The Greatest Story Ever Told

by Carole Kotkin

The stage will be set on Saturday, April 19 at sundown as Jews around the world sit down to a Seder, the ritual dinner that begins the eight day Passover celebration. Amid song and ceremony, family and friends recite a story told for thousands of years about the Jews' Exodus from slavery in Egypt. Everyone around the table participates in what the late theater producer, Joseph Papp called "the longest running show in history." In this never-changing drama, the stage is the dinner table, set with the best china, silver, and crystal.  Six ceremonial foods tell the story of Passover:  matzoh, symbolic of the unleavened bread eaten while crossing the desert; bitter herbs (horseradish), a reminder of slavery; roasted lamb shank, symbolic of the Passover offering; a roasted egg, symbol of the life cycle; haroset (chopped apples, wine and nuts), representing the brick building material used in Egypt; and greens (parsley or celery tops) that symbolize hope.

The youngest child at the table is the star of the celebration as he recites the four traditional questions which begin the telling of the freedom story. The first centuries-old question asks, "Why is this night different from all other nights?"  As the Haggadah (a re-telling of the Exodus) is read four cups of sweet Concord grape wine are consumed, adding to the happy ambience.  A cup of wine is placed on the table for Elijah, the prophet of hope.  At the appropriate moment, the door is opened and all eyes are riveted to the door to see if anyone enters to sip the wine (it will appear to have been sipped by evening's end).  A piece of matzoh--the afikomen--is hidden so children may hunt for it at the end of the meal and receive a prize, a tactic to keep the children attentive during the long Seder meal. There is comfort in this familiar and joyous celebration that gives participants a sense of belonging and an opportunity to make a connection with the past.

PRIVATE

In my family's home the menu and performances were predictable. The feast began with matzoh ball soup accompanied by a debate about whether we liked our matzoh balls light and fluffy or heavy and substantial.  Next, my mother proudly served her rendition of "doctored" up canned gefilte with horseradish.  Uncle Phil would show off by eating a tablespoon of horseradish sandwiched between two small pieces of matzoh without bringing tears to his eyes.  My mother's version of tzimmes (a stew of carrots and sweet potatoes) was served with remarks by my father about the virtue of his mother's tzimmes--he didn't make many points with mom that day. Peppery potato kugel, a house specialty (the secret ingredient was a heaping tablespoon of chicken fat) was served with the main course of braised brisket of beef-still a family favorite. A 12-egg spongecake that lasted throughout the week completed the lengthy banquet. 

The preparation of the Seder presents a challenge to the Passover cook since many foods are not permitted during the holiday. Only matzoh or unleavened bread is eaten and no foods containing leavening are allowed during the entire week of Passover.

As with most Jewish cooking, the recipes are derived from the national cuisines of the countries in which Jews lived, then altered to make them Kosher. Sephardic dishes are derived from Spain, Morocco, Tunisia, Portugal, Turkey, Greece and Egypt while the Ashkenazi flavors come from Russia, Poland, Lithuania, Austria, Germany, Hungary and Rumania.  Sephardic and Ashkenazi Jews have different sets of rules for Passover, but regardless of their origin, Jews have always been very gastronomically inventive when it comes to this holiday:  Flour is replaced by matzoh meal, potato starch and matzo cake flour (finely ground matzo meal) or ground nuts. Many products produced under rabbinical supervision can be found in the supermarket specially labled Kosher for Passover. Before Passover, the whole house is cleaned of any "chametz" (products made with leavening). Devout families use separate sets of dishes, cutlery, and cooking utensils. During the week of Passover everything conceivable is made with matzoh:  cakes, stuffing, omelets, and fish dumplings (gefilte fish).

Family and friends will give this traditional holiday dinner  rave reviews, and since it can all be prepared in advance you can produce it with ease.

Ida's Light as Air Matzoh Balls (Knaidlach)

Makes 16 Matzoh Balls

Here are some hints for perfect light matzoh balls. The mixture will be too loose to shape a ball at the start.  Instead of adding more matzoh meal, refrigerate the mixture and it will firm up. Resist the temptation to lift the cover and peek inside the pot while cooking.  Keep the lid on for at least 30 minutes. For more healthful matzoh balls I have used vegetable oil instead of the usual schmaltz (chicken fat) or solid shortening.

4 eggs
1/2 cup water, chicken broth or seltzer
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup matzoh meal

Beat the eggs until blended.  Stir in the liquid, oil, salt and pepper.  Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.  Bring  2 quarts of water to a gentle boil.  Form the matzoh balls with moistened palms, using about 2 tablespoons for each ball.  Drop one at a time into the boiling water and simmer, covered for about 40 minutes or until they are tender when tested with a toothpick.  Remove the matzoh balls with a slotted spoon and add them to the chicken soup.

Do ahead:  Refrigerate for no longer than two days.  Bring to a simmer and serve. 

Any left over matzoh balls may be sliced and fried to  enjoy the next day.

Rich Golden Chicken Soup                Serves 8 to 10

A stewing hen makes a very flavorful soup and the unpeeled onion will give it good color.

One 4 to 5 pound stewing hen, cut into quarters
2 large onions, halved but not peeled
3 carrots, scraped and cut into large chunks
2 stalks celery cut into large pieces
10 parsley sprigs
20 black peppercorns
2 sprigs dill for garnish

Remove the fat from the cavities of the hen.  Place the hen in a stockpot with 3 to 4 quarts of cold water. The chicken should barely be covered with the water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered, skimming gray colored foam off the surface as it rises.  Add the vegetables, parsley and peppercorns and simmer, partially covered, for two hours. Remove the chicken and vegetables with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Strain the soup.  Season with salt and pepper and a tiny pinch of sugar if the soup tastes acidic.

Do Ahead:  Refrigerate overnight and remove the solidified fat.  Taste again for seasoning and garnish with dill and some of the carrots. The chicken can be served with the soup accompanied by matzoh and horseradish.

Chicken with Dried Fruit

Serves 8

This Sephardic dish is made with a wonderful combination of ginger, cumin and lemon.

2 chickens cut into 8 pieces each (to reduce fat and calories remove the skin)
6 large garlic cloves, finely minced
2 tablespoons fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dried
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup dried figs, remove hard stems, cut in quarters
1-1/2 cups dried apricots
1/4 cup sweet Kosher wine
1 cup pecans, toasted in a 350 degree oven for 10 minutes
Grated zest of 1 lemon

The day before serving,  arrange chicken in a single layer in a large roasting pan. Combine the chicken, garlic, thyme, cumin, ginger, salt, vinegar, oil, apricots and figs in a bowl and mix well. Spoon marinade mixture evenly over the chicken, cover, and marinate overnight in refrigerator, turning chicken occasionally.  Remove roasting pan from refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Sprinkle with the sugar and pour the wine between the pieces.  Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake for 20 minutes.  Remove the foil and bake, basting frequently with the pan juices, about 40 to 50 minutes, until chicken is tender.  Transfer the chicken and fruit to a serving platter using a slotted spoon.  De-fat the pan juices with a fat separater (available in cookware shops). Pour the sauce over the chicken, sprinkle with pecans and lemon zest.

Do-Ahead:  May be prepared 1 day in advance, covered with aluminum foil and re-heated in a 350 degree oven.

Hungarian Hazelnut Chocolate Torte

8 Servings

The mixing of meat and dairy products at a single meal is not allowed in Kosher cooking, but since this torte is not made with any dairy products (as long as pareve or non-dairy margarine is used) it can be served after any type of meal.**INSERT** This is a small very rich European-style cake so cut small slices.**END INSERT**

Matzoh cake meal for dusting pan
4 ounces semisweet chocolate (imported brands are best)
1-3/4 cups hazelnuts or pecans, walnuts, or almonds
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup sugar
1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted margarine or butter at room temperature
3 large eggs, at room temperature

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Grease an 8-inch cake pan. Cut a circle of parchment or waxed paper to fit in bottom and grease paper. Dust with matzoh cake meal, shaking off excess. Melt chocolate in a small pot over hot water or melt in the microwave (covered on a plate) at full power for 2 minutes. Cool. Place hazelnuts on a cookie sheet in a 350 degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes or until their skins have loosened. Remove from oven and rub between towels to remove most of the skins. Place nuts and 2 tablespoons sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.  Pulse on and off until nuts are ground.  Set aside.  Place margarine or butter and 1/2 cup sugar in food processor fitted with metal blade.  Mix until well blended.  Pour in melted chocolate and process until smooth.  Add eggs and mix until blended. Add nuts.  Pour into the prepared cake pan and bake for 25 minutes.  The cake firms up as it cools. Cool on a rack for 20 minutes, invert and remove paper.  When cool pour glaze over cake.

Do Ahead:  The unglazed torte can be kept covered at room temperature for up to 2 days, or it may be frozen for a longer time. The torte can be glazed one day before serving.

Glaze:

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped (imported brands are best)
6 tablespoons margarine or butter
a few drops of lemon juice

Melt chocolate and margarine or butter in a small heavy saucepan, stirring until smooth. Set aside until thickened slightly.  Pour the glaze onto the middle of the cake, tilting the cake so the glaze runs down the sides. Use a knife dipped in hot water to help smooth the sides.

Haroset  (Dried Fruit and Apple Relish)

Makes 4 cups

2 large McIntosh apples, quartered, peeled, and cored
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 cup pitted dates
1/2 cup walnuts
1/2 cup almonds
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 cup sweet Kosher wine

Cover raisins and dates with water and soak overnight. The following day combine all ingredients and mix well.

Do-Ahead:  May be made a day ahead and refrigerated.  Bring to room temperature before serving.

Sweet Potato and Carrot Tzimmes

Serves 8

3 pounds medium-size sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1" dice
1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced
salt to taste
1 cup pitted prunes
1 cup orange juice
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
freshly grated nutmeg
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons margarine or butter

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  In a large baking dish, combine all the ingredients.  Season to taste with salt.  Cover and bake until the vegetables are very soft, 1 to 1-1/2 hours. 

Do Ahead:  Can be made several days ahead, refrigerated and reheated before serving.  Serve hot.

Matzoh Brie (French Toasted Matzoh)

Serves 4

This favorite Passover breakfast treat is either eaten salted and peppered or sugared. My mother made these for breakfasts, not only during Passover, but the rest of the year as well. My husband claims the best matzoh brie has a little crunch to it, so instead of soaking the matzoh in water he simply dips the matzoh in egg and then fries it.

4 matzohs, broken into bite-size pieces
4 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt 
1/4 teaspoon pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter

In a shallow bowl soak the matzoh pieces in water to cover for 10 minutes.  Drain them in a colander and gently press out any liquid.  In a bowl beat 4 large eggs lightly with salt and pepper. Matzoh is bland so a good amount of salt and pepper is needed. In a 10" to 12" skillet heat the butter over moderate heat until it is foamy.  Dip the matzoh into the egg mixture and stir to coat it well. Pour the mixture into the skillet and saute it over moderately high heat for 1 minute per side, or until it is golden. 

To "doctor-up" matzoh:  To brighten the taste of packaged matzoh, dampen the sheets with water on both sides by rubbing wet hands over them. Sprinkle with coarse salt or rub with a cut piece of garlic or onion. Place on a rack in a 375 degree oven for a few minutes, until dry and crisp.  These are delicious with soup.

To make your favorite recipes Kosher for Passover:   Substitute 1/4 cup matzoh cake meal plus 3/4 cup potato starch for 1 cup flour.

Spring Asparagus with Matzoh Topping

Serves 10

The lower ends of asparagus stalks are too tough to eat.  Bend the stalk and it will snap off at the point where it becomes tender.  Break off one stalk, then line the other stalks in a row and cut them at the same point. Tie the stalks in bunches of 8 or 10 so that they may easily be removed from the pot.

2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and tied in bunches
2 hard-cooked eggs, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
1/4 stick margarine or butter
6 tablespoons matzoh meal
juice of 1 lemon

Lower the bundles into a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water and cook for about 7 minutes, or until the spears are tender but not limp.  Transfer the asparagus bundles with tongs to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking. Transfer them with tongs to paper towels, and pat them dry. The asparagus may be prepared two days ahead and kept covered and refrigerated.  Reheat in a microwave oven until heated through. Arrange on a serving dish and sprinkle with chopped eggs and parsley. Melt margarine and cook it until it is lightly browned.  Add matzoh meal and lightly brown.  Pour margarine and matzoh meal over the asparagus.  Sprinkle with lemon juice just before serving. 

Other Passover Articles

• Posh Passover: Where are you eating your Sedar? by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

• The Greatest Story Ever Told by Carole Kotkin

• Passover Palate Pleasers by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

• Celebrate Passover in Israel by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

• Passover recipes by Phyllis Steinberg

• Tradition! by Carole Kotkin

• Kosher Wines for Seder by Darryl Beeson

• You Do Not Have To Be Jewish To Love Israeli Wine by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady