A visit to Romantik Hotel “Gasthaus Rottner” in Nürnberg
By Donald James Dunn
Pythagoras,
an ancient Greek philosopher and mathematician, expressed his concept of a
“Harmony of the Spheres”, the joining and fitting together of all things, the
integration of order and chaos, 2,500 years ago. Stefan and Claudia Rottner have
applied this concept to their Inn and Hotel two and a half millennia later,
lending to it their own unique flair and style.
Everything about the old “Gasthaus”, or Inn,
reflects a warmth, an old-fashioned coziness, a comfortable “down-home” feeling
associated with what is “known”, established, tried and tested. The friendliness
is palpable. There is no hint of stuffiness or pretense – “Gemütlichkeit”
reigns supreme. Walk across the courtyard and street to the Hotel-portion of “Gasthaus
Rottner”, and you are suddenly transported to the ultra-modern, where
electronic key-cards open doors, where the architecture is definitively 20th
century and where the exquisite bathroom facilities are built around a group of
circles set within rooms of angular proportions. Each location resonates within
its own distinctive set of harmonies and yet the two locations harmonize with
each other: the very modern is subdued through tranquil artwork in the rooms,
through the quaint font used to transcribe verses woven into the fabric of the
carpets in the hallways, by the baskets of flowers from Mother Rottner’s garden
scattered in the foyer, by “real” hangers in the closets (not the usual
“non-hooked, slot-fitting” fare found in modern hotels). A delicate balance
suffuses everything, from the upscale business elegance of the hotel to the warm
charm of old Nürnberg in the inn, a true harmonic symbiosis.
In
existence since 1812, “Gasthaus Rottner” is a well-established tradition
in Nürnberg; it is also well off the beaten track, located in the western
outskirts of the city in the quiet suburb of Großreuth bei Schweinau. This makes
it ideal for the discerning traveller who wishes to avoid the hustle and bustle
of the city proper. However, it is the food, mostly traditional Bavarian
specialties cooked in Stefan’s own unique way that makes the trip to this inn
truly worthwhile. There is very little that could be deemed “exotic” on this
menu – just superb “old style” venues cooked with panache and flair. And yet
precisely here, I stumbled across an item I had never eaten before: “Geißlein”
– baby goat, soft as butter and exquisite. (OK, so there are some “exotic” or
unusual dishes on the menu…)
Stefan Rottner, easy-going, friendly and accommodating,
invited me to sit at the “Tisch am Herd”, the table at the stove, which
is basically a round table in his office right adjacent to the kitchen. From
that vantage point, I had complete access to everything in the kitchens and
could view all activities while sampling what was being prepared. The kitchens
here are very traditional and the cooking style definitely “old school”, but
with Stefan orchestrating the team, a symphony of gastronomic delights flows
forth from the pots and pans.
A
sampler: Franconian roast sausages served with white asparagus; beef tenderloin
tips sautéed with “pfifferlinge” (chanterelle mushrooms); sorrel
soup with fresh chives and cream; braised sturgeon filets in a sauce made with
Noilly Prat and saffron; ravioli made with “Bärlauch” (ramson or
bear’s garlic) and filled with goat’s cheese and walnuts; deep-fried “Holunder”
(elderberry) blossoms, strawberry confit and a rhubarb-cream gelée
with moccha ice cream; a chocolate and chili “Auflauf” (casserole)
with mascarpone ice cream. And the wines! Best of all were the “gray”
Burgundies from Baden, but the “house” wine, a 2003 Fürst Löwenstein
Riesling was nicely full-bodied and dry as well. The “house” cocktail is quite
unique: sloe-berry wine and champagne (a modified Kir Royale).
Very
much a family-run operation – Stefan cooks and administrates, spouse Claudia
greets and serves guests, compiles menus and lends her artistic skills to the
“house”, Mother Rottner tends the extensive herb gardens – it is hoped that the
children will take over the business. Their son is beginning his apprenticeship
as a cook and their daughter is involved in honing her equestrian skills. Stefan
hopes that his son will take over the “Gasthaus” portion of the business
and his daughter the Hotel end of things. But if not, the Rottners will
eventually sell the business as Stefan “cannot see himself standing in front of
a stove at 80!”
I was quickly assured, however, that that eventuality is
still far off as the Rottners are only “40-something.” And so the “harmony of
the spheres” continues unabated in this small enclave on the outskirts of
Nürnberg and I carved yet another notch in my belt for having discovered one
more “hidden jewel” in a sea of the mundane.
%20(Walzer).jpg)
Pythagoras,
an ancient Greek philosopher and mathematician, expressed his concept of a
“Harmony of the Spheres”, the joining and fitting together of all things, the
integration of order and chaos, 2,500 years ago. Stefan and Claudia Rottner have
applied this concept to their Inn and Hotel two and a half millennia later,
lending to it their own unique flair and style.%20(RGB)_DSC00038.jpg)
In
existence since 1812, “Gasthaus Rottner” is a well-established tradition
in Nürnberg; it is also well off the beaten track, located in the western
outskirts of the city in the quiet suburb of Großreuth bei Schweinau. This makes
it ideal for the discerning traveller who wishes to avoid the hustle and bustle
of the city proper. However, it is the food, mostly traditional Bavarian
specialties cooked in Stefan’s own unique way that makes the trip to this inn
truly worthwhile. There is very little that could be deemed “exotic” on this
menu – just superb “old style” venues cooked with panache and flair. And yet
precisely here, I stumbled across an item I had never eaten before: “Geißlein”
– baby goat, soft as butter and exquisite. (OK, so there are some “exotic” or
unusual dishes on the menu…)%20(RGB)_DSC00037.jpg)
A
sampler: Franconian roast sausages served with white asparagus; beef tenderloin
tips sautéed with “pfifferlinge” (chanterelle mushrooms); sorrel
soup with fresh chives and cream; braised sturgeon filets in a sauce made with
Noilly Prat and saffron; ravioli made with “Bärlauch” (ramson or
bear’s garlic) and filled with goat’s cheese and walnuts; deep-fried “Holunder”
(elderberry) blossoms, strawberry confit and a rhubarb-cream gelée
with moccha ice cream; a chocolate and chili “Auflauf” (casserole)
with mascarpone ice cream. And the wines! Best of all were the “gray”
Burgundies from Baden, but the “house” wine, a 2003 Fürst Löwenstein
Riesling was nicely full-bodied and dry as well. The “house” cocktail is quite
unique: sloe-berry wine and champagne (a modified Kir Royale).%20(RGB)%20DSC00047.jpg)
Very
much a family-run operation – Stefan cooks and administrates, spouse Claudia
greets and serves guests, compiles menus and lends her artistic skills to the
“house”, Mother Rottner tends the extensive herb gardens – it is hoped that the
children will take over the business. Their son is beginning his apprenticeship
as a cook and their daughter is involved in honing her equestrian skills. Stefan
hopes that his son will take over the “Gasthaus” portion of the business
and his daughter the Hotel end of things. But if not, the Rottners will
eventually sell the business as Stefan “cannot see himself standing in front of
a stove at 80!”