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Visting Leeds Castle
A Special “Day Out” from London
By Karen Leeds
I
had spent several days in London and decided I needed a day out of the city but
I didn’t want to rent a car. I also knew I wanted to see something interesting,
historic and beautiful. I had done my research on-line before leaving the States
and found that you can purchase an “All-In-One Ticket” for Leeds Castle which
includes round-trip train, shuttle bus transfer and entrance to the castle,
including any daytime special events, the gardens, grounds and other
attractions. This was exactly what I was looking for—one place to visit in a day
that was just over an hour’s train ride from London that met all my criteria. It
helped a lot that for years I had been very curious to find out how Leeds Castle
got its name. Alas, I was to learn that there is no “family” connection.
I took the tube (underground) to Victoria Station and asked
the South Eastern trains ticket agent for the “All-in-One-Ticket” to Leeds
Castle. Then I had to find the correct platform for the train, and stood with
other passengers anxiously watching the constantly changing train schedule
posting board. When you see your destination finally come up with the platform
number, you can then find the platform and board the train. The train ride was a
pleasant thirty miles ride Southeast of London deep in the lush, green Kent
countryside. The little train station of Bearsted was unmanned that Saturday
morning in May; it was an easy walk through the station and the car park to
where the comfortable, large shuttle bus with friendly driver came along to
whisk us away for a five-minute drive to the entrance to the Castle grounds.
After receiving a brochure/map at the entrance, I started the long, long path to
the castle. The first attraction one sees on entering the grounds is the Duckery,
created in the 1960s. All kinds of wild and domestic waterfowl live in this area
and rear their young. As I walked further, the landscape changed to more of a
wooded glen, bright with bluebells and daffodils, then opened into a meadow
skirted by the river Len that feeds the lake upon which the castle sits.
The lake was vital for defensive purposes since the castle
is situated on two small islands in the middle. You cross a moat after a gate
house, and then enter the castle for a self-guided tour, starting in the
castle’s oldest section.
I learned that the castle is named after its first owner
Leed who was the Chief Minister of the King of Kent. He constructed a wooden
stronghold in the ninth century on the two small islands in a lake formed by the
River Len. The present castle was constructed soon after the Norman conquest and
became a royal palace in the reign of Edward I in 1278. It remained a royal
castle until after the death of Henry VIII, who stayed at Leeds Castle numerous
times, added the Tudor windows, and valued the castle sufficiently to make sure
that improvements were made to the royal apartments. It was from Leeds that
Henry set forth for his meeting at the Fields of the Cloth of Gold with Francis
I of France in 1520, embarking at Dover. This event is portrayed by paintings
in the banqueting hall. Henry VII much valued the services of Sir Anthony St
Leger, and gave him Leeds Castle as a reward although the formal grant was not
made until after Henry’s death in 1552. Leeds Castle then was home to the
Culpeper and Fairfax families, and was owned for over one hundred years by the
Wykeham Martins. In 1926, it was bought for $873,000 by Olive Baillie, an
American heiress (of the Whitney family). Later known as Lady Baillie, she
devoted the rest of her life to restoring the castle and grounds to their former
glory. Her collections of Chinese porcelains, paintings and furniture gives
Leeds a sumptuous quality. The house was left to the nation in 1975 following
her death.
As you move through Leeds Castle, you progress through the
centuries by moving from room to room. By the end of the tour, you visit the
sitting rooms, guest rooms and bedroom of Lady Baillie with its twentieth
century décor.
In addition to the furnished castle, there are a number of
sights including a dog collar museum, a grotto, a maze, an aviary and woodland
walks around parts of the 500 acres of land that comprise the estate.
Dogs have always been at Leeds Castle, hounds for hunting,
mastiffs to guard the castle gate, spaniels and lap dogs for the various queens
who lived at Leeds in earlier times. Lady Baillie was never without several
dogs, and it seems only fitting that Leeds should now house what is probably the
finest collection of antique dog collars in the world.
The aviary contains hundreds of exotic birds from around
the world, with the collection having been started by Lady Baillie who had a
particular interest in parakeets.
The Culpeper
garden is a large cottage garden planted with a wide assortment of colorful
flowers.
The maze is constructed of very high English Yew shrubbery
with a grotto at the center that one can enter and explore. I decided to take a
bench on a little hill overlooking the maze where I watched parents and children
wandering their way through the maze shouting and laughing with frustration.
I happily spent the entire day there, including having
lunch in the very nice restaurant on the grounds. There is a little shuttle
tram that departs from the castle gatehouse every thirty minutes to the car park
which is a real treat because most people are tired at that point.
For more information:
www.leeds-castle.com
www.daysoutguide.co.uk
www.setrains.co.uk
Photos by Karen Leeds
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