|
TM
Boston’s Brewpubs Brew Great Beer for Beer-Savvy Drinkers
By Jeanine Buckley
Get a Taste of Ole England at John Harvard’s
Will
sat at the worn oak bar, quill as usual glued to his hand, stained fingers from overuse, furiously
writing. He only paused long enough to grab his pewter stein, gulping down the
refreshing stout, then continued uninterrupted. John walked up behind him,
seeing a master at work. He tapped him lightly on the shoulder, not at all taken
aback by a startled jump from Will.
“I do say, my dear John, you gave me quite a start!”
John merely smiled and pulled up a barstool.
“Which concoction have you brewed this time?” John asked,
beckoning the bartender for one of his own.
“I call this one the Knight’s Ale –robust, but with a hint
of romance in the form of hops.”
They immediately began discussing beermaking, their
favorite subject.
Will had been brewing for years, but John was an eager
novice, furiously taking notes whenever they were together.
“Will, I have some big news—I’m leaving for the New World
next week.”
A surprised silence followed by a vigorous handshake, was
Will’s reply. “Well, mate, we’ll have to keep in touch—keep on brewing. I hear
beer is in short supply there, but it’s so much easier to make than wine, it’s
worth learning about!
“I’m definitely taking the recipes with me!” John replied
eagerly.
And with that, the recipes for John Harvard’s Brewhouse
were brought to Boston. According to folklore, these recipes from William
Shakespeare and John Harvard were rediscovered again in Boston, providing the
inspiration for John Harvard’s Brewhouse. Appropriately situated in the heart of
Harvard Square, John Harvard’s atmosphere whispers the tales of the ages, the
high pub tables and low-hanging lights reminding me of the ageless London pubs.
Brewing of the beers on tap takes place behind glass dividers in copper casks.
Darkly stained oak tables and bar add to the “renaissance” atmosphere, along
with the backlit stained glass windows. Shakespeare, the king of satire, must
have had his say, for at closer inspection, the personages in the windows are
not religious figures, but Boston’s local heroes.
Opened since 1992, John Harvard’s capitalized on a trend of
brewpubs happening in Boston and the rest of the country. With a seating
capacity of 350, they can handle everything from parties of 10-50 to buses of
tourists making a stop during leaf peeping season. Local celebs have also been
seen discreetly sipping some of John Harvard’s specialty ales like Matt Damon,
Ben Affleck and Jerry Springer, just to name a few.
Here are just a few of my favorite John Harvard brews:
-
Irish Red: This nitrogenated beer is slightly
sweet, with some malt character. Color could be called ‘stained oak’, as it
matches the color of the bar.
-
Bitter Cask: This conditioned British style uses
less carbonation and a hand pump, tasting a little flat to the uneducated
palate and served at room temperature.
-
IPA: India pale ales were such named because
they kept the beer fresh for the long trip to India from Britain. Their
version is hoppy and robust, with a dry finish.
John Harvard’s also offers “growlers” or six-packs of your
favorite choices to take home, excluding the nitrogenated versions.
Since 1992, John Harvard’s has expanded to include 10 pubs
along the eastern seaboard. Recently purchased by the Boston Culinary Group,
John Harvard’s new management is helping to further its success even more. Who
know? You may be able to order an Irish Red at the Fleet center one of these
days!
Cambridge Brewery’s Food as Good as the Beer
Another brewpub success is the
Cambridge Brewery, actually one of the first brewpubs in the US. Phil Bannatyne,
the owner, watched his friends open the Triple Rock in Berkeley, following suit
in Boston in 1984. In heart of tekkie-ville, close to MIT, the Cambridge Brewery
is located in a former woven hose factory. Bannatyne chose the location because
of the young crowd and artsy area, an east coast Berkeley.
Compared to John Harvard’s, the Cambridge Brewery is an
opposite extreme in more ways than one. First of all, it’s much better lit, with
skylights and plenty of sunlight streaming in. An industrial loft style with
exposed brick and ventilation pipes contrast sharply with John Harvard’s
traditional English pub atmosphere. Again there’s a stained glass theme, but
instead of historical figures, half-drunk pints of beer are the well-chosen
subject.
The crowd is much more of a beer connoisseur, having grown
up with craft brews, and knowing about the various international styles of beer.
For Cambridge Brewing, beermaking is akin to winemaking, and their brewmaster,
Will Meyers, is quite the expert. He’s been working at the Cambridge Brewery for
11 years, and still constantly experiments to find unusual blends and creative
combinations for the beer. They keep several “standards” on tap, but then have
fun with the rest. Here are a few of my favorites
-
Tall Tale Pale Ale: A coppery color, fruity and
full-bodied because of the hops, slightly bitter with more alcohol (5.9%).
-
Cambridge Amber: A rich amber red color, with
more malt, less hops and a lightly roasted finish (4.7%).
-
Bitchin Bitter: Actually “bittersweet”, with dry
dark caramel and a hint of butterscotch.
-
Barley Wine: Aged like wine in oak, a dark
caramel color with some carbonation left. Tastes like dried fruits, vanilla
and toffee with a warming alcohol finish (12%)
According to Meyers, Cambridge Brewery’s strength is their
sophisticated beers meeting eclectic tastes; along with great food—not your
typical pub fare here—people come here as much for the food as for the beer.
Chef Brian Roskow creates very unusual food using some of the flavors found in
the beer. Once a quarter Chef Roskow prepares a prix fixe dinner for $45 with
several courses of gourmet food paired with beer. Periodically, they even hold
vertical barley wine tastings for the true conoisseur.
Boston Beerworks Has a Beer for Everyone
Originally open in 1992 in Fenway
Park, Boston Beerworks has grown to 3 locations in Boston-Fenway,
North Station and Salem. If you’re looking for a sports bar with a huge
selection of craft brews, Boston Beerworks is just for you.
With 15 Beers on tap and one on cask, everything from the
Hub Light to Back Bay IPA to Curley’s Irish Stout, even Guinness drinkers could
be persuaded to make the switch. The size of the Canal Street location is
impressive, with seating capacity for 575 and two levels, the second level with
private function rooms and pool tables. On a Red Sox or Bruins night, the
ambiance is nothing short of thrilling. The most modern of the three brewpubs,
the large beer casks are not behind glass, and Herb Lindtveit, the Head Brewer,
will be happy to give you an informal tour. I counted 9 televisions for Red Sox,
Bruins or Celtic fans to catch every single play by play while sipping a Boston
Garden Golden. Not to mention the fact the Canal Street location is down the
street from the Fleet Center, they definitely cater to a sophisticated sports
crowd. No Budweiser served here, that’s for sure.
Here are a few of my Boston Beerworks favorites:
-
Victory Red: Ruby-colored pre-prohibitionist
style, this beer was brewed on October 24, 2004, the day of the Red Sock’s
Victory over the Yankees.
-
Back Bay IPA: This copper/colored beer won the
GABF Bronze Medal; fruity up front with a strong bitter finish.
-
Funky Monk-y—This free form Belgian ale, named
after its “monk” style, is molasses colored but surprisingly creamy with
hints of chocolate and licorice and 7 secret spices.
Their brews are so tasty, they’re bringing in British and
Irish tourists, along with a few Canadians. Brew tours seem to be gaining in
popularity these days, plus with Boston’s roots in England and its huge Irish
immigrant population, there’s no wonder they’re packed most of the time. I’d
have to say I preferred John Harvard’s old English atmosphere, along with its
Bitter Cask as my preferred brew. The Cambridge Brewery caught my attention with
its unusual take on gourmet food & beer tastings, along with the barley wine.
The Boston Beerworks huge selection of ales, lagers and stouts, not to mention
the witty local names—I’d definitely catch in a Red Sox game or two just for the
spirited crowd. Yes, there’s definitely great craft beer in Boston.
John Harvards Brewhouse
33 Dunster Street
Cambridge, MA 02138
Tel: (617) 868-3585
http://www.johnharvards.com
Cambridge Brewing Company
1 Kendall Sq, Bldg 100
Cambridge, 02139
Tel: (617) 494-1994
http://www.cambridgebrewingcompany.com
Boston Beerworks
112 Canal Street
Boston, MA 02114
Near North Station
Phone: 617.896.BEER
http://www.beerworks.net
Back to
TravelLady Magazine |
|