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Tahiti’s Newest 5-Star

By Karoline Cullen

It’s raining and hard drops are dimpling the pool’s surface. The foam cresting the waves is gray, the sky is dull and the ocean looks angry. But do I care? Not at the moment, really. Cindy, my masseuse at le Spa, is making sure all my cares dissolve. There are flowers around the massage table, soft Polynesian music is playing in the background, and the papaya oil she is using perfumes the air. That late flight from Los Angeles, that morning traffic jam, that rain outside – all fading fast from my consciousness.

I’m being pampered at the Radisson Plaza, Tahiti’s newest luxury resort and the first to open on the island since 1997. It is on the northwest coast of Tahiti, just ten minutes from the bustling capital of Papeete. Fronted by the black sand of Lafayette Beach and backed by a lushly vegetated mountain, the hotel’s five buildings of guest rooms overlook a large infinity pool, hot tub, restaurant, and Matavai Bay.

Some of the first encounters between Polynesians and Europeans took place at Matavai Bay. It was where Samuel Wallis claimed the island for England. Captain James Cook visited the Bay several times in the late 1700’s on the Endeavor. The Bounty, under Captain Bligh, anchored in the Bay in 1789 before sailing towards Jamaica and that famous mutiny. The Bounty’s story became legend in the books written by James Norman Hall and Charles Nordhoff. Not far from the Radisson is the James Norman Hall Museum, located in the home where the author lived for almost thirty years.

The Radisson Plaza salutes the history of the island by featuring black and white photos of colonial Tahiti throughout the resort. Our guestroom is surprisingly sleek and modern in décor, with wood floors and contemporary furnishings accented by local crafts. The bedroom styling would easily work in Soho and our bath has a large marble vanity with raised sinks, a deep soaker tub, and a huge shower. After my spa treatment, all I am fit for is lounging on the furnished lanai and gazing at the ocean, until it is time for dinner.

The restaurant, Hiti Mahana, is in a large, thatched roof structure offering both indoor and outdoor seating with views of the Pacific and nearby Moorea. The buffet is extensive but we select seafood from the a la carte menu instead. More than anything else, the breads and pastries reaffirm that we are in a French territory. After dinner, we window shop at the small boutiques, browse the Cultural Handicraft Centre, and visit the Layfayette Bar for a view of the night sky from its terrace.

Next day, in typical French Polynesian style, the rains have dissipated and the sunshine makes everything sparkle. I could be ambitious and hit the fitness center or take the shuttle for some shopping in Papeete or arrange a four-wheel drive tour to Tahiti’s waterfalls. Maybe tomorrow. With the pleasant effects of Cindy’s massage still lingering, lazing by the pool is just the thing for now.

FYI:
The Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti, with 165 ocean view rooms and suites, opened in 2004. It has the only full-service hotel spa on the island and offers extensive meeting facilities. For information or reservations, visit www.radisson.com/aruefrp or call 1 800 333 3333 in Canada or the U.S.

Photos by Karoline Cullen
1 The grounds of the Radisson Plaza Resort Tahiti
2 Our bedroom.
3 Our bath vanity
4 Hotel and pool
5 Pool

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