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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Strolling LevukaFiji's Heritage CapitalBy Chris MillikanSnuggled on Ovalau Island's eastern side just ten air minutes off Fiji's 'mainland,' Levuka's extraordinary past harkens to the 1800's. Then popular with sailors, whalers and sandalwood traders, today Levuka is easily Fiji's most picturesque town.
"Swashbuckling privateer Bully Hayes used to stay here," George began. "And slave auctions took place over in front of the hotel. Sea captains liked rooms facing the harbour, not for the spectacular views, but to keep an eye on their ships," he grinned. I could visualize Rudyard Kipling or Robert Louis Stevenson boarding here during their South Seas escapades.
Getting a facelift for centennial celebrations, the stone Church of the Holy Redeemer stood open. Above the immense island-carved mahogany altar inside, intricate stained glass windows memorialized early residents. We chatted with exuberant young school children in pink and white uniforms peeking curiously around heavy doors.
Next to a trickling creek, we entered a humble Methodist Church (1869) where Cakabau had worshipped. " Abandoning warlord ways and cannibal practices, he adopted Christianity about 1864," George reported. "Until then, Methodist missions in the islands were fairly unsuccessful."
Oldest in Fiji, timeworn Navoka Methodist Church (1860) remains near the 199 steps leading up Mission Hill. Nestling along the hillside, beautifully preserved colonial homes enjoy turquoise sea-views. A block away, we passed sun-bleached government offices, courthouse and weather beaten police station (1874). Beside a winding creek, Levuka Public School (1881) provided Fiji's first formal education, schooling the elite for a shilling a week, six pence for additional children. Not so long ago, George taught here himself. Across a nearby bridge, we stopped in at Fiji's oldest social club. You can talk about old times over a cold drink, even if you're not a member at the Ovalau Club. Originally celebrating Queen Victoria's silver jubilee, Town Hall (1898) has housed council offices ever since. Burned down during a coup attempt in 2000, the Masonic Lodge (1875) remains a stone skeleton next door.
Across the lane, an unexpectedly dramatic stone tower fronts the painted wooden Sacred Heart Catholic Church (1858). Its French clock, one of 12 worldwide, still gongs village time every hour. The town's only neon, an unexpected green cross beckons ships at sea. Our walk ended at Morris Hedstrom trading store. Built by local families in 1868, it now encloses the community center, library and museum. In the museum, artifacts explaining local culture fascinated us: marvelous seashells, a remarkable sitar, period , elaborately carved war clubs, decorated cannibal forks, and whale-tooth hair ornaments worn by chiefs. A surprising machine once punched pearly buttons from shells. Vintage printing presses first published the still thriving Fiji Times in Levuka, chronicling turmoil, unrest, and violence, "every shed a grog shop." Robert Philip wrote in 1872: "Roguery and scheming at every hand...and no government to enforce laws or clean up the brawling settlement." Colonial rule soon subdued the wild town.
Shaded by spreading trees alive with raucous bird choruses, we ambled back along the 100 year old seawall built by Royal Engineers. Wearing beautiful floral sulus and carrying string bags stuffed with local vegetables, women called out "Bula! Bula!"
Fanned by gentle trade winds, we sipped fresh mango juice on the verandah. Exuberant magpies heralded another dazzling sunset. Though Levuka's wild days have long gone, her alluring past lives on. Travel Planner: Fiji Tourism www.bulafiji.com Royal Hotel: www.royallevuka.com To arrive in style & comfort: Blue Lagoon Cruises
www.bluelagooncruises.com First Landing
www.firstlandingfiji.com |
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Checking
into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters
would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to
walk on the pristine beach.
That
evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby
Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on
the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home,
with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.
In
the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most
prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the
river.
While
the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday
Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes
New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.
The
next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach,
although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the
terrific weather.
I
had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin
Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the
Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.
That
evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the
gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese,
with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood
specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal
Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red
snapper served with collard greens and ribs.
Sunday
morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by
fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short
but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.
The Royal Hotel (1860) snapped us into another era. Exotic
blossoms cascaded from antique vases on little tables. Polished hardwood floors,
grainy vintage , high ceilings, lazily whirling fans and century-old
billiard table conjured bygone days. In a sunroom filled with comfy rattan
furniture, we met our guide George, a former Lord Mayor. He soon led my hubby
and I through this little heritage town, once the South Pacific's lawless 'black
birding' center.
At the seafront, his tale continued. " Cakobau left his
fortress island, landing about here. The chief declared himself Fiji's King and
built his first village nearby at Nasau Park." Sighting a stark white war
memorial atop Niukaube Hill, George pointed, "Later Cakobau's courts and
parliament covered that entire hill overlooking the wild north end of town."
Farther on at Levuka Fijian Village, George recalled, "Way
before Cakobau, this was home to the first chief to befriend early settlers. Tui
Levuka developed a reputation for generous hospitality in the islands." We
delighted in one sailor's story. "In 1828, David Whippy was dispatched ashore to
investigate cured sea cucumber supplies, popular in Asian markets. Nobody came
back for him. Stranded, Whippy married a local wife and developed a shipyard
that survived until the 1990's."
In an adjacent cemetery, we gazed at a few settler
headstones. "J.B. Williams was an American agent in Fiji," George stated. "When
his luxury home burned down during July 4th celebrations in 1849, he accused
Fijians of theft, claiming compensation from Cakabau, a debt that haunted the
King for many years. Embarrassed, he eventually ceded Fiji to Queen Victoria
1874, making Levuka our first capital."
Coral-stone Marist Convent School sprawled dazzling white
against a backdrop of emerald mountains. Once a girl's boarding school, these
days it provides co-ed day classes.
George bid us adieu outside immense copra warehouses from
the1930's. A small drinking fountain there marks the first 'airmail' service at
Pigeon Post. " In those days, carrier pigeons took only 30 minutes to Suva and
they seemed much more reliable! " Chuckling, he shuffled off.
Colourful shop fronts lined the quiet main street, the
painted weatherboard and coral-rock buildings evoking frontier tales. It was
easy to imagine early shops, boarding houses and the 52 bawdy saloons once
sprawling along Beach Street and up adjoining lanes.