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Mexican Riviera’s Manzanillo: Eco-Touring to Cuyutlan

By Rick Millikan

Arriving on a Carnival cruise, we gaze at the twin bays of Manzanillo.  Our ship docks alongside towering containers bound for Arizona, Texas and states of Mexico. Following a 1908 railroad link to Guadalajara, the centuries old fishing village became Mexico’s largest Pacific port. Manzanillo only became an "in" destination after Bo Derek and Dudley Moore strutted along Audiencia Beach in the 1979 movie "10".  Buses line up on the quay awaiting sports fishermen, La marine reserve snorkelers, colonial Colima explorers and fellow eco-adventurers travelling to Cuyutlan.

Passing through bustling Manzanillo, we gawk at the gigantic marlin sculpture 25 meters high and weighing 70 tons. As World Sailfish Capital, charter vessels set out for marlin, swordfish, mahi, tuna, and rooster fish.  Tied up at a separate dock shark boats hoist black flags.

Paved with interlocking stones, a walkway winds along the harbor for over a mile. Palms border this “malecon” skirting the waterfront fish market, basketball courts, soccer fields and jaunty sculptures. Small restaurants and budget hotels border a town square across the road.  Pastel yellow, pink and green homes cover a surrounding mountain.

A long lagoon borders our exit from the thriving city. Winding up and over dry foothills, our bus descends onto a fertile coastal plain of extensive coconut plantations. Horses are grazing among the palms. Our guide Salvador tells us, “This crop is very important and used for many products. ‘Iguana men’ climb these palms plucking coconuts.”  On the other side of the coast highway a wide sixty three-kilometer volcanic beach extends to Cuyutlan. Turtles lay their eggs in the hot gray sand for perfect incubation.

Arriving at Cuyutlan’s Ecology Center, we learn how this organization endeavors to educate the public, preserve water habitats, and protect endangered reptiles, including several turtle species, green iguanas and crocodiles. Boarding a modified fishing boat, we set off exploring the adjacent lagoon. Snowy egrets and blue herons perch on waterside branches. On a high snag, a rusty colored eagle peers over his domain. Chugging along, we spot a gnarly black crocodile sunning   near shore.  Being cold blooded, crocs warm themselves up for action. Terns swirl and swoop overhead, a scissor-tailed frigate bird dives into the water plucking out a silvery fish. Yellow-red jacunas prance atop water lily pads. Onward, an iguana swims into the shade of the tumultuous foliage.  Vultures circle overhead.  Docking, we amble along boardwalks shaded by mangrove trees, serenaded by frogs.

The center improves reptile survival.  If unprotected, natural predators eat turtle eggs and poachers sell these as aphrodisiacs. We learn how staff collects and incubates reptile eggs, and then raise the young. Our visit ends as children release baby turtles, which skitter off into the surf.

Lunching at an open-air restaurant in Cuyutlan we savor an exquisite Mexican buffet and look upon another tourist attraction, the “green wall”.  Surfers come to ride emerald waves reaching three meters high. Crossing planked walkways spanning hot blazing sand, families arrive setting up huge umbrellas and enjoy beachside activities. Today’s calm water encourages children to ride colourful inflated tubes, whales and sea serpents.

Out of town Salvador points out a “charro” herding goats. We never see a manzanillo. Strong, flexible, and water resistant, Cortez utilized manzanillo to build galleons to sail into the orient. Manzanillo’s name became Puerto del Manzanillo in 1821 honouring the tree. Four years later Colima’s governor ordered the last manzanillo cut down. Resting under these shady trees, too many citizens and burros had sampled its poisonous apple-like fruit.

Manzanillo rates “10” for both beauty and intriguing adventures. Giving this busy port a fond “hasta la vista,” we’re already planning to return.

Carnival offers Mexican Riviera Cruises setting sail from San Diego.  One eight-day cruise includes the friendly port of Manzanillo.  Details: www.carnival.com

Photos by Rick and Chris Millikan

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