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Cruising Fiji: A Remarkable Two-Island DayBy Chris Millikan
Sailing around Rabi, smiling children and adults greeted us on the beach in Tabiang. Their brass band belted out a rousing “Onward Christian Soldiers,” as we all paraded like celebrities into the shady vaka tuniloa, seating ourselves in chairs. With ceremonial solemnity, traditionally dressed dancers positioned glorious floral crowns on our heads. Following introductions and welcomes, refreshing coconut-juice drinks intrigued and challenged us. Upending the fibrous husks to sip from tiny holes wasn’t that easy. Straws came way too late to prevent drips and chin-dribbles!
Materializing on the sun-drenched rugby field in front of us, a small chorus began singing the powerful stories from their homeland. Student dancers passionately interpreted these moving anthems: whirling grass skirts whispered and swished vigorously; elaborate shell necklaces and belts twirled wildly; girls’ elaborate woven headdresses bobbed as long shiny hair flew; intricate hand-movements and lively footwork appeared effortless. Loaded with locally woven mats and braided bracelets, we rejoined our ship to the lingering brass strains of “Now is the Hour” and unforgettable images of villagers waving farewell from the beach.
Beaming village women placed luscious frangipani and fern coronets upon our heads. In the main hall, grass-skirted men bedecked in palm leaf salusalu garlands and women wearing fuscia-pink floral sulus performed compelling dances with flare. Ten men wailed on an eight-foot drumhead, building loud exotic rhythms to startling crescendos; dancers and a large assembly of singers kept perfect pace, missing not a single beat. Villagers invited us to join them in the meke, merrily laughing as everyone tried valiantly to match frenzied beats with vigorous dance-steps.
This two-island day off the beaten track introduced two distinct Pacific societies prospering on Fiji’s outlying islands. The villagers’ warmth and self-sufficient spirit inspired us all. Travel Planner: Photos by Rick and Chris Millikan |
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While cruising Fiji’s remote northern islands aboard the
Mystique Princess, in just one day we encountered two extraordinary cultures.
Anchored off Albert Cove with Rabi (Ram-bay) Island Council’s blessing, our day
began with sunrise swims and snorkels.
On its isolated pristine beach we met several families
subsisting in thatched bures. A young fellow proudly showed us their papaya
orchard and small corrugated-iron copra-oven. He demonstrated his prized
outrigger, used daily for fishing and paddling his kids to school in Tabiang,
one of four island villages.
A village representative proudly explained the islanders’
background. “We’re Banabans from a small coral atoll in Micronesia, 1600 miles
away,” he declared. “Ocean Island had been devastated by phosphate mining so the
British bought Rabi for our resettlement. As Fijian citizens since 1945, we’ve
adopted the postal, education and money systems, drink kava and are Methodists.
Our language remains Gilbertese and our lifestyle preserves our age-old
traditions.”
We weighed anchor for Kioa, home to over 300 Polynesians
sharing a similar story. Facing overpopulation and depleted soil in the former
Ellis Islands, they bought this one in 1947 and live there today in a colourful
village, continuing their heritage language and customs.
Men and women dressed in sulus and floral headdresses
paddled out to meet us, their flotilla of outriggers draped in greenery. Singing
harmoniously and rhythmically thwacking paddles against canoe-sides, they
circled several times before escorting us to their shores.
Beaching at Saila on eastern Kioa I mused, “I’ll bet early
Missionaries felt differently about such stirring displays…”
While my hubby watched rugby practice unfold on grassy
fields fronting the church, I chitchatted with villagers. Discussing island
life, a matron explained, “Each month families carry supplies from distant towns
in our small outriggers; men fish alone in them every day.” The women excel in
basketry; before re-boarding the ship, I bought lovely baskets at the market.