Fashion Without Fear
The Clothing Doctor Speaks to Men
 Shopping
and caring for clothing doesn't have to be a process fraught with mystery. A
new book by Steve Boorstein tells you what you need to know-in plain
English.
If you're like most men, shopping for clothes ranks
somewhere near "having a root canal" on your list of favorite activities.
Chances are, you're just too busy during the week, and your weekends are
devoted to attending your kid's soccer games, playing golf, or lounging in
front of the TV. Perhaps you have the nagging feeling that there's
something, well, unmanly about having an interest in fabrics and fashion. Or
maybe, just maybe, you have no fashion sense and are intimidated by the
whole subject.
Now there's good news for shopaphobics! Garment guru Steve Boorstein-also
known as "The Clothing Doctor"-has written a new book called The Ultimate
Guide to Shopping & Caring for Clothing: Everything You Need to Know . . .
From Blue Jeans to Ball Gowns (Boutique Books, LLC, October 2002, ISBN:
09717669-0-8, $19.95). Don't worry, you can skip over the "ball gown"
part-there's plenty of good, solid, plain-English info on how to shop for
quality men's clothing and keep it looking like new. For instance:
A hint about designer three-button jackets. Most designers, from casual to
formal, are making three-button jackets that are intended to be worn as a
three-button and naturally roll to a three-button without the help of the
drycleaner.
When you try on a style like this, you will know
immediately, because the lapel is cut perfectly to suit the roll. This
designer version of the three-button jacket, different from the "classic"
three-button by Brooks Brothers, is very fashionable. These jackets are
available in a wide variety of colors, fabrics, and textures.
o Get your suit slacks half lined. Having suit slacks half lined (lined just
to the thigh area) will prolong their life. If the suit slacks are not
lined, have a half lining added at the time of purchase. Lined slacks are
more comfortable to wear, and the lining minimizes thinning of fabric as a
result of friction. High quality casual slacks made of gabardine and other
fine wools are often already half-lined by the manufacturer. They are sleek,
cool and comfortable.
Avoid "problem ties." Selecting a necktie is a personal decision. You should
buy the fabric that best suits your taste, but stay away from known problems
like these:
*Light colors with dark or vibrant prints can limit stain removal and may
bleed from water and spills.
*Dark lining behind light colors, solid or printed, may bleed through during
stain removal. Try to buy ties with light linings or at least with the same
color as the shell.
*Salt-and-pepper designs (black & white threads) that appear as gray have a
history of bleeding from water, spills and stain removal.
*Check tips to make sure they are even. Hold the tie at different angles to
check for snags and deluster. Lay the tie flat on the counter to check for
ripples. If it is not absolutely flat, it will only get worse with use.
Satin ties deluster and snag most easily.
Indulge in a few custom-made shirts. If you are tall, short, robust, or
thin-or in any way "hard to fit"-custom shirts are just what The Clothing
Doctor ordered. This means you design your own shirt; you select the fabric,
the style of the collar and cuffs, and the sewn or fused construction. The
only remaining detail is making the shirt fit your body.
*Because you may be required to order six at a time, ask for a prototype
first.
*Do not be timid about your wishes. This investment of your time and money
may produce many great shirts in the future. This is the time to speak up.
*Ask if collars are preshrunk before the shirt is constructed. Many
custom-made shirt collars have progressive shrinkage, so you may want to
order the collar a half inch larger to account for that problem.
*Remember that the more unique the buttons, the more mismatched buttons you
will have down the road. Ask the shirtmaker for a bag of extra buttons.
*Many off-the-shelf shirts can be replicated for you by a custom shirtmaker.
If you like the fit of one of your shirts, have it replicated in your choice
of fabric and style.
To starch or not to starch? The real story:
*Starch is usually added in the washing machine. In this process, the whole
shirt is starched, not just the collar, cuffs and placket. (These parts are
designed with a double-thick material or an interlining, which makes them
feel considerably stiffer than the body of the shirt.)
*If you still complain about the collar and cuffs being too stiff while the
rest of the shirt feels "soft," seriously consider changing shirt brands.
Remember, sewn collars and cuffs will be softer than fused ones.
*Starched shirts can be uncomfortable in warmer weather. On the plus side,
starched shirts hold their body and shape longer than shirts without starch.
*Medium to heavy starch can cause cotton fabric to turn brittle and can
shorten the life of the shirt. You may see some premature tearing at stress
areas such as the elbows and across the back. Oxford cloth shirts are
particularly sensitive to prolonged exposure to heavy starch.
When buying a tux, think realistically about the future. If you are a man
whose weight has not varied more than five pounds in many years,
congratulations. But if you do have a history of sliding up-and perhaps
down-the scale, consider the following:
*Each time you alter a jacket or slacks, you create new sewing machine
holes. Though they can be "steamed out," they cannot always be totally
hidden. Buy your tux in a size that you can live with for years, according
to your own history of weight gain or loss.
*Although a tuxedo is a formal item and serves to show a certain
sophistication and sense of style, you can have it altered to be fitted
"casually," but professionally.
*When you buy your tuxedo, be sure to find a style that will stand the test
of time. Avoid trendiness and lean toward "conservative." Steer away from
unusual lapels. You might consider taking your partner with you for
feedback.
"Dressing well is all about confidence, which we all know is intricately
linked with success," asserts Boorstein. "When men know a few basic rules,
they can look sharp and stylish without having to stress about it or spend
inordinate amounts of time wandering in the men's department. That's why I
wrote this book. Who knows? Read up on the rules before your shopping trip,
and you might actually find yourself having fun."
About The Author: Steve Boorstein spent 25 years in the clothing
business, first as a buyer and boutique owner and then as a hands-on owner
of one of the most exclusive drycleaners in the country. Steve is a graduate
of the International Fabricare Institute and has lectured and conducted
clothing care seminars at Chanel Boutique, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus,
and Nordstrom, to name a few. He is known as The Clothing Doctor, reminding
his clients that the care of clothing starts the moment you begin to shop.
From blue jeans to ball gowns … he's changing your shopping habits
forever!
He is currently consulting and working on his next book.
About the Book: The Ultimate Guide to Shopping & Caring for Clothing:
Everything You Need to Know . . . From Blue Jeans to Ball Gowns (Boutique
Books, LLC, October 2002, ISBN: 09717669-0-8, $19.95) is available at
bookstores nationwide and online booksellers.
For a free monthly report, a newsletter, and a wealth of valuable tips for
all seasons, please visit
www.clothingdoctor.com.
Edited by Dave Shultz
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