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A Temple Market Find

By Mackenzie McGrath

The distinctive appeal of this market is its location, location, location. Set within the walls of Kyoto's Toji temple, the market reflects the interesting dichotomy existing in this country, where spiritual meets shopper, prayer meets purchase. The action takes place amid the backdrop of Buddhist monks in the midst of meditation. Many of the older Japanese visitors will take a short recess from their shopping frenzy for a brief moment of prayer.

Toji market is a swap meet, rummage sale, and treasure hunt all rolled into one. A buyer's paradise, the tables of bric-a-brac, lined up along the moat that rings the temple, start long before the entrance to the temple grounds. But they're just a teaser. Once you reach the temple gates the bright colors and foreign smells will leave any visitor in awe.

The sheer profusion of "stuff" and press of people make the market such a worthwhile adventure. The stalls are endless and offer anything from flowers to food, accessories to antiques, clothing, shoes and pots and pans. Traditional items—beautiful old ceramics, calligraphy supplies, handmade brushes and brooms, and treasures from a bygone era—sit side-by-side with the plastic purses, flip flops and ever-present cheesy souvenirs.

It gets pretty crowded and is a telling reminder of one's insignificance and impermanence, especially when jostling shoulder to shoulder with the crowds rummaging through the colorful heaps of kimonos—some for as little as ¥1000 yen.

Not far off are the vibrant food stalls, overflowing with fruits, vegetables and nuts. There are endless tables of nori (seaweed) and roasted chestnuts; dried mangoes and strawberries, often considered a delicacy for some, are also quite common. The samples are plentiful and free, so don't be afraid to try the foods – even though a lot of it looks pretty daunting.

For those needing a nosh, the takoyaki, okonomiyaki and noodle stands are plentiful, affordable and pretty damn good. And there's definitely no lack of alcohol, should you require a quick beer break.

The repetition of some items on sale can get a bit monotonous but it makes the discovery of unusual items that much more special. Like the man selling scoops of honey right off a honeycomb! It was the best honey ever and a stellar photo opportunity.

Bargaining is de rigeur in markets such as these and foreigners with a less than fluent command of Japanese should jump in and treat the haggling as a great opportunity to practice. It is a good way to communicate with the locals, even if it's with your fingers, stick figure drawings and plenty of pantomime. Just don't forget the laughter and goodwill.

Toji Market (075-691-3352) takes place on the 21st of every month. The 1st Sunday is most for antiques. From Kyoto Station, take the Kintetsu line to Toji Station

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