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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.
I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.
Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp.
The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.
After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.
At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.
The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen.
The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getawayby Jo Ann HoltWhere do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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Categories: Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway By Jo Ann Holt Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama? In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful area. After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too. Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event. (Sunrise on Dauphin Island) Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach. Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf. I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon. The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide. (Bellingrath Alabama Cruise) That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens. These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile. Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp. Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. (Bellingrath Gardens and home) In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river. After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings. Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife. (Holiday Lights at Bellingrath) While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S. The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home. While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. (Dauphin Island) The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather. I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back. For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine. After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System. With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions. The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds. The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted. (Fort Gaines) I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo. First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707. At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S. In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended. That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819. One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture. In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines. While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864. Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines. Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense. Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week. (Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home) That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs. The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants: True and True Midtown Kitchen. (Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn) Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre. As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries. A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese. Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown. The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store. The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge. Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home. After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me. This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too! # # # www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm www.alabamacoastalconnection.com
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New York City’s Exchange Hotel Wraps GuestsIn a ‘Chocolate Covered Weekend’By Madelyn MillerI have just returned from judging a chocolate festival. You would think that by now I would have had enough chocolate.
My next chocolate adventure will be the Chocolate Covered Weekend at the Exchange Hotel. Calling all Chocoholics! The newly renovated Exchange Hotel, located in lower Manhattan, serves up a delicious getaway with the Chocolate Covered Weekend. Whether traveling for a special occasion like an anniversary or Valentine’s Day or just sweet on suites, this boutique hotel highlights Manhattan’s delicious chocolate center with a customized and affordable way to enjoy an epicurean weekend away. CHOCOLATE CENTERWhen I read about the Exchange Hotel and the delicious chocolate center, I started wondering –was it a ganache? Was it flavored with something uniquely New York. Stay tuned and I will report back. CHOCOLATE FOR TWOI am traveling alone, but I can eat enough chocolate for two. This two-night package includes: two nights in a spacious suite and a private walking tour of Manhattan’s most notable chocolate hallmarks, led by Carmen Botez of Chocolate Zoom Magazine. This three-hour tour will include stops at Christopher Norman Chocolates in the Financial District; Vosges Haut-Chocolat which is a compelling world of wonder with its carefully decorated interior and its tasteful concept; Kee’s Chocolates where guests will have the chance to see the owner of the shop making the chocolates; MarieBelle, in Soho; and Jacques Torres’ new boutique in Hudson Square where the manager will offer a private tour and explain the inner workings of chocolate, while guests can enjoy watching people making chocolate in the factory. The whole journey will conclude with a tasting of truffles and the Hot Wicked Fun in the boutique. In addition, guests of the Chocolate Covered Weekend will enjoy two complimentary Mexican Chocolate Mojitos or non-alcoholic Aztec Iced Chocolate at the Exchange Lounge; special delivery of a chocolate pizza and wings from New York’s own Chocolate Pizza Company and a six-pack of Coke or Diet Coke, completes the package. IN MY OPINION, CHOCOLATE IS A PRICELESS EXPERIENCEBut since you asked: Chocolate Covered Weekend is available for $1200, double occupancy and is inclusive of tax and service charges, now until December 16, 2006, subject to availability. This rate shows a 24 percent savings off rack rates. Winter 2007 rates are $1000 and reflect a 32 percent savings. Advanced reservations are strongly advised. “It is hard to believe, but even New York City is better covered in chocolate,” states Rani Carr, Exchange Hotel general manager. The Exchange Hotel is also the Premier Hotel Partner for the upcoming 9th Annual Chocolate Show in New York City. The Chocolate Show is a three day festival devoted entirely to chocolate, taking place this year at the Metropolitan Pavillion & Altman Building on November 10-12, 2006. For more information, please visit www.chocolateshow.com. About the Exchange Hotel
About The Chocolate Pizza CompanyIn 1919 Martha Jane bought a candy making kit and began making delicious toffees. By 1921 she had fifty employees and a very popular product. Her tradition continues as we are still making deliciously unique specialty chocolates that are sure to leave a lasting impression on your family. Signature items include the decadent Chocolate Pizza topped with walnuts, pecans and almonds and then drizzled with white chocolate and the unforgettable Peanut Butter Wings. For more information please call 800-280-9381 or visit www.chocolatepizza.com MORE FANTASIES FOR CHOCOHOLICSChocolatier Magazine FINE CHOCOLATES THE ESSENCE OF CHOCOLATE 125 BEST CHOCOLATE CHIP RECIPES 125 BEST CHOCOLATE RECIPES 101 PERFECT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES BITTERSWEET THE EVERYTHING CHOCOLATE BOOK BAKE AND FREEZE CHOCOLATE DESSERTS ALL ABOUT CHOCOCOLATE CHOCOLATE CRAZY Mr. Food Simply Chocolate The Chocolate Lover’s Guide CHOCOLATE from the CAKE MIX DOCTOR 365 Great Chocolate Desserts THE TOTALLY CHOCOLATE COOKBOOK CHOCOLATE THE LITTLE BOOK OF CHOCOLATE CINNAMON MORNINGS AND CHOCOLATE DREAMS SOUNDS OF CHOCOLATEMusic from the Chocolate Lands GOOD DEEDS WITH CHOCOLATEChef Hilly Blondheim has put his culinary skills to good
use and turned a simple boyhood treat into a life-saving instrument in the fight
against breast cancer. Whether its sprinkled on top of fruit or ice cream, to
enhance the flavor of coffee or a smoothie, blended into waffle or pancake
batter, used in a chocolate martini, sampled as fondue, or simply to make the
best cup of hot chocolate you have ever tasted, the possibilities for this
gourmet chocolate mix are endless. CHOCOLATE TRAVEL OPPORTUNITIES"The Chocolate Society café and shop at 36 Elizabeth Street, SW1 London. A mecca for the chocoholic. Celebrating chocolate as a gourmet delicacy, there are handmade truffles, biscuits and all sorts of other chocolate-based goodies. The shop is open from Monday to Saturday - for more information call 020 7259 9222." GREAT CHCOLATE MOUSSE FESTIVAL Sutton Place Hotel weekend chocolate buffet Hershey, Pennsylvania Norwegian Caribbean Lines Chocolate tea buffet Kona Chocolate Festival Chocolate Festival MADELYN’S FAVORITE CHOCOLATE TREATSDoubletree Hotel chocolate chip cookies Fairytale Chocolate Brownies 800-fairytale www.brownies.com Chocolate Cowboy Crunch from Bumblee Bee’s Baja Grill. 505-820-2862, Santa Fe, New Mexico. You can buzz through and buy them for $2.50 per package. Other irresistible treats are the Cowgirl kisses made of white chocolate and Espresso Brownies. Norman Love’s truffles www.normanloveconfections.com 239-561-7215 Dark Chocolate popcorn from Panache Popcorn is doubly delicious and twice as healthy when covered with chocolate (isn't everything?). Enjoy it even more because now we know chocolate is good for your heart and sex life and popcorn has lots of fiber. I can't think of anything else this delicious and this healthy. Panache Chocolatier on the web at www.chocolatekc.com or call 1-877-641-9092 MADELYN’S FAVORITE CHOCOLATE DESSERTSFrozen Hot Chocolate at Serendipity in New York Lollipop Tree at DavidBurke and Donatella in New York (okay, it is not ALL chocolate but it is so wonderful I am making an exception) Chocolate Hotel Chocolate Sushi at Steel Restaurant in Dallas Morton’s signature chocolate dessert Roy’s chocolate Lava Cake…or the sometimes offered chocolate bento box The 16 layer chocolate cake at the Colony in Hyatt Regency Waikiki in Hawaii Chocolate Warrior Mask served in the Japanese restaurant at Hilton Waikoloa Village on the Big Island. TOTAL BODY CHOCOLATE EXPERIENCESThe double chocolate pedicure at Bliss Spa The Golden Door Spa in Carefree, Arizona offers the Chocolate Champagne Body Wrap. This Valentine's Day-inspired treatment teases the senses with tantalizing aromas while rejuvenating the skin. The treatment begins with a double exfoliation using chocolate, Ayurvedic herbs and natural fruit acids. An anti-oxidant mask of vitamins, green tea, chocolate and fruit of choice is then applied to the body and spritzed with champagne or healing vanilla water. The guest is wrapped like a delectable morsel while the active elements begin to renew and restore the body. Following a light shower, the body is caressed with an intensive hydrating cream. This unforgettable sensory adventure concludes with the guest's choice of custom-made chocolate in the same taste as the body treatment. At New Orleans Belladona Day spa you can almost OD on
chocolate be a chocoholic: the choco-palooza body deluxe CHOCOLATE DRINKSThe Chocolate Jacuzzi Martini HOW TO BE A CHOCOLATE BARTENDERINSIDER TIP: Unlike instant hot chocolate mixes, Schokinag’s drinking chocolate is made with real, gourmet-quality chocolate that comes in the form of tiny “microchips.” The result is an easy-to-make chocolate beverage that is richer, creamier and more flavorful than its competition. MOST EROTIC CHOCOLATE OPPORTUNITYTodos Santos in Santa Fe, New Mexico offers a chocolate kama sutra set. Since I visited right after Valentine’s Day, they were sold out. Not surprisingly, they cost $69. They can ship them anywhere with a weeks notice. I am sorry I could not photograph them to give my readers a titillating preview. Another interesting offering is “after dinner saints”. You could also use them after any sin. Saint boxes cost $28 for a box of four, $56 for a box of eight and $84 for twelve saints. I wonder what sins you commit would need a dozen saints for redemption? Todos Santos Chocolates and Confections, 125 East Palace Avenue #31, Santa Fe, New Mexico (505) 982-3855 BEST CHOCOLATE CHRISTMAS TREATSEverything you need to know for the twelve days of Xmas.
This list will make you wish the holiday lasted longer. Madelyn Miller loves chocolate. She goes all over the world searching for the ultimate chocolate experiences. Read her stories on www.chocolateatlas.com, www.cocktailatlas.com, www.teaAtlas.com, www.carladynews.com and www.travellady.com |
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Checking
into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters
would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to
walk on the pristine beach.
That
evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby
Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on
the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home,
with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.
In
the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most
prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the
river.
While
the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday
Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes
New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.
The
next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach,
although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the
terrific weather.
I
had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin
Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the
Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.
That
evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the
gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese,
with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood
specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal
Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red
snapper served with collard greens and ribs.
Sunday
morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by
fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short
but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.
But too much is never enough (is that what they said about
money?
Relaunched in April 2006 as the Exchange Hotel, this
53-room boutique hotel is nestled moments away from Wall Street’s flurry and
only a short distance from the South Street Seaport and Historic Front Street.
The property accommodates both business and leisure travelers with dynamic
amenities like WiFi access, flat-screen TVs, full kitchens, and exceptional
guest service. Whether taking a break from work or from touring New York City,
this renovated hotel pleases all guests with its comfortable atmosphere and
stylish approach to hospitality services. For more information or reservations,
please call 212-742-0003 or visit the website at