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Indochine at TwentyBy Liz Berger
In 1993, Callahan, then-manager and waiter Huy Chi Le, and former maitre d’ Jean-Marc Houmard acquired Indochine, continuing its tradition of sophisticated fusion of French, Vietnamese, and Cambodian cuisines. Le, serving as the current executive chef, derives inspiration from the dishes of his native Vietnam and well as some of his mother’s own specialties, mixing Indochine classics such as steamed Vietnamese ravioli with an ever-changing selection of new dishes. Humbly numbered on the menu from one to forty-nine, the varied offerings of the moment include a Cambodian carpaccio, lightly seared sliced filet mignon with a soy-lime sesame dressing and caramelized shallots, as well as a crispy shrimp stuffed with asparagus and shiitake mushrooms and highlighted with pimento plum sauce. Especially delicious is the tilapia en papillotte baked with ginger, chili, and cellophane noodles. Special desserts one night recently included pear wonton with coconut cream, mango, raspberry, and vanilla ice cream. Although served family style with the expectation of sharing, each dish is very artfully arranged and presented. Each rewards the diner with a subtle aromatic bloom and an ensuing complex cascade of flavors The atmosphere is lush, chic, and downtown—derived from the décor’s witty recreation of French-Colonialism: plantation shutters, bamboo wainscoting, banana leaf wall-paper, and green leather booths under moody lighting. The waitstaff is helpful and amusing and—as were indeed most of the patrons—wearing rigorously black outfits (rather than uniforms) with dramatic and entertaining accessories. But they take their job seriously as evidenced by the concern displayed by our waitperson for my dining companions shellfish allergy. She was warned not to eat any of the fish sauce, and advised not to order anything with certain marinades. The bar and front lounge offers signature cocktails such as the Indochine Martini, made from ginger-infused vodka, Triple Sec, lime juice, and pineapple. Also available is the Saigon Cooler (chilled gin, lemon and cranberry juice, club soda, mint and cucumber slices) and the Lychee Sakitini (cold sake with lychee and lemon juices), as well as the more standard fare of wines, single malt scotches, cognac, and port. Indochine is available for private sit-down dinners from a dozen to 120 people, with a set menu and prix fixe. The restaurant can also accommodate cocktail parties for up to 200 guests. Indochine |
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TM
As Indochine, the “it” place of mid-1980’s NoHo,
celebrates a twentieth anniversary this year, the achievement drives home
the lesson that no New York restaurant can preserve a generation-spanning
reputation as a true mecca of hip without one key ingredient—really superb
food. Conceived first by restauranteurs Brian and Anne McNally and Michael
Callahan in 1984, the first event at Indochine was a party for the important
twentieth century artist Julian Schnable. What followed is history—a list of
frequent patrons such as Warhol et entourage through the greats and
near-greats in the worlds of fashion, music, and film then and now.