The Baroque Architecture and Fine Cuisine of Antigua Guatemala
By Fran Folsom
Antigua Guatemala is the only city in Guatemala that still
retains its Spanish Colonial Baroque architecture. This was the Colonial capital
of Guatemala from 1543 to 1773 when most of the city was destroyed by
earthquakes and fires following the eruption of Fuego volcano. After that, the
Spanish king, fearing more earthquakes, moved the capital to the present day
site of Guatemala City, 25 kilometers (16 miles) northeast.
Founded in 1543, Antigua Guatemala lies in the valley of
three volcanoes, Aqua, Acatenango, and Fuego, which is still active.
Thirty-eight monastic orders called Antigua home, building convents, monasteries
and cathedrals, using Maya slave laborers, who put their own intricately carved
designs on the Baroque buildings.
 Today
Antigua Guatemala remains the New World’s best single repository of Spanish
Colonial Baroque architecture. In 1979 UNESCO designated it a World Heritage
Site and a Tribute to the Americas for its civil and ecclesiastical
architectural monuments.
Having been destroyed through the years by earthquakes,
most of the city’s buildings are 18th-century reconstructions. Antigua’s
greatest structures lie in ruins, masses of bougainvillea hanging from their
charred remnants adds to their haunting beauty.
Bordering the narrow cobblestone streets are single story
stucco houses in pastel shades of pink, yellow or green topped with red tile
roofs.
 Everywhere
I went the sights and sounds of the city enveloped me; uniformed school children
playing riotous games of soccer in schoolyards, mothers carrying their babies on
their backs in a wrap slung over their shoulders called a tsute, and women
wearing huipils (we peels), traditional blouses in brilliant colors with
intricate hand embroidered designs and wrap skirts in various patterns.
Nim Po’t textile museum’s exhibits tell of the traditional
Maya dress, I learned the history of the skirts; the patterns represent the town
that the wearer is from. Another indication of the deep traditions of this
country. The museum’s shop and galleries highlight the creations of expert
weavers from all over Guatemala.
This is a country of extreme poverty; many people can’t
afford things that we take for granted such as washing machines. Twice a week
women gather at the fountain outside of the Convent of Santa Clara to wash their
laundry, hanging it to dry on the convent’s fence. Several women offered
to go to my hotel, collect my laundry, wash and dry it, and return it to, all
for one Quetzal (kit sale) a Guatemalan dollar, or $.15 cents US. Not wanting my
laundry spread out for everyone in town to see, I politely refused but handed
each of them a few Quetzals for which I was given many hugs and smiles as a
thank you.
 In
the streets and market areas, women and children, their arms and heads piled
high with their goods haunt you with “Madam please buy. Madam look how beautiful
this is”. They zero in on women, because in their culture only the women do the
shopping. These sellers are smart dollar wise, they quote you the price in
Quetzal’s and US dollars. Always bargain, it’s expected.
Seeing the poverty and the fact that many buildings still
needed restoration, even from twentieth century earthquakes, I recalled what a
friend said to me “Guatemala is a country of great needs, and difficult
politics”. That being said, Antigua is a beautiful and fascinating city, easy to
get around on foot as it’s laid out on a flat grid. I rambled through the city
on my own, and made out fine with my limited Spanish, maps, and hand gestures.
Centuries ago the palm studded Parque Central, between
Calle del Curio and Calle del Conquistador, was where the Maya would bring their
goods to trade between tribes. Today, it is an excellent place from which to
start exploring Antigua’s Baroque architecture.
Kittycorner to the park is the Town Hall, built in 1743
this two story multi arched building houses two museums; the Saint James Museum
with its collection of antique weapons dating to Maya times, and the Antique
Book Museum, worth a quick stop to see the replica of the first printing press
that was brought to Antigua in 1660.
Crossing Parque Central brought me to the cathedral of St.
Joseph, the largest church in Antigua; it includes five naves, and 68 smaller
chambers. Carved into the façade are sculptures of Saint James, the Virgin Mary,
Jesus Christ and the Twelve Apostles. Construction started in 1542 and was not
completed until 1680. The church was destroyed by the 1773 earthquake and
re-built the following year.
Next door to St. Joseph’s is the Museum of Colonial Art
which was once the site of the first university in Guatemala, the University of
San Carlos established in 1687, it now houses exhibits depicting what life was
like in 18th-century Guatemala.
 A
few blocks north of Parque Central is another historical landmark, the Santa
Catalina Arch, originally part of a church and convent built in 1606. Beyond the
arch is the church of Our Lady of Mercy, known simply as La Merced.
Built in 1552, La Merced is the finest example of Baroque
architecture in Antigua. Its Churrigueresque decorations were applied during a
19th-century restoration that included the installation of massive columns and
statues of saints filling the churches many niches.
 The
adjacent convent, Las Capuchinas, was founded in 1736 by nuns from Madrid.
Despite its elegant façade, inside are exhibits depicting the rigors of colonial
religious life; 18 cells where nuns did penance for their transgressions with
prayer and self mortification.
Besides being the architectural hub of Guatemala, Antigua
is a culinary find. Dining choices range from traditional Guatemalan
specialties to Mexican, Italian, Spanish, Austrian, French, and Asian fare.
Although the street food smells tempting, it’s best to
stick with restaurants; the Posada de don Rodrigo is famous for its chicken
peten with fresh vegetables in a spicy mole sauce, Hotel Casa Santo Domingo
serves flawless seafood, and Café Las Palmas is where you can get great fajitas.
Another perk, most of the city’s restaurants offer alfresco dining on lush
garden terraces, perfect for resting tired feet.
 If
staying in Antigua more than one day, Hotel Casa Santo Domingo is a sixteenth
century monastery turned into a luxury hotel. At night, behind thick stucco
walls, it’s a peaceful oasis. The cloisters, where friars once prayed and
walked, are lit only by candles. A small museum holds exhibits of ancient
artifacts excavated from the beautiful grounds and ruins surrounding the hotel.
If You Go
For information on immunizations contact the Center for Disease Control
www.cdc.gov
Inguat – Institute of Guatemalan Tourism
www.visitguatemala.com
www.guatemala-travel.com
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo
www.casasantodomingo.com
Hotel Posada de don Rodrigo
www.posadadedonrodrigo.com
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