Way Beyond Bunnies
Parisian Easter Chocolates, Humble to Haute
By Sally Peabody
 As
the weeks draw down to Easter Sunday, Parisian chocolatiers work triple-overtime
filling their shops with a glorious array of delectable chocolates made only for
this special season. Tempting chocolates are everywhere … in the patisseries,
the speciality chocolatiers and in those sweet little candy shops called
confiseres which stock candies from all over France including copious selections
of chocolates.
Indeed, a gift of chocolate at Easter is an absolute must
for friends and family of all ages. Not surprisingly, the vast selection
available in the French capital goes way beyond adorable bunnies and chicks.
The offerings include the very traditional dark-chocolate fish of various sizes
including the darling ‘friture’ which are tiny dark chocolate fish often packed
into straw baskets or chocolate boxes and which resemble a school of delicious
little fish. Then there are chocolates shaped like bells symbolizing the
ringing out of the good news on Easter, along with goblets, crosses and scallop
shells, the symbol of St. James. Add to this bounty all manner of flavored and
pure chocolate eggs in various sizes and a fantasy array of chocolate animals
such as donkeys, elephants, camels, rabbits, bunnies, chicks, ducks and geese.
 Here
is a sampler of sources to tempt any chocolate lover’s tastebuds. Master
chocolatiers such as Jean Paul Hevin create stunning edible artistic
masterpieces with new works released each year. This year, a particular stunner
is a dark chocolate fish emerging from a goblet, each a timeless symbol of
spring and of Easter. Jean-Charles Rochoux, in St. Germain, creates fabulous
‘eggs’ that are filled with rich chocolate praline piped into real egg shells,
sealed with a tiny gold square and adorned with a perfect little chick made of
white chocolate and artfully colored to resemble the real thing. Nestled in
straw in an egg carton just like those in which fresh eggs are sold in the
markets, this is a sophisticated and understated confection.
For those who savor tea and chocolate pairings, the master
tea blenders at Mariage Freres not only create an annual Easter-tea blend called
The de Paques, they also work with their chocolatier to craft beautiful Easter
chocolates infused with the seasonal tea and dusted with roasted tea leaves.
La Bonbonerie de la Trinitie near the Gare St. Lazare is a
perennially alluring top-quality neighborhood chocolate shop in the ninth
arrondissement which is even more inviting at Easter-time. The shelves are
chock full of beautiful creations both traditional and innovative. Here I found
the greatest array of fantastic chocolate animals, including adorable little
chocolate donkeys pulling carts stacked with chocolate ‘logs’ lined up alongside
endearingly fierce-looking chocolate gorillas along with the bells, balls,
bunnies, variously tempting styles of candy eggs, alongside schools of chocolate
fish. One can easily envisage indulgent French grandmothers or parents taking
delight in stocking up on their Easter gifts here, for beloved children and
chocolate fanciers of all ages.
 Natier
is another charming little premium quality chocolate shop that serves a savvy
family clientele in a bustling residential quarter just south of Pigalle. Here
you will find gorgeous chocolate baskets filled with fanciful Easter treats all
made with premium milk and high cocoa-content chocolates. Consider their
delectable versions of traditional bunnies or small praline eggs, (some of them
covered with nougatine), hens, bells, fish in several sizes either filled or
plain, plus the beloved “friture” in 70% dark, milk, white and orange flavors.
Natier also offers small nests made of gianduja with pistachio, real egg-shells
filled with chocolate, several kinds of eggs for children, and numerous
chocolate medallions. Abundance is the order of the day here.
Chocolates are indispensable to Parisian Easter
celebrations. As ever in this city seemingly obsessed with gastronomic
perfections, the artisans that supply Parisian chocolate-lovers endeavor to
surpass all expectations to tempt, delight, and seduce their customers. And
then there are those chocolate gorillas… just plain fun!
Sally Peabody, President of Your Great Days in Paris, is a
Paris Specialist and writer. She leads small-scale culinary tours to Paris
including one focused on Tea and Chocolate.
http://www.yourgreatdaysinparis.com
Photos from Mariage Freres and Jean Paul Hevin
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