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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display.

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen.

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TravelLady Header

 

Home - Destinations - Special Interest - Search - Editor Bios - Favorites - Kudos - Travel Shop - Feedback - Advertise

 

Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

by Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Categories:  Islands, Beaches, Dauphin Island, Alabama coastal region, Bellingrath Gardens, Mobile Bay, Chef Wesley True, Fort Gaines

Escape to Dauphin Island and the Alabama Coast for an Enchanted Getaway

By Jo Ann Holt

Where do I start in attempting to describe the myriad pleasures to be enjoyed in Dauphin Island, Mobile Bay, and the coastal regions of Alabama?  In an effort not to leave anything out, maybe it’s best to start at the very beginning of my recent October trip to that beautiful  area.

After a short drive from the Mobile airport to Dauphin Island, a barrier island 30 miles south by way of the Gordon Persons Bridge, we met Kathryn Carver, Executive Director of the West Bay and Gulf Coast Tourism Development Council, for a delicious lunch at the locally popular Common Loon Café & Market. 

Chef Adam Alford’s oyster po’ boy sandwiches were gigantic, and his award-winning shrimp gumbo and crab bisque were first-rate, too.  Since I love seafood, it was great to be on Dauphin Island for their Seafood, Science and Celebrity event.

(Sunrise on Dauphin Island)

Checking into the Dauphin Inn, it was a thrill to discover my headquarters would be in a spacious beach-front condo, so I headed immediately to walk on the pristine beach.  Since it was a week day, there weren’t any families enjoying the sun and surf.

 I felt slightly guilty since there wasn’t another soul in sight on the beautiful white sand beach, but decided to pretend it was my private island for the afternoon.  The island is only 14 miles long and 2 miles wide.

(Bellingrath Alabama Cruise)

That evening we visited a famous Alabama tourist destination in nearby Theodore, where we were treated to a reception, a sunset cruise on the Fowl River, and tour of the magnificent 10,500 square foot home, with dinner on the grounds at Bellingrath Gardens.  These gorgeous gardens and palatial 15-room estate are must-see destinations for anyone visiting the Villages South of Mobile.  

Walter Duncan Bellingrath was Mobile’s first Coca-Cola bottler, and in 1917 he bought the riverfront property for a fishing camp.  Bessie Morse Bellingrath, a well-known Mobile gardener, soon started planting some of her famous azaleas and other plants at her husband’s fishing camp. 

(Bellingrath Gardens and home)

In the spring of 1927 they hired George B. Rogers, Mobile’s most prominent architect, to develop the property and their home on the river.  After first opening the property up to the public in 1932 to a great response, the civic-minded couple decided to open the Gardens permanently, charging a small fee to assist in their care and upkeep. 

The Bellingrath Home was completed in 1936, and features all its original furnishings.  Mrs. Bellingrath died in 1943 and Walter D. Bellingrath in 1955, and since the couple had no children Mr. Bellingrath established the Bellingrath-Morse Foundation to maintain the Gardens and Home as a memorial to his wife.  

(Holiday Lights at Bellingrath)

While the 65-acre estate gardens are beautiful year-round, the Holiday Light Display that opens the Friday after Thanksgiving and closes New Year’s Eve has become one of the most popular events in the U.S.  The spectacular display features over 3 million lights in 928 set pieces in 13 scenes throughout the gardens and home.  While Bellingrath’s normal operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., these hours are extended until 9 p.m. throughout the Magic Christmas in Lights display. 

(Dauphin Island)

The next morning I enjoyed another long walk on “my” private beach, although there were a few other people out to enjoy the view and the terrific weather.  I also rode a bicycle for a short distance, but the beach kept calling me back.  For anyone worried about the aftermath of oil spills or hurricanes, the beach at Dauphin Island is absolutely pristine.

After lunch at the Gulf View Grill, next to the Golf Club and managed by the town’s mayor, we toured the Dauphin Island Estuarium and Sea Lab where visitors can examine the wonders of the Mobile Estuary System.  With specimens from the Delta swamps to the busy port of Mobile Bay, and from the sands of Barrier Island to the Gulf of Mexico, Alabama’s Marine Research and Educational Institute was established in 1971 and serves 21 state and private colleges and universities. 

The Estuarium is involved in cutting-edge science to keep the environment healthy and inviting, and Estuarium Manager Robert Dixon was happy to answer our group’s questions.

The 164-acre Audubon Bird Sanctuary also provides a crucial habitat for flora and fauna, especially migratory birds.   The entire island is a bird sanctuary with 347 reported species sighted.

(Fort Gaines)

I had really been looking forward to our next event, a tour of Dauphin Island’s historical Fort Gaines that included a reenactment of the Battle of Mobile Bay and blacksmith demo.  First settled by the French in 1699, the island was named for the heir to the French throne, “Dauphin,” in 1707.

 At that time it was the capitol of the Louisiana Territory, which equaled almost 2/3rds of the U.S.  In 1813 the U.S. seized the territory around Mobile Bay, but the British captured Dauphin Island to use it as a base for their proposed campaign against the city of Mobile— before learning the War of 1812 had already ended.      

That war showed Americans they needed better defenses for their long coastline, and construction of a fort on Dauphin Island began in 1819.  One setback after another kept the army from gaining clear title to the land until 1853, but Chief Engineer Joseph G. Totten designed a completely new fort that incorporated the most advanced ideas in military architecture.  In 1853, Congress named the fort for the late Gen. Edmund Pendleton Gaines.  While most of the fort was completed by 1861, the outbreak of the Civil War left final completion to be handled by the Confederate States of America in 1862. 

Fort Gaines would find fame in the Battle of Mobile May in August of 1864.  Mobile was one of the last open ports accessible by blockade runners supplying the Confederacy, so U. S. Admiral David Farragut assembled a large strike force of soldiers and ships to capture the forts guarding Mobile Bay entrance. 

Over 1,500 troops landed on the Western End of Dauphin Islands, driving the Confederate garrison towards Fort Gaines.  Admiral Farragut’s 14 wooden hulled frigates led by four ironclad monitors planned to run between the guns of the two forts, but Confederate cannons kept up a steady bombardment, sinking the U.S.S. Tecumseh and causing the fleet to falter. 

Farragut’s famous battle cry, “Damn the torpedoes.  Full speed ahead,” eventually caused Fort Gaines to surrender after a valiant defense.  Fort Gaines is now open to visitors seven days a week.

(Chef Wesley True prepares fresh oysters at Cortese home)

That evening we were invited to watch the sun set over Mobile Bay at the gorgeous multi-level home of civic boosters Skip and Lisa Cortese, with Celebrity Chef Wesley True from Mobile creating seafood specialties ranging from a special version of fresh oysters to Royal Red shrimp, pickled shrimp, Asian and barbecued shrimp, plus red snapper served with collard greens and ribs.

 The great food was accompanied by fine wines chosen by his wife and sommelier, Bobbi Heithoff-True, and his delicious fresh food recipes can be found at his popular Mobile restaurants:  True and True Midtown Kitchen. 

(Exploring Bayou onboard Kimberly Dawn)

Sunday morning we boarded the Kimberly Dawn, a retired shrimp boat owned by fourth-generation fishing family Perry and Jan Zirlott, for a short but educational cruise around Bayou La Batre.  As the weather continued to be absolutely beautiful, we were all sad to have to leave this island paradise, but the promise of lunch at Mary Scarcliff’s legendary Lighthouse Bakery cheered everyone up. 

The restaurant, in an old house, lived up to its reputation with homemade breads, lovely salads, Deli sandwiches, teas and pastries.  A quick shopping trip to some local stores such as Mack ‘n dd’s Emporium rounded out our island experience, and allowed me to buy a beautiful necklace created by our hostess of the night before, artist Lisa Cortese.

Several of us opted to spend a night in Mobile to take in the closing night of Bayfest, with performances by headliner Toby Keith and musicians on gospel, R&B and other stages drawing huge crowds downtown.  The highlight of that trip turned out to be breakfast at the Spot of Tea (famous for their Bananas Foster French Toast) in the Lower Dauphin Street Historic Commercial District Monday morning, owned by Tony and Ruby T. Moore. 

Ruby gave us a tour of the 28,000 landmark building, which once housed a neighborhood grocery store.  The Moores took over the brick Georgian edifice in 1994, which has been expanded to include a terrific people-watching spot from their sidewalk café, and they have added an after-five club “Insanity” and the Vegas-style supper club, Ultra Lounge.

Annual events for the area include October Art Trail and the Seafood, Science and Celebrity event, Dauphin Island concert series, Alabama Deep Sea Fishing Rodeo, April Sailboat Regatta, Gumbo cook-off, Blessing of the Fleet at Bayou La Batre in May, Colonial Isle Dauphine and Siege of Fort Charlotte at Fort Gaines, and the Magical Christmas in Lights at Bellingrath Gardens and Home.

 After experiencing the Alabama Gulf Coast’s wonderful attractions, I can’t wait to take my family back with me.  This is a great destination for beach, bird, boat, flora, fauna, or history lovers, and the seafood is incredible too!

                                                            # # #

 www.AlabamaCoast.org

www.bellingrath.org

www.dauphinisland.org

www.theinnatdauphinisland.com

www.dauphinisland.org/fort.htm

www.truedine.com

www.mackndd.com

www.mobilebay.org

www.alabamacoastalconnection.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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NY Theater: “Buffalo Gal” a wry look at going home again, with a nod to “The Cherry Orchard"

by Lucy Komisar

Madame Lyubov Andreievna Ranevskaya returns to Russia from Paris, where her finances have been exhausted by the extravagance of her lover and life style. She is devoted to the family estate, especially the cherry orchard, and wants to save it from a threatening debt. But her estranged lover sends word urging her return to Paris. In the end, she sells the estate to Lopakhin, a family friend, who chops down the trees to clear the land for development.

Fast forward about a century from Anton Chekhov to American playwright A.R. Gurney. With the help of a smooth, light-hearted production by director Mark Lamos, Gurney weaves the Chekhov story into “Buffalo Gal,” an often wry tale of a woman who is drawn to her childhood home but has to deal with economic realities. It’s also about the acting game, those who make it and don’t, and the people and places they leave behind.

Amanda (Susan Sullivan), a once successful TV actress, is in tough financial straits because her video star has fallen, she is divorced, and her adult daughter is bi-polar and in and out of institutions that cost money. She comes home to Buffalo, where she is still big stuff, to star as Ranevskaya in a regional theater production of “The Cherry Orchard.” She hopes it will restart her career. Her presence could also help the local theater; maybe the show will be good enough to go the Broadway, taking the director with it.

Amanda loves Buffalo (also Gurney’s home town), which is enriched by fond memories of her grandmother and her youth.  At the theater, she reconnects with James with whom she went to acting school and who will play her brother, Leonid Andreieveitch Gayev. It’s the 21st century, and a theater company run by a lesbian director such as Jackie (Jennifer Regan) of course practices nontraditional casting. Susan declaims: “The 19th-century land-owning Russian lady just discovers she has a black brother.”

She is pursued by another Buffalo memory, Dan (Mark Blum), who in high school wrote a musical and was her first lover. Now a mild-mannered but dogged dentist, he carries a torch. His wife is threatening to leave him, because she says she can’t compete with his memory of Amanda; he’d like to restart that affair. Perhaps an inside joke on Gurney’s reputation for writing about WASPS, Dan changed his name from Rubens to Robbins -- less Jewish.

Amanda has done theater in the past – even won a Drama Desk award. She has always hated the TV shows she’s appeared on. She says, “When I said I was considering a play, he [her agent] frantically put me up for a stupid sit-com at Fox. …. A character named Granny Sweetpants. Can you believe it? They even stole the name from Li’l Abner…I met the writers - a couple of kids fresh out of kindergarten. They wanted me to wear a gray fright wig and come into a suburban kitchen, and make jokes about Viagra. I said, ‘Thanks but no thanks, gentlemen’.”

Then the call comes from her agent in Hollywood (ie. the estranged lover?) for a TV series. He says “the suits” have met her demands. One actor has already quit to do an airlines commercial in Kuala Lumpur. TV pays big bucks. Will she also follow the money, take the sit-com and ditch the show?

Susan Sullivan, svelte in tight jeans, orange patent high-heeled sandals, matching jacket, is dynamic as Amanda. Mark Blum exudes a sense of nostalgia and loss as Dan. Jennifer Regan makes you feel the director’s angst about the future of the play and her theater group.

Gurney’s clever confluence of “The Cherry Orchard” and his imagined story works well for those familiar with the Chekhov plot. Hollywood is Chekhov’s Paris, and the theater in Buffalo is a stand-in for the cherry orchard. But the theme of connections and loyalty to roots and family is always current. So is the notion that you can’t go home again.

It’s clear where Gurney’s sympathies lie; his voice is Debbie (the comical Carmen H. Herlihy), the director’s assistant. She says, “All theatre has to do with invoking some god. Greek theatre began as a prayer to the god Dionysus. Today our gods are Hollywood celebrities. And so what we’re really doing right now is trying to invoke our own local god, Amanda, hoping she’ll reappear in our sacred space.”

Debbie also from time to time pronounces that we need government funding for the arts. That might require some political magic as powerful as the revolution that Chekhov’s aristocrats didn’t see coming.

“Buffalo Gal.” Written by A.R. Gurney. Directed by Mark Lamos. Starring Mark Blum, Carmen M. Herlihy, Jennifer Regan. Set by Andrew Jackness. Costumes by Candice Donnelly.

Primary Stages at 59E59 Theaters, 59 East 59th St. Tue at 7pm; Wed - Sat at 8pm; Sat at 2pm; plus Wed Aug 13, 20, 27 at 2pm. Through Sept 13, 2008. $60. 212-279-4200. http://www.primarystages.com/.

by James Leynse.

 


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