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Dining Cliffside and Under the Sea

Acapulco’s Baikal Restaurant

By David Currier

I think I just dined at what might be the most beautiful restaurant in the world. 

Recently, serendipity took me on a long weekend to Acapulco.  My host suggested that we “dine well” one evening at Baikal. I'm always ready for fine dining.

Baikal clings to a cliff about a mile and a half south of the Condessa area. We took a taxi ride to the circular drive entrance; we paid the driver and eagerly bounced up the step and into the understated glass-walled, thatched-roof "temple" that serves as the cliff-side entry. Four small fires in pots on the street-level landing add a yellow glow to the entrance.  If you were a passer-by not looking for Baikal, you might miss it altogether. Your eyes would be fixed on the distant mountains covered with evening lights beginning to twinkle; Acapulco Bay, the harbor and the architecture of seaside hotels, and the golden Pacific sunset.

One look, and the hostess informed us that our "casual dress" was not appropriate, but “would we like to come back tomorrow evening”, with long pants? "No problem. Reservations for two, please. 730 pm."

"Taaaxiii!"

Mañana we repeated the process. The view from the crest of the cliff was as spectacular as before. The hostess and maitre d' laughed with us as they approved of our chinos and polo shirts, and led us down the elegant winding staircase with golden wood banisters past the bar and lounge, two level lower to the dining room whose décor takes your breath away. (We noted that long jeans were permitted; but, pardon me, very gauche even on the wealthy patrons of this establishment.)

Like royalty, guests descend these stairs, past a luxurious bar and cocktail lounge to the next lower level. There the dining room spreads before you, every table a desirable setting. The back wall is mirrored to reflect the view through the towering glass seaside windows which permit Baikal to be comfortably air-conditioned.  Light cream colored chiffon-like draping hangs next to each vertical support dividing the room into distinct smaller areas.

Dinner service was exquisite. The maitre d' welcomed us tableside, and then our waiter Luis and his female assistant brought our menus and took our cocktail orders; lip smacking Mexican margaritas on the rocks. Luis was very friendly, conversant and patient while we reviewed the menu. His off-white 'uniform' said “classy”.

My dining companion ordered Caesar salad. I joked with the waiter that being a Mexican Caesar, even in a nouvelle cuisine kitchen, we would expect that the sauce be made from eggs, garlic, anchovies, etc., and not Paul Newman's best. It was perfect and beautifully assembled - a cylinder vase of toasted bread standing on end, a bouquet of romaine leaves rising about 10 inches off the plate, each leaf drizzled with a dressing that would make Caesar Cardini proud.

My shrimp and hearts of palm appetizer was equally inspired. A row of medium sized autumn red seasoned shrimp sat on the edge of a Dali-like stretched platter. Next to the shrimp, a forest of hearts of palm stood on their ends, with tops creatively trimmed. Several small hearts pretended to be fallen logs in this forest.  A wonderful vinaigrette sauce flavored the shrimp and palm perfectly.

To compliment our main courses, we both ordered a glass of house red wine at US $7 each. My taste buds said "merlot", the perfect choice for our meals. If the house-choice is not to your liking, the chef has developed a cellar stocked with fine international wines ranging in price from about US $60 - $300 per bottle.

Foodies with huge American appetites will not leave Baikal hungry. In spite of the nouvelle cuisine flair for presentation, our entrees of pecan encrusted sea bass and mashed potatoes or medallions of beef in Burgundy sauce with steamed garden vegetables left us sated. We even passed on dessert.

Delicious coffee closed the evening meal. And, unlike throughout much of Mexico, my decaf was fresh brewed, not a bottle of Nescafe instant crystals brought to the table with a pitcher of hot water.
 
As remarkable as the food experience is, I do believe that the atmosphere of Baikal would convert a meal catered by McDonald's into a dining experience to remember.

Like Frau Schneider in Cabaret, I was “overvelmed” at Baikal. Baikal takes the beauty of the mountains clinging to the harbor shore; the soft, comfortable atmosphere of the restaurant, and modern technology, and “immerses dinner guests in the sea.”

Remember the towering glass windows overlooking the harbor? As evening turns to night, the sun sets and thousands of specks of light on the hillside replace the cliffs and condos; the views are constantly changing – outside AND inside.

Three times during our meal, giant movie screens descended from the ceiling and covered the windows. Seemingly out of nowhere, fine National Geographic-like sea-nature films were projected onto the screens.

Accompanied by relaxing classical music pieces, the three film’s subjects - slow moving undersea anemones, snails, and other smaller creatures; a pod of porpoises playing on the surface of the Pacific; and Orca whales slowly surfacing or diving out of the water into thin air - delivered the restaurant's guests even closer to the nature they had come to Acapulco to visit.

If ACA is on your vacation’s air tickets, make sure that dining at Baikal is on your to-do list. (Some internet reviewers indicate Baikal is inexpensive. Our bill for two was USD $157 including tip.)

NOTE: Smoking is permitted throughout. "Smoking or non-smoking?" was not an option.

Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mondays and May-November.
Phone: 744-446-6867

A private dining room with secluded entrance may be reserved.

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