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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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NY Theater: “The Coast of Utopia:
Voyage, Shipwreck, Salvage”

Stoppard’s uneaven pastiche about 19th century Russian radicals

By Lucy Komisar

Tom Stoppard’s theater trilogy about Russian radicals and reformers of the 19th century is a drawing room drama of upper class life overlaid with the revolutionary ideas that set the stage for the Russian revolution. The content is disappointing, a Russian history “lite” that seems to want to make viewers feel as if they are getting to know the shapers of history without being forced to concentrate too seriously or for too long on their actions and ideas.

Characters are placed and moved through stylized vignettes as if in a diorama, in tableaux. The pageants are beautiful, but sometime they lack substance. Often there are pronouncements instead of dialogue. And, unfortunately, just announcing events rather than showing them makes even exciting history lifeless.

The best part of the production is the stunning staging by director Jack O’Brien. “Salvage” opens with the cooing of pigeons and the lapping of waves made real by sound and light. There’s little scenery: perhaps a dining table, the bed and table in someone’s room, a villa’s silvery chairs or, in summer, rattan, and a chandelier that seems to be an onion domed ice sculpture. All are set on a shiny round black marble stage. (The sets are by Bob Crowley and Scott Pask.) The clothes of the aristocracy lend fashionable elegance, especially at a Russian costume ball. (Costumes are by Catherine Zuber.)

The epic begins in 1833, on the estate of the family of Michael Bakunin, now known to the world as the originator of anarchism, and takes us through 35 years with the story of six friends, intellectual aristocrats, who sought to change the repressive Czarist regime. They are imbued with the ideas of cutting-edge European philosophers and writers – of Kant and Hegel and of novelist George Sand. During the next decade, many of them visit the estate of Alexander Herzen, a reformer who has inherited a fortune from his father. The story moves with them to Paris and the heady days of the Revolution of 1848, then to London and finally to Geneva. Meanwhile, Herzen founds “The Bell,” a broadsheet that is smuggled into Russia.

There is serious realism when two radicals tell Herzen about a writer jailed for a theater review that offended the czar. Or of the fear of living in a time when “somebody sitting next to you in class disappears for insulting the Czar’s portrait.”

But that’s not the stuff of the plot. In spite of purporting to present to us the ideas and history of the figures he depicts, underlined by publicity about how many history books he read in preparation, Stoppard appears fascinated primarily by the intimate lives of the famous. The views and actions of important historical figures such as Herzen (given a performance of sympathy and depth by Brian F. O’Byrne) and Bakunin (a larger-than-life Ethan Hawke) vie for attention with Herzen’s marital problems or Bakunin’s repeatedly borrowing money from friends and family. Drinking, unfaithfulness and personal tragedies are used to spice up the story, but after a while, what might be interesting detail overwhelms the significant narrative.

The intellectuals themselves are often cartoonish, with comic opera shouting and posturing. Bakunin and literary critic Vissarion Belinsky (Bill Crudup) seem ridiculous clowns.

Bakunin prances in and out and declaims about life and art. He cavorts and runs and growls and screeches. He runs through philosophers like a new age devotee running through gurus, announcing with each new discovery, “Kant is the man,” or “Fichte is the man” or “Hegel is the man.” Later, he proclaims that, “The first task is to destroy authority; there is no second task.”

Belinsky says what he believes, no matter who it offends, but rather than showing him as a man of principle, Crudup portrays him as a bit of a jerk.

In chic Hampstead, in 1853, we see the Left at a ball, with Marx (Adam Dannheisser), Italian nationalist leader Giuseppe Mazzini (Brian Sgambati) and the other internationalists musing and dreaming of world revolution. Herzen dismisses what he calls the theater of political exiles. Stoppard must agree; the event itself is presented as vaudeville.

And what about the women? Amy Irving, Jennifer Ehle, and Martha Plimpton in multiple roles, especially Irving as Maria Ogarev, estranged wife of Herzen’s hard-drinking friend Nicholas; Ehle as Herzen’s wife Natalie and then as his children’s governess; and Martha Plimpton as Natlie’s friend, the intense Natasha Tuchkov, offer excellent portrayals as the action turns to revolve around them.

They play a major role, but not for the reasons one might expect in a political play. The female characters are mostly reasonably bright women who spend their free moments thinking about husbands. Bakunin argues for the education of women and for love matches. Did none of the women in that radical milieu ever challenge women’s role? Even the one woman who attends political meetings seems more interested in men than ideas.

Is this an attempt at a Shavian combination of politics and manners? Or perhaps Stoppard wants to show that the men’s inability to organize a political movement is mirrored by the messiness of their personal lives and betrayals. At any rate, “Fiddler on the Roof” makes more of a feminist statement about the role of women in Russia.

The trilogy is overloaded with trivia. Herzen argues about paying for the Polish opposition. Marx won’t share a platform with him at the 1848 anniversary at St Martin’s Hall. Herzen begins in measured tones about the need for change, even revolution. Then in the second play he is consumed with his wife. Not to dismiss his own family’s importance to Herzen, but that’s not why he interests the rest of us.

While the “revolutionaries” are prancing around declaiming about life, illusion and art and how they will save the downtrodden, behind a gauzy curtain we see lines of people immobile, dressed in sepia shrouds, like spirits. The serfs remain a silent backdrop. Perhaps Stoppard’s most telling point is that the radical elite describes properties not in hectares or acres but in the number of “souls” who work the land. The naïveté of the aristo-intellectuals is their apparent surprise that when 50 million serfs are freed without sources of livelihood, there are riots on estates when they are charged rent.

Stoppard’s trilogy gives us a taste of Russian radical history and philosophy “lite.” Still, in an era when American theater is dominated by revivals, even an imperfect new Stoppard work is welcome.

“The Coast of Utopia: Voyage.” Written by Tom Stoppard. Directed by Jack O’Brien. Sets by Bob Crowley & Scott Pask. Costumes by Catherine Zuber. Starring Billy Crudup, Richard Easton, Jennifer Ehle, Josh Hamilton, David Harbour, Jason Butler Harner, Ethan Hawke, Amy Irving, Brían F. O’Byrne, Martha Plimpton, Bianca Amato, Mia Barron, Larry Bull, Denis Butkus, Michael Carlsen, Amanda Leigh Cobb, Anthony Cochrane, Patricia Connolly, David Cromwell, Adam Dannheiser, Matt Dickson, Aaron Krohn, Felicity LaFortune, Jennifer Lyon, David Manis, Andrew McGinn, Kellie Overbey, Scott Parkinson, David Pittu, Annie Purcell, Eriak Rolsfrud, Brian Sgambati, Robert Stanton, Eric Sheffer Stevens, Baylen Thomas, David C. Wells.

Vivian Beaumont Theater, 150 W. 65 St. Running time 2:40. Through May 13, 2007. $65-$100. 212-239-6200. For performance calendar: http://www.coastofutopia.com/

by Paul Kolnik

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