Tallinn Top Ten
by
Caroline Sherwood
Tallinn is the capital of Estonia and this year celebrates its status as
European Capital of Culture. Sandwiched between Latvia to the west and
Russia to the east, the city is only 315 km from St Petersburg and a short
boat trip across the Gulf of Finland to Helsinki.
Oft-invaded, the citizens of Tallinn (whose name even means 'Danish' city)
show an admirable resilience of spirit. Indomitable and courageous in the
face of centuries of past oppression, they welcome visitors to their richly
beautiful capital city with pride.
'Stories of the Seashore' is the theme for 2011. Combining the talents of
writers, musicians, artists and actors, the stories will tell of singing
together, living in the old city and 'dreams and surprises'.
There are so many wonderful things to see and do in Tallinn that it's hard
to select just ten. You may want to visit the Tallinn City Museum for an
overview of Estonia's history and breadth of culture. A note of warning,
though: some museums are closed on Monday.
Here is my own very personal Top Ten:
Tallinn Card
 A must for every newcomer
to the city, and now available online, it offers the choice of 6 hrs, 24
hrs, 48 hrs or 72 hrs of exploration time, including free use of the city's
tram and bus services, bicycle rental, city tours and panorama cruises,
entrance to museums, churches and sights,
walking tours, discounts in spas, shops and restaurants.
Kadriorg Park
  Reminiscent
of the elegance of Versailles, the park contains art museums (including
Peter the Great's baroque
palace), the homes of famous Estonian writers and acres of parkland in which
to take a refreshing stroll. Lydia
Koidula is an iconic Estonian poet whose face (along with that of
writer, A H Tammsaare, featured on the attractive Kroon bank notes,
which were replaced at the
beginning of the year by the Euro). A wooden house, former home of this
revolutionary poetess, can also be seen in the Kadriorg.
A.H. Tammsaare's house
 Anton Hansen Tammsaare
(1878-1940) is the most famous classical Estonian writer, and his picture
featured on the lovely old 25 Kroon banknote (now rendered defunct by the
adoption of the Euro at the beginning of this year). His collected works
fill 33 volumes. 'Truth and Justice' (Tőde
Ja Őigus) is known by all Estonians. Never translated into English, it is a
social epic, spanning Estonian
history, from tsarist province to independent state and weaving in aspects
of the author's own life. Tammsaare's
house in Kadriorg is open to the public and divided between the rooms laid
out as they were when the author lived there and as a museum featuring
photos and records. The Misadventures of the New Satan is his only work
available in English.
Eduard Vilde's house
 Eduard Vilde (1865-1933)
received his house from the government as a 60th birthday present. Its
friendly atmosphere conveys traditional Estonian 1930's comfort. Vilde not
only wrote prolifically, but travelled extensively - unusual for a man of
his time. A map of his journeys across Europe and as far afield as
Constantinople, is displayed in his house beside a towering pile of
his leather suitcases and
trunks. His most well-known novel is The Peasant War in Mahtra which records
an uprising against Russian domination in 1858. This tragic event saw the
death of seven people and a further three died later from their wounds. In
addition, more than 35 of those who
took part were banished to Siberia. It is likely that if Vilde had not
recorded this event, it might never
have reached the history books. Mahtra Peasantry Museum in Juuru in
Rapla County, south east of Tallinn gives a sense of what Estonian peasant
life was like in the 19th century.
Niguliste Kirik (St. Nicholas Church) - La Danse Macabre
  Now
a museum of Mediaeval art, here you can see Bernt Notke's famous painting of
the 'Danse Macabre.' This late
15th century painted wood panel is considered to the finest of its period in
Estonia. It portrays the
visitation of Death to a Preacher, the Pope, and Emperor, Empress, Cardinal
and King. As each expresses terror at death's approach or pleads for an
extension of life, the onlooker is instructed by this visual sermon and the
inscription below: 'Good people, poor and rich, let's look at this picture
now, the old as well as the young, and bear in mind that no man can evade
Death, when he is present as we all can see here. If we have many good deeds
to reflect credit on us, we shall be
united with God. We shall be rewarded for everything. And take my advice,
brothers and sisters - model yourselves on good examples only, don't go
astray, for Death may come quite unexpectedly.'
Woollen Sellers by the Old Town Wall
In winter it drops to -20◦ and you can begin to feel this approaching by
mid-October when the wind begins to take on a cutting edge. Estonians make
an art of their weather by producing a
brilliantly colourful range of knitted and woven hats, scarves,
gloves, coats, shoes and skirts. I brought home a lovely dark navy long
woollen skirt with fringing round the hem and bold
geometric designs in red and white. You can see stall after stall of
knitted goods offered by the sellers who gather along the base of the Old
City wall near the Viru Gates.
National Song Park
 Between 1987 and 1991 mass
peaceful night-singing demonstrations at the Tallinn Song Festival grounds
led to the liberation of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. A film now exists to
record this remarkable expression of national solidarity and peaceful
collaboration for justice and freedom. This
year's Summer Song Festival is being held from 6th to 9th July. This truly
has to be seen or heard to be believed. The grounds hold more than 100,000
spectators and it is a family affair, with everybody celebrating and
picnicking in the open air. The choirs feature as many as 18,000 singers
raising their voices in unison.
Kalev Marzipan Museum Room, Pikk 16
  As
well as numerous gifts made from marzipan, you can also buy Kalev chocolate
here (and under the counter they have
some lovely old sepia postcards of the original Kalev company building,
and some attractive postage stamps). Located in the Maiasmokk café,
locals drop in for coffee served in the elegant surroundings and often
accompanied by a tot of the national Vana Tallinn (a very sweet liqueur made
from rum and flavoured with spices, citrus oil, cinnamon and vanilla). As
well as being good on its
own, it also makes a great topping for ice cream and other desserts!
Balti Jaam Market, Kopli 1
 The suburb of Kopli lies
just outside the walls of the old town. Considered by some to be a dangerous
area, it's actually a very atmospheric locality and, despite their rundown
condition, the houses retain
much of the style of ancient Estonian architecture. In the market just
behind the train station (Balti Jaam), reached by trams 1 or 2, you can mix
with the locals as you rummage for cheap, cheerful and second hand clothes,
cheek by jowl with vegetables and bright traditional
cookware and crockery.
From here you can also catch the 21 bus out to the Open Air Museum
at Rocca al Mare.
Estonian Open Air Museum
 The open air museum records
centuries of Estonian culture and lifestyle. Original buildings, brought
from rural areas across Estonia to be re-sited in the park convey the
simplicity and hardship of daily peasant life. Each dwelling comes with its
own nearby sauna, as well as animal shelters
and other rural outbuildings. The restaurant is fitted out with wooden
benches and offers pea soup made
to a traditional recipe, and barley cake. The shop offers very good quality
handicrafts, food, clothes, postcards and other gifts.
Photo credits:
Tallin Card: Tallinn City Tourist Office & Convention Bureau
Aerial View
of Kadriorg Palace: Toomas Volmer
Lydia Koidula: Pärnu Museum
Tammsaare house: Annika Palvari
Vilde's writing desk: Annika Palvari
Niguliste Church: Inga Jaanson
Danse Macabre: Tallinn City Tourist Office
Woollen goods sellers: Kirsti Eerik
Estonian knitwear: Kirsti Eerik
Wintertime on the outskirts of Tallinn: Pille Runtal
Song & Dance
Festival: Tavi Grepp
Maiasmokk Café: Tallinn City Tourist Office
Marzipan: Tallinn City Tourist Office
Balti Jaam market: Andreas
Meichsner
Folk Dancing at the Estonian Open Air Museum: Toomas Tuul
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