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Visting Leeds Castle

A Special “Day Out” from London

By Karen Leeds

I had spent several days in London and decided I needed a day out of the city but I didn’t want to rent a car. I also knew I wanted to see something interesting, historic and beautiful. I had done my research on-line before leaving the States and found that you can purchase an “All-In-One Ticket” for Leeds Castle which includes round-trip train, shuttle bus transfer and entrance to the castle, including any daytime special events, the gardens, grounds and other attractions. This was exactly what I was looking for—one place to visit in a day that was just over an hour’s train ride from London that met all my criteria. It helped a lot that for years I had been very curious to find out how Leeds Castle got its name. Alas, I was to learn that there is no “family” connection.

I took the tube (underground) to Victoria Station and asked the South Eastern trains ticket agent for the “All-in-One-Ticket” to Leeds Castle. Then I had to find the correct platform for the train, and stood with other passengers anxiously watching the constantly changing train schedule posting board.  When you see your destination finally come up with the platform number, you can then find the platform and board the train. The train ride was a pleasant thirty miles ride Southeast of London deep in the lush, green Kent countryside. The little train station of Bearsted was unmanned that Saturday morning in May; it was an easy walk through the station and the car park to where the comfortable, large shuttle bus with friendly driver came along to whisk us away for a five-minute drive to the entrance to the Castle grounds. After receiving a brochure/map at the entrance, I started the long, long path to the castle. The first attraction one sees on entering the grounds is the Duckery, created in the 1960s. All kinds of wild and domestic waterfowl live in this area and rear their young. As I walked further, the landscape changed to more of a wooded glen, bright with bluebells and daffodils, then opened into a meadow skirted by the river Len that feeds the lake upon which the castle sits.

The lake was vital for defensive purposes since the castle is situated on two small islands in the middle. You cross a moat after a gate house, and then enter the castle for a self-guided tour, starting in the castle’s oldest section.

I learned that the castle is named after its first owner Leed who was the Chief Minister of the King of Kent. He constructed a wooden stronghold in the ninth century on the two small islands in a lake formed by the River Len. The present castle was constructed soon after the Norman conquest and became a royal palace in the reign of Edward I in 1278.  It remained a royal castle until after the death of Henry VIII, who stayed at Leeds Castle numerous times, added the Tudor windows, and valued the castle sufficiently to make sure that improvements were made to the royal apartments.  It was from Leeds that Henry set forth for his meeting at the Fields of the Cloth of Gold with Francis I of France in 1520, embarking at Dover.  This event is portrayed by paintings in the banqueting hall. Henry VII much valued the services of Sir Anthony St Leger, and gave him Leeds Castle as a reward although the formal grant was not made until after Henry’s death in 1552. Leeds Castle then was home to the Culpeper and Fairfax families, and was owned for over one hundred years by the Wykeham Martins. In 1926, it was bought for $873,000 by Olive Baillie, an American heiress (of the Whitney family). Later known as Lady Baillie, she devoted the rest of her life to restoring the castle and grounds to their former glory. Her collections of Chinese porcelains, paintings and furniture gives Leeds a sumptuous quality. The house was left to the nation in 1975 following her death.

As you move through Leeds Castle, you progress through the centuries by moving from room to room. By the end of the tour, you visit the sitting rooms, guest rooms and bedroom of Lady Baillie with its twentieth century décor.

In addition to the furnished castle, there are a number of sights including a dog collar museum, a grotto, a maze, an aviary and woodland walks around parts of the 500 acres of land that comprise the estate.   

Dogs have always been at Leeds Castle, hounds for hunting, mastiffs to guard the castle gate, spaniels and lap dogs for the various queens who lived at Leeds in earlier times.  Lady Baillie was never without several dogs, and it seems only fitting that Leeds should now house what is probably the finest collection of antique dog collars in the world.

The aviary contains hundreds of exotic birds from around the world, with the collection having been started by Lady Baillie who had a particular interest in parakeets.

The Culpeper garden is a large cottage garden planted with a wide assortment of colorful flowers.

The maze is constructed of very high English Yew shrubbery with a grotto at the center that one can enter and explore. I decided to take a bench on a little hill overlooking the maze where I watched parents and children wandering their way through the maze shouting and laughing with frustration.

I happily spent the entire day there, including having lunch in the very nice restaurant on the grounds.  There is a little shuttle tram that departs from the castle gatehouse every thirty minutes to the car park which is a real treat because most people are tired at that point.  

For more information:

www.leeds-castle.com

www.daysoutguide.co.uk

www.setrains.co.uk

Photos by Karen Leeds

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