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Gibraltar- the Kingdom Under the Famous Rock

By Vladia Jurcova 

The double-decker bus suddenly stopped again. I was not sure what the problem was this time, since we already wasted hours standing in line on the border at the customs’ house. With my mouth wide-opened, I speechlessly watched the traffic light turn red and a huge plane land in front of me on the shortest runway that ended right into the sea. “And I thought that landing on an aircraft carrier was hard,” I whispered to my friend. The only runway crosses the main road leading to the center of the city below the famous Rock which makes arriving at Gibraltar by plane a spectacular and thrilling experience.

Gibraltar, still a British self-governing colony, is fenced off from the rest of southern Spain. It is accessible by road, plane and ship. Although the entry is free, a passport and visa may be required to enter depending on nationality. This tiny modern colony reminded me of Gulliver’s world for little people – and although people were the proper size, everything else was kind of shrunken in order to be accommodated in this miniature busy state.

Before I arrived at Gib, as the locals call it, numerous friends told me that this is the only British city on the European continent with more than 300 sunny days. The interesting fact about the Gib Rock is that no matter how hot and dry the city can be; there is always water and fog on the top and inside of it. In the past, this moisture was a source of drinking water in Gibraltar and might have been the reason why the tailless Barbary apes populated this highest point of Gibraltar.

Nobody really knows how these apes arrived at Gib, but this surely is the only place in Europe where apes live freely. Many believe that the apes are the most famous attraction and residents of the Rock. They are accustomed to visitors, and one has to be careful around them as they like to grab a wallet or camera and run. Monkeys are not the only animals that attract wild-life visitors to the sunny coast. Dolphins and migrating whales also call this unique place their home. Many tour agencies offer boat trips around the Rock during which these animals can be observed in their natural habitat.

I stayed at the largest hotel in Gibraltar, the popular Catela. This elegant hotel, that recently received a major face lift, has been standing on the Mediterranean coast for many years. Guide book informed me that “the hotel’s Italian restaurant has a great reputation not only among the tourists, but also the locals who come to enjoy an authentic feast on the quiet eastside beach.” Although I checked into my room, I actually spent a romantic night on the lovely beach in my sleeping bag. Apparently this was the thing to do around here because at night, the illuminated Rock, offered spectacular game of lights.

Although Gibraltar is well known for its lovely sandy beaches, pleasantly sheltered from the wind, this area is also popular among windsurfers and kite surfers. The southern tip of the city proudly displays several dozens of steel windmills that create the energy for the city. Catalan beach was my favorite beach, not only because my hotel was located there, but also because of the charming fishing village located right on the pretty sandy beach. The limestone origin of the Rock caused popularization of scuba diving among the visitors who come to explore the underwater world around the Rock. Well, maybe they hope to write history by discovering the secrete passage to Africa.

During my search for exciting local secrets, I discovered one of the Gib’s marinas. It immediately became one of my favorite places in Gibraltar. First of all, I am a sailor and meeting a fellow sailor, fresh from a transatlantic crossing is always a reason for celebration. And secondly, because Bianca’s, my desired restaurant was located in the Marina Bay. When the friendly Bianca’s chef learned about my hardship in order to visit this place, he immediately charmed me with delicious light cuisine. This fine dinning establishment with an outside patio was a blessing for my “fish and chips spoiled” stomach. I was advised to visit Bianca’s by my friend who spent her wedding day at this restaurant, more precisely, at the bar. Several years ago, my two best friends ran off to get married in Gibraltar. I don’t know what attracted them to this unusual wedding destination, but Bianca’s certainly contributed to their enjoyment.

Gibraltar is pretty much a one day or maximum a couple of days kind of destination. “Most of the visitors limit their time in Gibraltar to shopping and taking a cable car (cost $8) to the top of the Rock,” my front desk lady, Jill, told me. But since I try to never act like “most of the visitors,” I decided to utilize my free leg power, and conquer the Rock by taking the stair climb. After a one hour good workout, I finally reached the top of the Rock. My decision to walk brought a satisfaction familiar to Moorish conquerors as the breathtaking views of Gibraltar and African coast spread out in front of me like a colorful fan of a fine Spanish dame. I knew that sooner or later, I would encounter the monkeys, so I kept all my shinny belongings close to my body. People are not allowed to feed the monkeys, but the monkeys obviously never heard of this prohibition as they shamelessly steel candy from the tourists.

My fascination with history led my steps to the Moorish castle and its ancient tower (admission $7). I honestly admired the craftsmanship of local women and men who created the art (pottery and tapestry) displayed at the tower. The castle was built in 711 when the Moors controlled Gibraltar Bay. For boats entering the bay, it was impossible to escape the watchful eyes of Moorish guards. Later on, English kings conquered the Rock and placed cannons at the fortress. These cannons are still displayed in the Great Siege Tunnels which are a sophisticated maze of walkways, today used for different exhibitions and staged scenes from the colony’s stormy history.

The Rock is really a big chunk of limestone that shelters several amazing natural caves. Many of them were used in the past as the shelters during the war. The most famous cave is St. Michael’s Cave which is used, due to its great acoustic features, for grand underground concerts. In the past, locals believed that this cave was bottomless and monkeys came from the African continent through the underground and undersea passage.

If one is not on the beach or the Rock, it’s hard to tell this place is located at the south coast of Iberian Peninsula, and only fifteen minutes boat ride from the African continent. The cosmopolitan Main street, not different from any other English High Street, buzzed with hundreds of visitors that stopped for a layover during their Mediterranean cruise experience. Since Gib is the duty free shopping paradise, most of the people visit during the day and leave with the sunset. Among visitors, Gibraltar is well-known for its wild-life, but rarely for its wild night life; and while the shopping spree could save you a little bit of money, dinning can definitely break the bank. Travelers on a budget should check out the typical English fish and chips establishments or local pubs for light refreshment and typical English atmosphere. During exploration of the Southern sunny coast of Iberian Peninsula, Gibraltar definitely represents an interesting and diverse destination.             

Images courtesy of Mark Bruzon and Vladia Jurcova
www.geocities.com/player2000gi/gibraltar2.htm
www.contessavladia.com

To learn more about Gibraltar visit: www.gibraltar.gi

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