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On Horseback in Mexico
By Mary Ashcraft
Rancho Las Cascadas surrounded by seven
thousand acres of ranchland in the spectacular Mexican highlands offers its
international guests Swiss attention to detail together with the color and
panache of the real Mexico as experienced on horseback.
Mexico’s introduction to the horse goes back
to the sixteenth century when the Spanish conquistadors brought their Arabian
ponies with them to Spain’s new conquest of North America.
Today the art of
horsemanship can be seen in the country charreadas or Mexican-style rodeos and
in the country’s fine equestrian team that competes internationally.
Considering the long-standing tradition of horsemanship that runs in the thread
of Mexican life, it is surprising that there are few opportunities for the
well-traveled visitor to experience the thrill of exploring Mexico’s magnificent
highlands on the back of a caballo criollo, the disciplined but spirited Mexican
horse.
Several equestrian vacations are offered at some of the
heavily visited coastal resorts of Mexico. Uniquely, Rancho Las Cascadas,
inaugurated less than two years ago, offers the adventurous traveler a view of
“Old Mexico” from the saddle as well as comfortable accommodations decorated
with the sunny colors of Mexico and excellent international and Mexican cuisine.
Visiting experienced riders enjoy the carefully hand picked horses and the
superior amenities offered by Rancho Las Cascadas, but so do guests who have
never been on a horse.
Located less than 50 miles to the north of
Mexico City, halfway between the rural towns of Jilotopec and Tula off highway
57 to Queretaro, Rancho Las Cascadas is situated in a stunning valley several
miles from the main highway in what can truly be described as the old Mexico
with its sparsely populated Big Sky country, rolling hills and great savannahs
carpeted with pink and yellow wild flowers. It is accessible to several
fascinating towns and the important and spectacular ruins of ancient Tula,
thought to have been the seat of the Toltec empire.
Private transport from
Mexico City’s glittering new international airport directly to the ranch is
highly recommended and can be arranged by Rancho Las Cascadas for the one- to
two-hour transfer from the airport.
Rancho Las Cascadas, owned and operated by Swiss-born Ursula
Wipraechtiger, offers riders of all skill levels as well as non riders the
comforts of her intimate ranch that incorporates all the color and imagination
of Mexico’s classic country interiors plus five-star quality service, marvelous
cuisine, and a stable of spirited but disciplined horses. Las Cascadas can
accommodate up to 20 guests, though ten visitors or less make up the average
complement, making for an unprecedented amount of personal attention to the
interests and wishes of individual guests. The guest log includes comments from
pleased visitors from Europe and North America.

True to its name the Ranch of the Cascades
sits on the edge of a ravine overlooking an impressive waterfall that feeds a
secluded swimming hole. Guests may brave the pool, often on the cool side as the
daytime air temperature in this Mexican Eden averages between the mid 70’s to
mid 80’s year round. It is rarely uncomfortably hot at the ranch, and a light
blanket for sleeping at night is frequently required as evening temperatures
drop in this Big Sky countryside.
La Cocina:
Meals at Las Cascadas
deserve special mention. Supervised by an amazing young chef, Valentín Tolentín
Sanchez, three square meals daily are a feast for the eyes as well as the
palate.
In close collaboration with Ursula, Valen prepares an international
cuisine with a definite Mexican attitude. Extraordinary attention is given to
protecting guests from Toltec tummy, and this includes the universal use of
bottled water even for preparing soups. A typical supper might begin with a
delicate cold avocado soup, followed by a savory chicken in chocolate mole sauce
and ending with a refreshing dessert of lime sorbet in vodka. Complimentary
wines accompany lunches and dinners. Valen’s artistic talents are not confined
to the kitchen. The table setting for each meal is imaginative and appropriate
to the menu and to any special holiday. As an example, chicken in chocolate mole
sauce is served on the Day of the Dead (All Hallow’s Eve)-- a tradition in Mexico
since the time of the Aztecs---and Valen decorates the table with the
traditional offerings of the holiday. Fine crystal and china from Switzerland
complete the picture.
Los Caballos:
Walk out to field or stables and meet the horses. The ones
most chosen by guests are Amigo, Machete, Petrush, Sultan, Amadeus, Amber, El
Duque and Cyclon. These and the other horses in Las Cascadas’ stables are all
gelded Mexican quarter horses mixed with criollos, the small native animal.
A
firm admirer of “Horse Whispering” training for her horses, Ursula has a stable
of well mannered animals that are remarkably responsive to the rein, tolerant of
beginners, yet spirited enough to satisfy the most experienced rider. Ursula or
one of her assistants accompanies every group ride, keeping an eye on progress
all the way and making fast rules that include assuring everyone’s preparedness
before a group canter or gallop is initiated. You will be happy to know that all
the horses speak English, German, and French in addition to their native
Spanish. Everything is provided, and all you have to bring are your boots or
hard soled shoes with heels, long pants (blue-jeans are good), a long sleeved
shirt, a hat, and sunscreen.
All-day rides are
highlighted with tasty and inventive picnic lunches. Las Cascadas staff has
traveled ahead to a shady glen, a cooling brook, or grassy hillside to prepare
the table and chill the wine or offer some Tequila Excelente. This is a welcome
respite for hungry and tired riders halfway through a full day in the saddle.
Only the singing of birds or the rushing sound of the brook can be heard as
background to the conversation over lunch.
With more than 7,000 acres to roam around in the valley,
trail rides vary from open savannah to small climbs up rolling hills to rocky
descents into heavily wooded ravines and across gentle streams and can last from
several hours to all-day excursions to local villages and special scenic
destinations. Several working ranches as well as the ruins of haciendas dating
back to pre revolution times are available for Ursula’s riders to explore. Trail
rides are not nose-to-tail single file events, and free rides are encouraged,
except when descending steep and rocky inclines.
Excursiones:
For both riders and non riders, multiple side excursions
can be arranged to interesting locales for sightseeing, shopping, and
experiencing some of the archaeological sights and many traditional holidays for
which Mexico is famous.
Arqueología: Tula
A short twenty-minute car ride from
Rancho Las Cascadas to the city of Tula and its famous Toltec ruins is a morning
well spent discovering ancient Mexico before the arrival of the Aztec culture.
In fact, the old Aztec histories claim the Toltecs as their admired ancestors.
The vast Toltec empire extended from what is now New Mexico in the United States
to Costa Rica in Central America. There is a legend that Tula, the capitol was a
city of grand palaces decorated with gemstones of jade, turquoise, of gold and
the brightly colored feathers of the Quetzal bird. Unfortunately, this shining
city disappeared long ago, but its ruins attest to its greatness.
For the visitor today, the first sight of pyramid B capped
with towering columns sculpted in the form of giant warriors silhouetted against
the incredible blue of the Mexican sky echo the sophistication of this ancient
culture. Patches of images in color remain on the wall showing snakes eating
human skeletons. It is just a small indication as a reminder to us that the
Toltecs eventually ruled as a brutal military empire.
Fiestas:
Located in rural
Mexico, Rancho Las Cascadas is well situated to enjoy the many feast,
celebrations and carnivals that fill the Mexican calendar as they are celebrated
in the old traditional ways.
One of the country’s most celebrated holidays is the Day of
the Dead or All Hallow’s Eve (Halloween) that takes place in late October, and
early November and actually lasts several days. It is a time for all families to
honor and commune with loved ones who have died. In nearby Tepotzotlan, it is a
joyful celebration full of life and color, fireworks and foods, sugary candies
and gifts, and it is all centered in the tree shaded Zócalo in the shadow of the
cathedral, glowing with votive candles, orange Marigold flowers scattered
everywhere, life size skeletons in humorous poses at every turn.


Another face of the Day of
the Dead takes place in nearby Jilotepec in the large secluded cemetery. Early
in the morning people on their way to pay their respects to departed relatives
and friends climb a road heaped on both sides with hundreds of flower. They
progress toward the cemetery gate buying from the flower vendors and carrying on
their shoulders bunches of the favored orange marigolds, purple cockscombs,
white baby’s breath and violet iris.
Stalls line the dirt pathway to the gate
with tables heaped with mounds of pecans, walnuts, almonds, and sunflower seeds,
and fresh cut sugar cane from nearby fields. In the air is the aroma of the
sweet Day of the Dead bread decorated with names of loved ones, and the pungent
aroma of cooking tamales and enchiladas tingle the nostrils. On the graves are
photographs of the deceased along with little dishes of bread, honey sweets and
perhaps a bottle of Tequila. It is all a celebration of life and an acceptance
of death as a continuation of the process, a joyfull time and not a time for
weeping.

Then, every Friday there is the weekly
market in the nearby town of Jilotepec where a shopper can find anything and
everything--from cowboy boots to glazed pottery, wood carvings to traditional
embroidered blouses.
Las Cascadas staff is tuned in to the events and folklore
of the area, and encourages and assists guests in discovering these treasures
for themselves. Rancho Las Cascadas drivers will take interested guests to town
for a few hours or a full day of shopping.
Contact Information:
E-mail=
uschi@ranchomex.com
Web=
http://www.ranchomex.com
Photo Credits: Rod Lopez-Fabrega, Mary Ashcraft, Rancho Las Cascadas
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