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Gibraltar- the Kingdom Under the Famous Rock
By Vladia Jurcova
The
double-decker bus suddenly stopped again. I was not sure what the problem
was this time, since we already wasted hours standing in line on the border
at the customs’ house. With my mouth wide-opened, I speechlessly watched the
traffic light turn red and a huge plane land in front of me on the shortest
runway that ended right into the sea. “And I thought that landing on an
aircraft carrier was hard,” I whispered to my friend. The only runway
crosses the main road leading to the center of the city below the famous
Rock which makes arriving at Gibraltar by plane a spectacular and thrilling
experience.
Gibraltar,
still a British self-governing colony, is fenced off from the rest of
southern Spain. It is accessible by road, plane and ship. Although the entry
is free, a passport and visa may be required to enter depending on
nationality. This tiny modern colony reminded me of Gulliver’s world for
little people – and although people were the proper size, everything else
was kind of shrunken in order to be accommodated in this miniature busy
state.
Before I arrived at Gib, as the locals call it,
numerous friends told me that this is the only British city on the European
continent with more than 300 sunny days. The interesting fact about the Gib
Rock is that no matter how hot and dry the city can be; there is always
water and fog on the top and inside of it. In the past, this moisture was a
source of drinking water in Gibraltar and might have been the reason why the
tailless Barbary apes populated this highest point of Gibraltar.
Nobody really knows how these apes arrived at Gib,
but this surely is the only place in Europe where apes live freely. Many
believe that the apes are the most famous attraction and residents of the
Rock. They are accustomed to visitors, and one has to be careful around them
as they like to grab a wallet or camera and run. Monkeys are not the only
animals that attract wild-life visitors to the sunny coast. Dolphins and
migrating whales also call this unique place their home. Many tour agencies
offer boat trips around the Rock during which these animals can be observed
in their natural habitat.
I stayed at the largest hotel in Gibraltar, the popular
Catela. This elegant hotel, that recently received a major face lift, has
been standing on the Mediterranean coast for many years. Guide book informed
me that “the hotel’s Italian restaurant has a great reputation not only
among the tourists, but also the locals who come to enjoy an authentic feast
on the quiet eastside beach.” Although I checked into my room, I actually
spent a romantic night on the lovely beach in my sleeping bag. Apparently
this was the thing to do around here because at night, the illuminated Rock,
offered spectacular game of lights.
Although Gibraltar is well known for its lovely sandy
beaches, pleasantly sheltered from the wind, this area is also popular among
windsurfers and kite surfers. The southern tip of the city proudly displays
several dozens of steel windmills that create the energy for the city.
Catalan beach was my favorite beach, not only because my hotel was located
there, but also because of the charming fishing village located right on the
pretty sandy beach. The limestone origin of the Rock caused popularization
of scuba diving among the visitors who come to explore the underwater world
around the Rock. Well, maybe they hope to write history by discovering the
secrete passage to Africa.
During my search for exciting local secrets, I
discovered one of the Gib’s marinas. It immediately became one of my
favorite places in Gibraltar. First of all, I am a sailor and meeting a
fellow sailor, fresh from a transatlantic crossing is always a reason for
celebration. And secondly, because Bianca’s, my desired restaurant was
located in the Marina Bay. When the friendly Bianca’s chef learned about my
hardship in order to visit this place, he immediately charmed me with
delicious light cuisine. This fine dinning establishment with an outside
patio was a blessing for my “fish and chips spoiled” stomach. I was advised
to visit Bianca’s by my friend who spent her wedding day at this restaurant,
more precisely, at the bar. Several years ago, my two best friends ran off
to get married in Gibraltar. I don’t know what attracted them to this
unusual wedding destination, but Bianca’s certainly contributed to their
enjoyment.
Gibraltar is pretty much a one day or maximum a couple
of days kind of destination. “Most of the visitors limit their time in
Gibraltar to shopping and taking a cable car (cost $8) to the top of the
Rock,” my front desk lady, Jill, told me. But since I try to never act like
“most of the visitors,” I decided to utilize my free leg power, and conquer
the Rock by taking the stair climb. After a one hour good workout, I finally
reached the top of the Rock. My decision to walk brought a satisfaction
familiar to Moorish conquerors as the breathtaking views of Gibraltar and
African coast spread out in front of me like a colorful fan of a fine
Spanish dame. I knew that sooner or later, I would encounter the monkeys, so
I kept all my shinny belongings close to my body. People are not allowed to
feed the monkeys, but the monkeys obviously never heard of this prohibition
as they shamelessly steel candy from the tourists.
My fascination with history led my steps to the Moorish
castle and its ancient tower (admission $7). I honestly admired the
craftsmanship of local women and men who created the art (pottery and
tapestry) displayed at the tower. The castle was built in 711 when the Moors
controlled Gibraltar Bay. For boats entering the bay, it was impossible to
escape the watchful eyes of Moorish guards. Later on, English kings
conquered the Rock and placed cannons at the fortress. These cannons are
still displayed in the Great Siege Tunnels which are a sophisticated maze of
walkways, today used for different exhibitions and staged scenes from the
colony’s stormy history.
The Rock is really a big chunk of limestone that
shelters several amazing natural caves. Many of them were used in the past
as the shelters during the war. The most famous cave is St. Michael’s Cave
which is used, due to its great acoustic features, for grand underground
concerts. In the past, locals believed that this cave was bottomless and
monkeys came from the African continent through the underground and undersea
passage.
If one is not on the beach or the Rock, it’s hard to
tell this place is located at the south coast of Iberian Peninsula, and only
fifteen minutes boat ride from the African continent. The cosmopolitan Main
street, not different from any other English High Street, buzzed with
hundreds of visitors that stopped for a layover during their Mediterranean
cruise experience. Since Gib is the duty free shopping paradise, most of the
people visit during the day and leave with the sunset. Among visitors,
Gibraltar is well-known for its wild-life, but rarely for its wild night
life; and while the shopping spree could save you a little bit of money,
dinning can definitely break the bank. Travelers on a budget should check
out the typical English fish and chips establishments or local pubs for
light refreshment and typical English atmosphere. During exploration of the
Southern sunny coast of Iberian Peninsula, Gibraltar definitely represents
an interesting and diverse destination.
Images courtesy of Mark Bruzon and Vladia Jurcova
www.geocities.com/player2000gi/gibraltar2.htm
www.contessavladia.com
To learn more about Gibraltar visit: www.gibraltar.gi
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