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Going Whimsical in a Chicago Hotel

The Personal Touch of Hotel Monaco

By Will Snyder

So close to everything, yet tucked away from the hustle of Michigan Ave and State Street. Hotel Monaco offers an unforgettable stay for anyone visiting the Windy City.

We had not been to Chicago for 5 years. Our return would celebrate our 25th wedding, which took place on the Northwestern campus in the near north suburb of Evanston. The Artiste wanted to be downtown, near the art galleries and to experience the heartbeat of a city whose downtown still throbs. We didn’t want a big chain hotel, with impersonal service and well-appointed but ultimately sterile accommodations.

We were drawn to the Hotel Monaco by its medium size (192 rooms give the Monaco a dependable size while offering boutique style services), the fact that it is in a fin de siecle renovated building, and its central location on the Chicago River and midway between the Art Museum and the Water Tower. We never regretted our decision- the Monaco is friendly, discrete, innovative and luxurious at the same time. Something for everyone.

The innovative ideas that the Monaco (along with its 7 sister hotels in other US cities) has come up with to solidify its client base are truly attractive: complimentary wine receptions on a daily basis, with games, graphologists, tarot card readers (“you will sleep well tonight”) and snacks; unusual gifts for guests such as lottery tickets; yoga baskets, front desk cookies and apples;  personalized profiles in lieu of a points system. How does the personal tracking work? The management discretely discovers regular guests’ special preferences, and then goes out of its way to make their little dreams come true. Whether delivering favorite snacks, additions to collections, hobby or pet links, or simply an eccentricity, the idea is to make the guest feel special. And the staff I met are motivated and rewarded for their efforts. 

Being nearly 100 years old, the building offers unique treats, including amazing soundproofing, and window frames deep enough to enjoy as a separate sitting space. In fact, yoga mats fit in the huge panoramic ledge inside each window, where a “Lost in Translation” pose can be taken. Kids love these areas and several reportedly use them as high altitude sleeping space.

GM Nabil Moubayed, who admires what some English hotels have done to promote their image, told me that he is currently at about 80% occupancy for the year and that written compliments significantly outnumber the complaints. And well they might, for this is a superbly run institution, with a valuable staff that looks after its guests from the moment they walk in the door.

And walking through the door usually means strolling past head doorman Barnette Grayor. “Hello Mrs Snyder, everything all right Mr Snyder?” Barnette is a big amiable fellow, equally at ease chatting with the delivery driver or describing the Cubs chances in ’04 to the CEOs and rock stars who stay at the Monaco. He has an amazing ability to remember faces and names, usually able to welcome by name anyone who has made it past his door. What’s his trick? “I remember the eyes, and then associate the name to a peculiarity with the person. The rest of the body changes, people grow a moustache or put on weight, change the way they dress, but the eyes, they never really change.”   

The head concierge is Sylvia Rollins, who like Barnette joined Monaco when it opened 6 years ago. They both came from the mainstream hotel business (Hyatt) and have blossomed with the empowerment and responsibility offered in the smaller hotel. Sylvia is dynamite behind a concierge desk, just waiting to go out of her way to make a client have an extraordinary stay. She is fond of the special moments that she has created for guests, like the man who complained at checkout that his room was missing the hotel signature goldfish. When he returned to his office in Florida there was a goldfish bowl sitting on his desk, and he has been a regular visitor since. The hotel is “pet friendly” and that has led to numerous moments of light-hearted folly, like the story of the Pyrenees husky who exited his master’s guestroom door and entered an occupied elevator, looking for someone to play with. 

Whimsy is a state-of-being at Hotel Monaco. Bright yet subdued, psychedelic in a controlled manner, hip while Art Deco classical- all of this is the Monaco. The hallways and rooms are exquisite stripes of warm terracotta and sharp royal colors, establishing a theme, building a mystery. With mottos like “Better than being naked with Mr Bubble” and “All work and no play…”, the Monaco tries to make a difference and is so much more than a simple hotel because of it.

So what are the downsides? I have to say there were no unpleasant surprises. Parking for those who arrive with their own wheels is $33 a day, and that was made clear upfront, along with the promise that the car could be accessed anytime of day throughout the stay. There may be some loonies walking the streets of the city, but the Artiste and I felt safe during our walks at all times of day and night. The hotel was given a new “skin” in 1998, which detracts from its external allure, but inside the renovation has proven to be both customer friendly and a treat to the eyes and senses. In fact, the image of the Monaco hotels is “Indulge your senses” and this is easy to do with the wonderful mélange of colors, Art Deco effects, games and events offered by the attentive management. 

The Monaco offers a variety of special packages, from the Romantic “Oh-h-h Baby, Baby” to the “Body, Mind and Soul” specials. The one that caught my eye is called “Charge” and consists of free parking and shopping gift certificates to Marshall Fields and Crate & Barrel. Whatever your objectives in the wonderful city of Chicago, there is something for you at Hotel Monaco.

Hotel Monaco
225 North Wabash
Chicago, Illinois 60601
Tel: (312) 960-8500
Toll free: (800) 397-7661
www.monaco-chicago.com

Where to eat:

Phil Stefani’s 437 Rush
(the best steaks and seafood in a relaxed Italian setting)

What to do:

Rembrandt’s Journey at the Art Institute (until May 9, 2004)- a fascinating retrospective of the Dutch masters’ etchings and drawings, especially interesting are the Biblical scenes and interpretations.  The Art Institute of Chicago, 111 South Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60603-6110.  Tel: (312) 443-3890.  www.artic.edu

Buddy Guy’s Legends Blues Bar, 754 South Wabash (tel: (312) 427-0333): the night we attended, the cover charge was $8 and a Cajun barbecued dinner for 2 about $35. This club is owned by a famous bluesman, and part of his band was jamming with an unbelievable white guitarist named Dave Weld. Dinner, a jumping scene that was nearly full, the place filled with rare blues memorabilia- a fantastic night out without breaking the bank. Events every night of the week, until 2am.

Will Snyder is a free lance writer living in southwest France.
Phone: 33 675 025 149
mail: will.snyder@voila.fr

Photographs by Will Snyder

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