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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Wonderful Malaysia - Truly Asia!

by Robert Painter

Selamat datang.

Does the name Kuala Lumpur sound exotic to you? Or Putrajaya? Or Malaysia?  Well, rightfully so.  This is an exotic land that will fill you with wonder and offer you many delightful surprises.

On the island of Borneo you could visit Sabah the “Land Below the Wind” and visit Kota Kinabalu, a starting point for many adventures like white water rafting and river cruising.  A hike to the top of Mt. Kinabalu followed up by a canopy walk at Poring Hot Springs or maybe a dive at the famous Sipadan site might be just what you are seeking.  An excursion to Sepilok to view the Orang Utan sanctuary will be a lifelong memory.

In Sarawak, also in Borneo, you could find Kuching alongside the Sarawak River.  You may be able to observe the canoe races if you’re there at the right time.  Certainly you’ll be able to shop along the waterfront and at the Main Bazaar.  My most memorable experience in Sarawak was a trip up the Batang Ai River to visit with an Iban headhunter chief.  At least they used to be headhunters - hopefully, no more.

Malaysia has many, many more recreational possibilities. Golfing, sailing and fishing are readily available activities, but you might want to be even more adventurous and try a homestay through the Malaysian Homestay program and experience life in a traditional village.  Or, take advantage of Malaysia’s state-of-the- art medical facilities.  You might even join a culinary tour and become part of a cooking workshop conducted in the homes of some of the local chefs.

Shopping in Malaysia is a treat.  From world class shopping centers with fixed prices (and these may be bargain prices based on your currency) to the Central Market filled with great souvenirs, handicrafts and antiques to the sidewalk vendors scattered about that will love to bargain with you.  And don’t forget Chinatown in Kuala Lumpur - lots of great stuff here.

If you’re a fan of Batik fabrics and clothing you’ll want to visit a Batik factory where you can watch a demonstration and then find some terrific bargains.  If pewter is your thing you can’t miss the Royal Selangor factory and Visitor Centre.  After viewing the entire process of making and polishing the pewter   - and you’ll be amazed at some of the hand-crafted design work - there will be plenty of opportunity for you to browse through an enormous showroom where you may want to fill next year’s Christmas list on the spot.

If that’s not enough pewter for you then you can sign up for the Royal Selangor School of Hard Knocks.  Here, for about $16 or so you’ll spend a fun-filled half hour making your own pewter dish.  You’ll get to keep the dish along with the School of Hard Knocks apron and they will award you a certificate for your hand-made treasure.  I didn’t do it, but now wish I had - next time, for sure!

Now let me tell you why I really came back to Malaysia.  I’ve been a race car fan since I was a teenager.  That’s a long time ago.  I lived in a small town in Florida that, before the interstate highway system, was on one of the main paths to Sebring.  I used to watch the MG’s, Austin Healeys, Jaguars and a long list of exotic automobiles go trailing past my front door for a couple of weeks before and after the 12 Hours of Sebring every year.  I was hooked after the first MGTD rolled by.  I was Juan Manuel Fangio’s biggest fan in this little Florida town.  Heck, I may have been the only kid who even knew his name. 

In Kuala Lumpur it would seem that everyone is an F1 fan.  The Formula One Petronas Malaysian Grand Prix at the fabulous Sepang International Circuit is the featured attraction for all of Malaysia in the month of March.  I’m here for the 10th anniversary of this event and it appears that the blood of many Malaysian race fans runs Ferrari Red.

Part of the excitement may be generated by a Malaysian youngster named Jazeman Jaafar.  In 2007 he brought home first place in the Formula BMW Asia Series by winning all 22 races for his team.  Jazeman is 15 and hopes to be driving F1 cars by the time he turns 20.

If you’ve never heard the high-pitched scream of a Formula 1 car at 200 mph you haven’t experienced the best of auto racing.  If you have heard it you know the thrill and excitement that all Malaysia has been gearing up for annually for the past ten years.  And, hopefully, you know to bring ear plugs!  The Army got a lot of my hearing years ago, so I just sit back and enjoy.

You can go to the track on Sunday for the Petronas Malaysia Grand Prix, but if you’re a real fan you may want to go on Friday for the practice and qualifying sessions.  On Saturday there are more practice sessions, but also you’ll get to see some pretty exciting racing.  The first race of both the GP2 Asia and Formula BMW Pacific series will fill your afternoon.  You’ll certainly want to take the Paddock Club Pit Lane Walk.

There are more preliminary races on Sunday morning, but if you’re just arriving for the main F1 race be sure and get there early enough to mingle with the crowds and experience the excitement and anticipation of the big event.  You can have your photo taken with some of the beautiful models, pick up a few of the give-aways, buy your favorite race or team t-shirt, grab a couple of snacks and drinks and find your seat.  You won’t want to miss a minute of the race.

The Grand Prix at Sepang is a major tourist event.  You’re just as likely to hear German or French or Spanish in your hotel as you are to hear English which, incidentally, is widely spoken throughout Malaysia. You’ll never feel stranded here.  Besides speaking English, the people of Malaysia are very friendly and very helpful. The official language is Malay and I would encourage you to learn at least a few of the more common greetings when you arrive. Get a free copy of the Malaysia Travel Guide and there you’ll find lots of helpful information in addition to the basic Malay words you’ll use to let folks know you appreciate their culture and language.

The race may be over, but there are still some things you have to do before you leave KL.  You simply have to stop by the Petronas Twin Towers.  They are spectacular day or night, but you’ll have to go in the daytime to walk the bridge from one to the other at the 41st floor.  Do be sure to see it at night, too.  You’ll see it from all over town, but looking up from the base is dizzying. 

I spent a few hours at the Bird Park and the Butterfly Park. Imagine 2500 birds flying freely in a natural state but all enclosed so you can get up close and really see them.  Don’t forget your camera. 

Take time to visit a mosque.  Remove your shoes and enter quietly if there is no service taking place. They are beautiful buildings and will help further your understanding of another culture.  It should be o.k. to take a photo or two.  But not of the worshipers, please.

And swing by the beautiful new center of government - Putrajaya.  There are lovely gardens, a waterfront promenade and a truly spectacular bridge.  If at all possible, spend at least one night at the Shangri-La Putrajaya.  This is a fabulous hotel with an excellent restaurant.  I stayed here on my last visit to Malaysia and again on this trip, but this time for only one night.  The rest of my stay was at the Parkroyal - very conveniently located in central Kuala Lumpur.  A very pleasant and comfortable hotel.

If you can just squeeze in one more stop before you have to leave let me suggest the Batu Caves just to the North of KL.  Walk past the 140 ft. high statue of Muruga, a Hindu deity and climb the 272 steps to the caves.  Hold on to any food items you may be carrying or the monkeys along the way may grab them from you.  They’re not terribly aggressive, but they’ll certainly enjoy your lunch if you let them.  Once inside you’ll enjoy the enormous cave and see several Hindu temples.  This is the site of the largest Hindu pilgrimage in the world, attracting 1 ½ million pilgrims to its annual festival.  And as you exit you will be rewarded for your long climb with excellent views of the area.

I know you’ll love Malaysia when you visit. If you want to learn about the possibility of becoming an expat or just having a second home in this fabulous place the Malaysian government is ready for you.  Check out the Malaysia My Second Home program.  I’ll provide some info below.

Selamat tinggal.

Keep on Traveling.

When You Go:

Tourism Malaysia: http://www.tourism.gov.my/

Sepang Circuit: http://malaysiangp.com.my/

Pewter: www.royalselangor.com

Batu Caves: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Batu_Caves

Second Home Program: www.mm2h.com.

Story and by Robert Painter: rpainter2006@comcast.net.

 

 


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