
the Guinness Book of World Records.
After
the hectic market scene quiet contemplation was the order of the day. I found
it in the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Garden, named for the first president of the Republic
of China. This classical Chinese garden was shipped from China in more than 950
crates. The hand-fired roof tiles, carved woodwork, lattice windows, limestone
rocks and pebbles create an authentic area of peace and calm in the midst of a
bustling and busy neighborhood. 
In two
days I’d only had time for a sampling of what Vancouver has to offer. It’s a
place I’ll come back to again and again to experience the full diversity of natural
and man-made attractions.
If you have
time to spare after sampling Vancouver’s many attractions head up the “Sea to
Sky Highway” to Whistler, a world class ski resort with both winter and summer
attractions. The highway boasts spectacular ocean and mountain views. On the way to Whistler stop at Shannon Falls. Its
1100-foot height makes it the 2nd highest North American falls.
Further along the highway you may catch sight of climbers daring the granite
monolith called Squamish Chief. 
Replete with
gondola rides, world class resorts and shops for the skier and tourist, the
center of Whistler is pedestrianized. Ski season runs from mid-November to
mid-April, but even in summer gondolas run to the top. There are hiking and
biking trails on the mountain. Vancouver All-Terrain Adventures offers
experienced guides and luxury 4x4’s to get you there. Book a bald eagle
adventure tour with them in December and January. Brackendale, located on the
way to Whistler, has the largest concentration of eagles—up to 3500—in North
America.
Consider a day trip to Victoria, BC’s capital
city on Vancouver Island. Travel and Leisure Magazine just voted it one of the
top ten destinations in the world for travelers. Catch the Harbour Air Seaplane located on Coal Harbour Road, one
block west of Canada Place, in Vancouver’s downtown harbour. A 30-minute flight
wings you to Victoria’s Inner Harbour. It’s great sightseeing on the way with
the city of Vancouver spread out below and the Gulf Islands ahead. You’ll get a
bird’s eye view of Victoria. In the distance snow is reflected from the summit
of Washington State’s Mt. Baker. Harbour Air also offers a panoramic tour of
Vancouver or flights to Whistler or exploring the fjordlands of the coast north
of Vancouver.