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On the Town at “TOWN”By Liz Berger
We spoke with the executive chef John Johnson, previously of Patroon and elsewhere, a thoughtful young man with a soft-spoken open manner, who articulated his goal to present “stylish respectful clean flavors” through “slow cooking and very labor intensive techniques.” The cuisine, very beautifully presented, reflects his able leadership—embodying sophisticated, international influences mixed in subtle and refined combinations, yet preserving recognizable flavors and textures. Here, wit and creativity enhance the food’s natural freshness and flavor rather than overpowering it.
For the main course, notable is the rabbit loin served ravioli style with cardamon and hubbard squash Bolognese, and the poached Maine lobster with melted cippolini saffron and grapefruit essence. There are in addition a variety of vegetables, grains, salads and garnishes such as black truffled black beans with spicy fromage blanc and the not-to-be-dismissed homemade potato chips cooked in whole butter.
Bottles of wines and spirits of the impressive TOWN offerings are housed in a temperature-controlled glass case in the dining room. Signature cocktails are made with fresh fruit purees and in-house made bitters. The award-winning wine menu offers a major selection of single malt scotches, cognacs, armagnacs and calvados. Wine may be integrated with four or five course tasting menus for “A TASTE OF TOWN.” Altogether, TOWN sets high expectations for itself and rises to the occasion admirably. The experience is grown-up, upbeat, and uptown with a fair quantity of happy bustle as well as a pleasant speckling of famous faces among the patrons. One senses here sensitivity to the fresh evanescence of flavor and of imagination as well. There are no ruts in evidence, and no weary war horses plowing them. As chef Johnson sighed poignantly last night, “The menu changes all the time, and spring goes so fast.” TOWN |
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Celebrating its third spring, chef/owner Geoffrey
Zakarian’s superb restaurant “TOWN” claims spiritual descent from the
immortal dining hotspots of the 1950’s, when New York’s golden age brought
sophisticated postwar European cuisine to American patrons. Thinking big for
this purpose, Zakarian had the architect David Rockwell devise a majestic
subterranean formal dining room on 56th Street—complete with a dramatic
stairway entrance for those who wish to suitably frame their arrival. The
room’s moody décor is warmly lit with suspended crystal beads and huge
square wall panels of ultra-thin mahogany, which glow luminously from light
sources within. The visual theme of squares is repeated on the dinner
service, the table candles, and (perhaps serendipitously one evening) on the
wine director’s necktie. 
The very animated main room seats 100, and looks upward
into a dramatic two-storey space as well as towards the upstairs bar and
balcony—room for 40 more—where black marble and jazz or Latin music
accompany one’s choice of the full menu, wine list, and cocktails.
Responding to seasonal ingredients, the fare is strong
on seafood and on the organic produce, veal, pigs, guinea hens, and rabbits
that are raised exclusively for TOWN. Outstanding among the dozen artful
appetizers is the smoked salmon torte with smoked organic potatoes, fresh
wasabi cream, and lemon endive as well as the risotto of escargots with
sweet roasted garlic and black truffle essence. The Hudson Valley foie gras
terrine with mustard greens and sweet pepper jelly features foie gras as it
should be—meltingly complex yet light and subtle.
TOWN’s fromager selects a variety of artisinal cheeses
including chevrot, presented as a slice of cheesecake, topped with wild
blueberries and cured lemon. Executive pastry chef Luci Levere whips up all
of the ice creams, gelatos, and sherberts on the premises, and presents an
extensive selection of desserts: fresh fruits, puddings, tarts, parfaits,
and a separate section of dessert choices entirely devoted to chocolate.